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Window switch gives power to motor in 1 direction only

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Old 07-01-2012, 09:54 AM
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Default Window switch gives power to motor in 1 direction only

Hey guys,

My RR window is stuck in the UP position.

1. When using either the driver's switch or the local switch for this window, I get no action at the window (no window movement, no motor spinning).

2. I tested the voltage at the harness for the window motor and I get 12V when the switch is in the UP position and 0 when the switich is in the DOWN position. ( I only tested this with the local switch)

Does this mean I need a new switch?

I plan to connect the motor to the battery before I get a new switch to make sure its not the motor.

I don't believe this is a regulator issue, correct?
Old 07-04-2012, 12:38 PM
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Ok guys,

I reversed the polarity at the wire harness for the window motor (disconnected the harness and crossed the connection using two new wires).

The result was that pressing UP on the switch enabled my window to be rolled down, so I now know its not the motor or regulator and mostly likely the local window switch.

Best place to buy one of these?
Old 07-04-2012, 12:44 PM
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Im having a similar issue on my XJ. I could only get the window down. I did the same thing to get the window back up. Im going to the junk yard to hopefully find that switch.
Old 07-04-2012, 02:21 PM
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You can find them a your local junkyard. I have also seen them on ebay.
Old 07-04-2012, 05:06 PM
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Well,

I went to Autozone and tested out a new switch and achieved the same results, so it has to be a wiring issue.

Both switches will raise the window just fine, and lower it if I reverse polarity at the window motor harness.

Sounds like my switch could not be getting power for its DOWN position.

I guess I will start looking for a broken wire but am not sure where to start.
Old 07-04-2012, 07:40 PM
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From Joe Peters and well stated. Sounds harsh but just makes sense:
"Let’s play a game.

You pretend that you are the only one that knows what year/engine/model, etc that you are asking about.

We will all pretend you never asked a question until you provide at least the bare minimum of information about your vehicle".


What the hell are we working on here?
Old 07-04-2012, 08:31 PM
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Haha I agree with that one and internet forums, Cruiser

I made two assumptions,

1. That the vehicle I am referring to is a Jeep Cherokee since the URL of this website is www.cherokeeforum.com

2. That the title under my name stating "1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport" and some details about my vehicle existing in the "garage" would clarify what year and model of cherokee.

From now on, I will specifically state these details in the first sentence of my inquiries.

I purchased this jeep 3 weeks ago.

It will be my first vehicle to become both mechanically and electrically "enlightened", as I have little experience in automotive repair/maintenance.

