right, I have always had in every vehicle I have driven a min of 30psi at idle...

Anyway, so I am now prepping for a head change. Called and spoke with various people, Quadratec(sells alabama heads), LkQ, dogde dealer ship(no way 1800 for a head!!!) called clearwater heads.

Probably going with clearwater heads.. there are some mixed reviews but mainly with other head types(v8, ecotech..ect) all their jeep heads are a newer beefier casting but are chinese.... I forgot to ask them about warranty, but will before ordering.

head will run me 450+30 shipping and take 4-5 days. planned on ordering monday.

in the mean time, going to buy a headgasket, another thermostat gasket, headbolts, oil..and pretty much all that good stuff... not really looking forward to pulling the intake/exhaust manifold, heard there a *****!

Which BTW, the hanes manual doesnt specify so Ill ask here.

I will be pulling the rockers and push rods, and need to put the engine to TDC. But I have the coil and not the distributor. whats the best way to set it to TDC... ?

I am wanting to have this thing dissassembled as much as possible so when the new head arrives its slap on and go! this is my DD and cant afford to hitch a ride for long.

 

Upon further research, you're right.

But it should state a normal value. FSM omission. They apparently didn't want any warranty claims.

 

Why are you concernd about putting 'the engine to TDC'?

In any case, you can find #1 TDC by aligning the crankshaft damper timing mark with the zero timing mark on the timing chain cover. (see pic)

Then check to see if #1 or #6 exhaust rocker is depressing the exhaust valve. If #1 is being depressed, rotate the crank 360 degrees and check again. #6 exhaust rocker will now be depressing the #6 exhaust rocker.

Keep all pushrods and rocker sets in order of removal so they can be reinstalled in the proper order.

Alignment marks:

 

well ken, shouldnt the engine be TDC before removing the head? Also probably going to put new lifters in when I do the head, as I dont want to pull it again.

But hanes, chilton and pretty much all my mechanical knowledge tells me to find TDC first...

 

the old time motor flush or a one quart of kerosene added while the engine is warm and let idle for 5 minuets right before changing oil and oil filter has worked for me

 

Don't do this. Kerosene is a poor lubricant.

 

Well, I just showed you how find TDC #1 in my previous post.

Concerning new lifters: If the old ones look good, that is, the cam lobe faces are not concave or are not pitted, they may be good for some time to come yet. If the lifter faces are concave or are pitted/damaged, you can pretty much write off the camshaft as well. Do you really want to look at your lifetrs?

When installing new lifters, apply a liberal amount of assembly grease to the cam lobe faces of the lifters before putting them in. You'll need to break in the new lifters. There are many procedures for break in so I won't go there, suffice it to say you can google it. I think all the cam manufacturers have break in procedures. Crane Cams, Isky Cams, etc.

 

just wanted to do a little update.

I am awaiting my new cylinder head from Clearwater heads so I am on stand by untill its here.

Last night I decided to see how big this crack was. so I got some two part crack checker(made by magna flux called "spot check"

here is what my old head looks like.

Btw, anyone know the size, or maybe even a part number for the exhaust/intake manifold bolts/studs?

Mine are super rusted and I want to replace. thanks.

 

Ohoohoo wow that's dead yup.

As it happens I stumbled across a Dorman kit on RockAuto last night. Go on there and look up exhaust hardware, it's got the bolts, studs, washers and nuts.

 

Thanks salad.

Now I just got to find some 8x.125 bolts because I snapped 3 of the 4 that holds the ac compressor on to the bracket...gotta make a run to town tomorrow, cause no one around here has any long enough.

Word of advice, put some anti seize compound on those bolts!

had to heat the bracket up to get em out, they were a major PITA!!! galvanized bolts into an aluminum bracket what was jeep thinking! lol

 

Oh and by the way, My jeep has 151,xxx miles on it, Im am thinking this was a replacement head too. because after further inspection the head gasket, and intake/exhause gasket are victor renits(spelling) which I am sure jeep didnt use factory.

So either the head had been replaced before, or they blew a H/g but someone defiantly been into the top end before me.

I got new headbolts too. I aint chancing it.

 

another update.

Got the new head on and everything is back to running order. oil pressure is good, seems to be running great again.

A few words of advice when doing a head swap.

I got my head from Clearwater cylinder heads(aka odessa heads). it was $455 shipped to my door and no upfront core charge(you have 30 days to send your old head back with the included shipping label- they cover shipping of the core)

first tip, is do NOT ship your head back to them untill the job is done! just incase.

Second tip- look the new head over REALLY good! On mine the head looked great, but with close inspection there was two rough spots inside the chamber portion. first was inbetween the two valves there was a tad bit of left over casting. this would have caused a hot spot and lead to pre ignition. I lightly and very carefully took a dremel to it and knocked it down. other than that everything was top notch.

third tip- Clearwater heads do NOT come with the two intake manifold alignment dowel pins. so CAREFULLY removed the old ones from your old head they are on the exhaust side. these are very soft metal, I took a pair of channel locks taped them up really good around the jaws and had them out with a little twisting and pulling. they will come out. I still managed to put a few nicks in them so I cleaned them up with a dremel tool making sure to just smooth the nicks.

fourth tip- BUY NEW HEADBOLTS!!! they are $38.85 for a brand new set from autozone. CHEAP INSURRANCE! My old ones were not paint marked, and the head had been into before. just goes to show not every mechanic/diy'er will remember or even think to mark em with paint indicating they have been torque before.

Fifth tip- the A/c compressor bolts are going to most likely break, but dont freak! they will break and leave about an inch of thread hanging out of the bracket(least from research thats the common breaking point) these bolts are sorta tricky to find(least in my small town) they are 4 inchesx8x.125 I took a heat torch and heated the bracket not the remaider of the bolt threads and heated it up pretty good, clamped a pair of vise grips and wiggled them left and right vigorously and they came out. it was not fun, and took some effort so be prepaired. I highly highly suggest putting some copper anti seize on the new bolts before reinstallation!

aside from that, everything is back together and so far I drove 20 miles. no issues other than I still have crappy heat, has now been narrowed down to defiantly being the heater core. YAAY!<insert sarcasm>

Right now we got an ice storm going on but soon as it warms up That will be replaced.


Things I did:

New radiator
new upper and lower radiator hoses
failsafe thermostat-195F
new water pump
new serpentine belt
new valve cover gasket
new injector O rings
new gaskets(felpro headgasket, intake exhaust, and thermostat gasket)
I also bought a new heater core-will install soon
new battery
new spark plugs-trying out these bosch Ir infused seems good so far(yes I know most recommend champion copper...blah! I hate champion plugs!

All in all, it cost about 1300 bucks TOTAL, thats for fluids, tools(fuel line Q/D tools) brake cleaner, antifreeze..ect

one thing I still have to do now, is get an A/c evaporator, and have my A/c system drained for the heater core replacement then will have to have it recharged.