I also can only control the windows from the driver’s door controls in my 1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ Sport. Jumpering the 2 wires seems easy enough and will get you back up in running, however, if you have kids who like playing with switches, the child lockout is a must.

I've spent some time doing research trying to figure out a DIY fix, but never had any luck besides spending $60+ for an entirely new switch assembly. That is until tonight! Here is what I did:

1. Remove the driver's door panel.

2. Looking at the wiring diagram I figured out you should have continuity between 2 posts (bottom row & 4th post from the left on both connectors) when the lockout button is in the out position. This allows power to flow to the power window switches in all but the driver’s door. I had an open circuit, so I decided to tear into it further. These are the same terminals the tan and yellow wires are connected at.

3. Next remove the 3 screw holding the switch assembly to the door panel.

4. Reluctantly I pried off the 4 window switches, child lockout button and door lock switch. I figured, if it broke, I'd buy a new assembly. Luckily all the buttons came off without breaking! I'd recommend prying the switch evenly on both sides (inline with the pivoting point) to avoid damaging the clear plastic light tab of each switch.

5. Next remove the six screws from the back of the assembly and pry the plastic tabs apart around the back of the assembly to separate the front from the back.

6. Look at the 2 solder connections on the circuit board forward of the child lockout switch. Both solder connections on mine were bad.

7. Reheat and add solder as needed.

8. Since you have the assembly taken apart, take a really good look at all of the visible solder connections and repair as needed.

9. Also, take the time to clean all of the switch contacts. You can do this easily with a can of contact cleaner and it does not require taking any switches apart.

10. Once you have it cleaned up and the solder has cooled, check for continuity between the connectors on the back of the assembly ensuring the lockout button is in the out position.

11. Reassemble case halves and secure with 6 screws.

12. Reinstall 4 window switches, child lockout button and door lock switch.

13. I then temp installed the assembly in the door by connecting the 2 connectors and performing an operational check of all the switches on the driver’s door and then the power window switch at each door.

14. Reinstall switch assembly in door panel and secure with 3 screws previously removed.

15. Connect 2 connectors and reinstall door panel.

I am hoping this will be a good fix and will last for years to come!

If you would like more pictures with better detail, please send me a message with your email address.

Thanks man.
Followed your steps and worked great.
Touched both solder points with an iron and all windows are controllable by the passengers again.

worked like a charm!! thanks fellas!

Thank you everyone for all the awesome info in this thread! My 99 just started doing this and I REALLY HATE taking doors apart so this is pure gold to me. Although now I wonder if the only reason my dog hasn't put his window the rest of the way down and tried to fly is because the switch doesn't work... I'll have to have a talk with him...

I fixed mine this way, but it's starting to act up again.... Grrrrr

Anybody else had these issues?

I did this a few weeks ago. no issues and I'm very happy with it. I suppose if you absolutely need the window lock switch, you could just mount a toggle switch down by the wiring. I'm fine just bypassing it altogether.

My problems are coming from the switch not operating my passenger window, along with all other switches not operating there respected windows on that door...

It cuts in and out.... And I just don't feel like taking the door panel back off until in ready to try and solder in some blue LED's!

I would investigate the junction under the drivers feet. On my 1993 the connection was just green dust (corroded copper). The single wire from the override switch in the door provides the power to all of the other doors. I think I just had to remove the door sill (plastic, a few screws) and the cover at your feet and then fold over the carpet and backing.

My $6 fix. Couldn't find any broken wires or terminal connections. Also have a "newer" used switch panel on the drivers and front passenger doors. No risk of fire here!!

Another option;

Fix Jeep Cherokee Power Window Issue - The RIGHT Way! 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 - YouTube

Fix Jeep Cherokee Power Window Issue - The RIGHT Way! 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 - YouTube

Here is the repair for my '93. Note 'repair' vs 'fix'. The power to the other windows comes from the drivers side. One wire branches into 3 to supply the other windows. The branch is under the carpet below the drivers feet. Remove the door sill to allow access under the carpet. My repair was to splice at two places to move the junction to 'higer ground'. Splice a new piece of copper wire nearer the door sill, and move the junction to the side of the transmission tunnel.


https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/win...9/#post2587017

You might want to check the wires feeding thru your drivers or passenger doors;

://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6duT8frejE

You dont know how much time this saved me chasing down wires. did this on my 2001. i tested first then totally removed the connector. connected the black ends in one wire connector and all 4 ends of the tan in yellow in another. works perfect. again, no longer have the lock switch with this method. thanks again

I just wated to know if it's safe to do the paperclip bypass method.

What is the white connector on the red wire he added here? Can you just use the t-taps and a wire without that?

Referring to the picture on post #129