Would you buy a '99 4.0 4x4 140k with intermittent stuttering/misfire ?

About to.

Hey Guys,

New Guy Here. Been searching, reading and learning for about 5 weeks now during my search for my first XJ. Thank you all for the limitless resource of information. You Guys/Gals are GREAT! Smart enough to due research on other newbie's questions before I start askin stuff that's been covered time and time again. Always wanted an XJ, have had many friends with 'em, never owned one myself. Gonna Buy tomorrow... Maybe?

I have personally inspected 16 XJ's now and turned most down, Lost 2 due to price. Finally found one I can afford and seems to fit what I want.

Would like to hear from you "experts out there" Here we go..

Would you buy a '99 4.0 4x4 with an "Intermittent Stutter/Miss" that has had replaced : O2 sensor, battery, alternator, harmonic balancer, serpentine belt and TPS sensor "cheap one from Napa/whatever"... ???

I've read the posts: Don't buy the cheap TPS, Buy the Good one from JEEP, and I plan to. It could very well be the problem still. Also could just need a "tune-up" Plugs "champion", cap, rotor and wire set... Plan on doing that anyway. Maybe it's the "CAT"? Could use some seafoam??? Might just be wrong/bad battery? Worst case scenario New fuel pump?

Am I missing anything here? Should I be scared of this JEEP? What really is the worst case scenario for this issue?

Like I said... would love to hear from the experts.

Just don't want to get Burnt on my first one.

Would be proud to be a "Real Member".

Thanks... Again.

 

whats the price

 

Depends on the price

 

Great Deal in my book. $2500

 

Definitly!!!

 

as long as all the fluids look good, gnab that sucker. sounds like you the runabillity problems will be cheep to fix, if your willing to put in the work yourself.

 

If you have the know-how or the know-who to fix it, absolutely! Remember, it's not what you know, it's who you know, and it's not who you know, it's how you use them.

 

Thanks guys just needed some reassurance... Thought I found a good deal can't wait to post my fixes/solutions and help others like you'all have helped me.

Cheers!!!!

 

Is this XJ in the DFW area? On my phone and can't see your location. If so, I would snag it. If I had the cash I would buy it. Holler if you need any help with it!

 

gpXJ,

I do need help... What do you think about the intermittent stuttering/misfire?

 

So... Thought I had all the bases covered, maybe missing a few. But now i'm finding some real horror stories about valves, cylinder heads, camshafts, complete rebuilds... Are these people being scammed by the shop? Starting to wonder if this is a very serious problem?

Any help here would be much appreciated.

 

On the list of parts that have been replaced, I don't see the ones that I would consider the most likely to cause a miss/stumble. I would replace the plugs, wires cap and rotor. I would also pull the throttle body off and thoroughly clean the throttle body and the IAC.

 

*Champion copper plugs gapped to .035
*New plug wires (don't buy el-cheapo wires)
*New distributor cap and rotor (brass contacts, not aluminum)
*Check/replace air filter
*Bottle of quality fuel system cleaner (Techron, BG44k)
*Check computer to see if there are any "stored" codes to give you clues
*Cleaning of the throttle body and idle air control

For a new-to-you vehicle, I like to run a compression test on all cylinders. A good "snapshot in time" of the internal condition of the engine. The compression spec. for the 4.0 is 120-150, with no more than a 30 psi variation between cylinders.

See where you are at with the miss after the above. Here's more on cleaning the TB and idle air control
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The Idle Air Control (IAC) is mounted on the back of the throttle body. The valve controls the idle speed of the engine by controlling the amount of air flowing through the air control passage. It consists of a stepper motor that moves a pintle shaped plunger in and out of the air control passage. When the valve plunger is moved in, the air control passage flows more air which raises the idle speed. When the valve plunger is moved out, the air control passage flows less air which lowers the idle speed. Over time and miles, the IAC can get carboned up which can have an adverse affect on idle quality. Cleaning the IAC may restore proper function and is an easy procedure to perform and good preventive maintenance so it is never a bad idea.

CLEANING THE JEEP 4.0 IDLE AIR CONTROL

Remove the air filter cover, associated hoses and the rubber boot that goes from the air filter cover to the throttle body. Remove the IAC with a torx driver (2 bolts; one can be kind of hard to get to)

“Gently” wiggle out the IAC from the throttle body. Gasket on the IAC can be re-used if it is not damaged

Clean the IAC with a spray can of throttle body cleaner; inexpensive and available at any place that sells auto parts. Throttle body cleaner is recommended rather than carburetor cleaner as it is less harsh, safe for throttle body coatings and is best for this task. Use cleaner, a rag and a toothbrush and or Q-Tips. Be gentle; don’t twist or pull on the pintle that protrudes from the IAC as it is fragile and you could damage it.

Thoroughly spray clean and flush where the IAC seats in the throttle body with the same spray cleaner

It is also a good idea to clean the entire throttle body itself, the butterfly valve inside of the throttle body and all associated linkage as long as you have things disassembled

Reinstall IAC and check idle quality

 

Thanks TJ,

Fantastic Info.

 

if it was a cheap fix i think the owner would fix it no?