theangler

I've got a shimmy when I hit speeds around 60+. I havn't looked into it much because I don't go on the highway much, but these things do tend to bother me. Looking it over, I see that both wheels on the driverside (front and back) are missing some wheel weights. I can see the outlines of where they were. The weights don't look very big. Cause of the problem? The shimmy gets pretty bad, and I'm thinking that this is a good place to start. Also, I've noticed that the steering wheel is probably 2-3 inches off to the left when driving straight. Out of alignment? The tire wear looks even. I'm just trying to see my best approach. I think getting the wheels balanced first then an alignment may help. Any opinions?

Thanks again guys, CHEROKEE FORUM ROCKS

theangler

Also, are DIY alignments possible on the XJ? What tools would I need if so. I just hate to pay for it if it's not that hard, and would be worth it in the long run to learn to do. I suspect that wheeling knocks things out of alignment pretty often, and couldn't imagine that you guys pay for alignments everytime you hit the trails hard.

okcjeeper

Yes DIY algnments are possible..You can adjust toe in/out and caster...You can also center your steering wheel.

http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoAlignment.htm

As for the shimmy at 60+ have the tires rebalanced.. Also the steering not being stright won't affect alignment or a shimmy..If you have the tires balanced and it'ss till there then have an alignment done..If shimmy still there then I would start looking at bad TRE's. ball joints, wheel bearing/hub assemblies and axle u-joints.. Another option which is rare would be the stud holes for the tre's on the steering knuckles can be wallered out in which case it's a JY trip for new ones..I have actually seen this happen but it's rare...Behond that now mych else but maybe a bad steering gear box..

COSXJFAN

You know that I consider you a true Okie now!!!

Stormcloud_59

Have the same issue with mine. Finally figured out that there was too much run out in the rims (out of round). The high speed balancer wont fix this. Have your tire store check and if it is the issue you will have to replace the rims.

okcjeeper

Or find a shop that still does it the old fashion way spin the tire watch and ad weight till it runs smooth..Not many guys left that can balance a tire the old fashion way...An out of round rim can be balanced if they know what they are doing..you won't find that at the big box tire shops..they get fancy computer balancers and show kids how to use the machine not how to balance a tire.

okcjeeper

Would you expect anything less..

Nito

I have similar wobble at about 60mph. My problem is isolated to the rear differential. I had two mechanics also say it was possible the U joints are causing it. I had someone pull the cap off the diff and sure enough that was the problem. It wasn't that bad on mine so we just refilled with gear oil and resealed. It has reduce the vibration drastically. If the teeth were more worn it would have been time for a new diff. maybe you should check the diff and the U-joints front and back?

COSXJFAN

BTW, I'm going home to see the fam for T-giving. We're really looking foward to it. I haven't seen them in two years!! Look out "God's Country" here we come!!

okcjeeper

Sweet you plan on being here the whole weekend? We have a big family gig then me and the kids go hunting..

Acarnes00

I had the same problem...and i thought it was going to be a pain to fix...but i recently put on new tires and that fixed my shaking problem

mikdre

Never overlook a torn belt in the tire. i had that problem when i bought my jeep, it would death wobble to the point it would almost roll over at 60mph. (no i am not kidding) they looked over the entire jeep for 2 days and found nothing wrong than someone suggested that and low and behold torn belt was the problem.

theangler

So I didn't look into it too much, since it hasn't been that bad, but this morning on my way to work, I've got BAD shakes. I was on 295 probably going 55 when all of a sudden it started shimmying bad. I dropped it down to probably 35 and it still was, so I pulled off to the side to have a look, and it wobbled the whole way to stop. When I started going again it didn't seem as bad after a minute (I didn't put it up to speed though, probably just 30-35 as I was almost at work). The tires all look good, I don't feel any broken belts, etc. The shocks seem okay as well. Think it could be something like a sticky brake caliper or something? The brakes have been feeling a little bit funky now and then, almost acting like the fronts or rears aren't breaking loose as quickly, so I get a little bit of a jerk, and a sound.

Any help guys?

I basically just need to trouble shoot this down today to see where I'm at. Anything I can check in the front end? How? Could the trackbar have anything to do with this? I had been getting a thunk sound when I turn the wheel when I'm not moving. Some garage said it wasprobably the trackbar.

Thanks again

OverlandZJ

Turn the ignition to the on position.. not start. Lay under the front of the rig and have someone rotate the steering wheel back and forth, slowly then quicker till you see where the slop is. With a clunk while turning you do have something worn/loose. Very well could be trackbar, or a tierod end.

Also check that tierod for straightness, you mentioned the steering wheel is now a few inches off. This is indicative of a bent tierod from hitting a rock etc while wheelin. The steering wheel was centered right?

Grab a jack, raise each front wheel a few inches. Grab a length of pipe etc long enough to put under tire and being able to lift up. Feel/look for play at the balljoints. If worn you should see the outter knuckle move slightly. A severely worn unit bearing would show some slop using this method as well.

Pull the wheels, rotate the disc to see if it's warped and hanging up in the caliper.

If everything checks out... rotate front tires to rear and take for a ride seeing if it continues.

I do my own alignments. Running a 242 transfer set the toe dead straight. With a 231 you want 1/16-1/8 toe in.

theangler

Having recalled that I used my ebrake the night before this started happening (i never use my ebrake), I looked into it a bit. When I release the ebrake, I look underneath and at the junction for the ebrake cables, one releases and the other (pass. rear) does not. The junction goes crooked, and the cable stays frozen. The drivers side cable, I can pull and hear the brake engaging and disengaging, but on the passenger side, I can't pull it at all, frozen stiff. When I jacked the rear end up, I could only turn the wheel about a half a turn with a good push. Cause of the problem? I sprayed some wd40 all over the cables and tried the ebrake a bunch of times to no avail. I assume I'll have to pull the drum off, but we all know how much of a ***** that can be.