it is going in gear when engine is off and also when i put in in reverse then back up and try to go into 1st it wont let me outta reverse unless i turn it off?

 

Try a drain/refill of the tranny fluid, use SAE 75W-90, API Grade GL-3 gear oil (except, if you have a T5, then it's Dexron automatic tranny fluid). If that doesn't help much, add friction modifiers. If that doesn't help, either, you have pretty much everything ruled out, and your synchros (1st & 2nd, in your case) are bad. A note to reverse gear: Reverse is not synchronized on most manual trannies. I usually shift in any other forward gear, before shifting into reverse, to prevent grinding.
After drain/refill or adding friction modifiers, you need to drive it a bit (a few miles) to feel the effect, until the synchros are fully soaked in oil.

 

Where do you get GL-3 gear oil? I did a fluid drop/refill in my 93 the other day, and I just put what the factory calls for in it (75w90 GL-5), along with some Lucas oil stabilizer. Auto Zone had nothing that was GL-3. Anyway, my transmission was noticeably smoother than it was before.

 

My case isn't near as bad as jeepkid420, just sometime is hard to put into 1st then 2nd and sometimes reverse. But if it's gonna get worse I wanted to know before hand.

So you think that a drain and refill will work?

 

Sounds like either your clutch master or slave is going out. if it's the slave might as well order a whole clutch kit and do it all. I wouldint bother changing the tranny fluid. Thats not the problem unless it ran dry then you might as well get another tranny. I had the same problem. 1rst 2nd and reverse. Replaced the clutch and it was fine after that.

 

It's worth a shot, easy to do and cheaper than a rebuild. I have driven plenty of manual trans cars, ran into the same prob twice, and fixed it once with drain/refill. In all cases, the trans shifted way smoother than before. I would consider a rebuild/replacement the absolute last option ($$$). However, there is the slim chance that the clutch doesn't disconnect properly (be it leaking master/slave, or misadjusted/improperly installed clutch), but then, the problem would occur in all gears, and you hear grinding.

 

the weird thing about it was this morning i drove it down the street and it would go in to 1 nd 2 fine do u think it could be something to do with the hydrolics like a leak in the line or a clog or something?

 

Red Line MT-90 (manual transmission) fluid is rated GL-4, prolly about $12.50 / qt. This should be ok, since they specifically state, that this is recommended for GL-1, GL-3 and GL-4 applications, and lacks the high sulfur content of GL-5 (so it's safe for brass synchros). I wouldn't use GL-5 in an AX5 or AX15, because the high sulfur content will damage the brass synchros. They could have changed that in recent years' Jeeps, but why chance it. You could prolly get GL-3 from the dealer, but it's expensive. All I know is that my '96 manual calls specifically for GL-3.

 

No, you would have that prob in all gears then. Try a fluid change first. It's the easiest and cheapest fix.

 

No haven't noticed any grinding, just hard to put into 1st and from 1st to 2nd, and on occation reverse. Almost have to force it into 1st with clutch all the way down, almost as if it were to 'pop' into first and then the same for 2nd, but reverse just dosn't go, but if I work it into other gears, then it goes right into reverse.

 

Nothing to worry about, regarding reverse. It isn't synchronized in most manual transmissions. I have to do it all the time - shift into a forward gear first (I use 5th), and then reverse. Otherwise, it will grind or be hard to get into. Don't force it too hard into gear, though, that ruins the blocking rings in the process. Sometimes it's easier to get it in 1st, while the car is slightly rolling forward, sometimes it helps shifting into 3rd (or 2nd, 4th) and then into 1st, from a standstill.

 

i recently had very similar issues with mine (ax-15), the syncros were shot. i would deffinately do a fluid change first though, its not hard or expensive and its worth a shot. hope its an easy fix for ya

 

i have seen alot of cars and trucks with that same problem. if u havent figured it out yet i would check ur slave and master cylinders, and check and make sure theres no air in the lines. if u can have someone help u try and bleed the clutch. if none of that works its going to be a bad clutch.

 

if it is the clutch how much does it generally run to get fixed

 

You can get a complete clutch kit (clutch disk, pressure plate, t/o bearing) between $160 and $200 (also, depends on AX5 or AX15, don't know about others). If you have a shop do it, they'll prolly charge around $300 labor, maybe a bit less, 'cause it's comparatively easy on a Jeep.