Here is my build sheet,

CLIFF NOTES: 1999 sport, 4.0L, AX-15, 4x4, 4 door, 150k miles,

Vehicle Description: JEEP CHEROKEE SPORT UTILITY 4-DR
Model Year: 1999
Body Model: XJ J L 74
Sales Code Description
*M5 Cloth High-Back Bucket Seats
-K5 Camel
ADAP Light Group
ADLP Skid Plate Group
APAS Monotone Paint
ARWP Sport Decor Group
AWE Up Country Suspension Group
AWHP Power Equipment Group
A19P 4.0L Engine(ERH)/5Sp Man Trans(DDQ)
BASS 124 Amp Alternator
BCDS 500 Amp Maintenance Free Battery
BGK 4-Wheel Anti-Lock Brakes
CADP High Back Bucket Seats
CBWP Highline Door Trim Panel
CDBS Reclining Front Seats
CFMS Rear Folding Seat
CGGS Traveling Inboard Seat Belt Buckle
CGWS Next Generation Front Air Bags**
CKAS Carpets - Floor and Cargo Area
CKNS Cargo Compartment Carpet
CKTS Cargo Tie Down Loops
CKXS Midgate Box Access
CLEP Front & Rear Floor Mats
CSAP Spare Tire Cover
CSRS Passenger Assist Handles
CSSS Illuminated Rear Assist Handles
CUFS Full Length Floor Console
DBBC All Manual Transmissions
DDQ 5-Speed Manual Transmission
DHNS Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System
DJHS 230MM Front Axle
DMMP 3.07 Rear Axle Ratio
DRJP 175MM Rear Axle
DSAP Anti-Spin Differential Rear Axle
EAAC All Engines
ERH 4.0L I6 Power Tech Engine
GBBS Tinted Windshield Glass
GCBS Front Door Tinted Glass
GEDS Tinted Rr Drs/Qtr/Liftgate Glass
GFAS Rear Window Defroster
GNAS Rear View Day/Night Mirror
GNCP Sun Visors w/Illum Vanity Mirrors
GTZP Manual Remote Mirrors
GVBC All Vehicles W/Power Mirrors
GXMP Remote Keyless Entry
HAAP Air Conditioning
HGDS Deluxe Insulation Group
JAYP Instrument Cluster w/Tach
JBFP Instrument Panel Black Bezel
JCDS 100 MPH Primary Speedometer
JHAS Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers
JHBP Rear Window Wiper/Washer
JJBS Dual Note Electric Horns
JJJS 12V Auxiliary Power Outlet
JPAP Power Windows
JPBP Power Locks
KDPS STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING COLOR
KGPS STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR
KRPS STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING COLOR
KTPS STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR
KVPP STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR
KYPP STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR
K2ZP STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR
K3GS STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR
LAJS Headlamps On Warning Chimes
LAPP Shift Indicator Warning Lamp
LBBP Courtesy Lamps
LCDP Map/Dome Reading Lamps
LDAP Underhood Lamp
LDBP Cargo Compartment Lamp
LHDP Headlamp Off Time Delay
LMAS Halogen Headlamps
LNJ Fog Lamps
LPSS CHMSL Lamp
MBKP Carbon Front Brake Duct Bezels
MBLP Body Color Front Bumper
MBSP Carbon Front Splitter
MBTP Body Color Rear Bumper
MCAS Carbon Rear Diffuser w/o Strakes
MDAP Front License Plate Bracket
MFBP Body Color Headlamp Bezels
MFKP Body Color Grille
MHAS Black Windshield Moldings
MMCS Rear Qtr Solid Window Insert
MMGS Belt Moldings
MMKS Body Color Drip Trough Molding
MNAS Black Door Handles
MNNP Body Color License Plate Brow
MWGP Roof Rack
NAEP California Emissions
NBKS EVAP Control System
NBN Northeastern States Tracking
NBTP Transitory Low Emission Veh (TLEV)
NFAS 20 Gallon Fuel Tank
NHM Speed Control
NMCP Heavy Duty Engine Cooling
PG8 Forest Green Pearl Coat
QG8S Forest Green Pearl Coat
RAAC All Radio Equipped Vehicles
RASP AM/FM Cassette Radio
RCRP 4 Speakers
RDDP Fixed Long Mast Antenna
SBAS Power Rack and Pinion Steering
SCGP Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel
SDUP Heavy Duty Suspension w/Gas Shocks
SHAS Front Stabilizer Bar
SH8P Delete Rear Stabilizer Bar
SUAP Tilt Steering Column
TBBP Full Size Spare Tire
TBLS Inside Mounted Spare Tire
TRLP P225/75R15 Wrangler RT/S AT Tires
TZAP Goodyear Brand Tires
WJW 15X7.0 Aluminum "Ecco" Wheels
WKBP Matching Spare Wheel
WLZC All Aluminum Wheels
XCYS Delete Remote Start System
XEAP Tow Hooks
XEEP Fuel Tank Skid Plate Shield
XEFP Transfer Case Skid Plate Shield
XEUP Front Suspension Skid Plate
XJFS Tethered Fuel Filler Cap
XPFS Protective Coating and Remover
YAAS Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications

What else can I provide to clarify what we are working on here?

Last edited by MirageMobile; 07-04-2012 at 08:33 PM.
Old 07-05-2012, 12:05 AM
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Current status:

1. Activating the local window switch supplies 12V in the UP position and 0V in the DOWN position (measured at the window motor harness)

2. Activating the driver's switch for the window of interest (rear right) supplies 0V in both the UP and DOWN position.
Old 07-05-2012, 10:42 AM
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You're dead on - it's definitely a wire.

I had the exact same problem with my rear passenger door, I reversed polarity and everything just like you did so I knew the regulator worked in both directions.

Turns out it was a broken wire in the driver's door boot. I repaired the wire and now it works perfectly.

If I remember right it was a dark green wire - but don't quote me on that. I've also recently repaired my door speaker wires so I could be mistaken.

So yeah, check the wiring in that boot. I can almost guarantee that's your problem.

Last edited by 77olds; 07-05-2012 at 10:58 AM.
Old 07-05-2012, 12:36 PM
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On my 94 all power comes from the drivers side power windows box. The lock out switch opens the circuit so none of them get power.
Also ground wire for the power windows runs underneath the carpet in the front and mine was so worn off that the wires were cut (open circuit to all other switches, I could move them up and down from drivers front switches).
I had to replace all the wires in the area where they go from the door to the Jeep. Opening and closing the door bends them a little every time and they will break. You can try holding the switches and closing and opening the door to see if it does anything. Those wires in the sleeve from door to body where already fixed with butt connectors 3 times in my Jeep (OEM wire-connecor-wire-connector-wire-connector-OEM wiring). It all fell apart when I took the sleeve off so I cut the bad wiring 1 at the time and soldered in new piece of wire between door and body for each one.
I can post wiring schematic for a 94 later. A 99 might be different.
Old 07-06-2012, 01:42 AM
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With the help of some wiring diagrams, I was able to solve the problem.

the front drivers door had atleast 3 "repairs" by the previous owner, so I went in and fixed those properly.

The rear right power window wire had fallen back into the door/kick panel and was located and patched as well.

Sorry for all the posts guys, I just found it useful for me to use as a journal to track my progress for fixing this issue.

Now onto the front speakers!
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