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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 09:55 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Xj88
It can...are you leaking from a hose maybe
You forgot XJ88 ansered that a bad head gasket does not necessarily cause bad idling. Did you check the plugs yet? Sorry to say, you probably need a head gasket. And you certainly can DYI and save a lot o $$$.

Last edited by tgordon; Aug 7, 2012 at 10:01 AM.
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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 10:10 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by copicatt
Can someone confirm that it could be the head gasket and not affect idle?
Actually water injection is done on purpose on some rare and experimental engines. It serves the same purpose as a higher octane rating. I'm unclear on the details, but I'm sure it's true!

Some engines circulate water in the intake manifold, and could loose coolant and steam that way, with something cracked or leaking. The 4.0 isn't one of them.

My .02 on your earlier question...if it's not overheating and the oil pressure is OK, I suppose I would run it a bit myself. Without knowing when it might get worse I probably wouldn't take off on a long trip. If it DOES get hot shut her down! "I was almost home" is not a good reason to ruin an engine. I like Radi's idea of taking a look at the plugs. I'd go ahead and do a compression test as long as they were out myself.

Last edited by DFlintstone; Aug 7, 2012 at 10:18 AM.
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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 10:21 AM
  #18  
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1. It got so hot it shut itself off. Excessive friction. Cooked oil.

2. Unexplained coolant loss.

3. White smoke at startup from tailpipe.

4. Higher than normal temperature when running.

You have, at the very least and best case scenario, a blown head gasket into the cooling system.

It could get worse with warped/cracked head and scored bearings.

Incidentally, your ticking is probably coming from worn lifters down in the block.

Probably shouldn't drive it anymore until the head comes off and you can begin to see what has happened.

I'm sorry.
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 08:41 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by tgordon
You forgot XJ88 ansered that a bad head gasket does not necessarily cause bad idling. Did you check the plugs yet? Sorry to say, you probably need a head gasket. And you certainly can DYI and save a lot o $$$.
Sorry didnt see that.

Didnt get to check plugs yesterday, but will get to it today along with compression test......but im sure it is at least a head gasket. Will report back.
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 04:36 PM
  #20  
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Alright guys, parked it in the barn this morning, was going to do the compression test, but didn't have the right adapter. had the day off, so i took the dive. 4 hours later, the head is on the bench.

#1 Head gasket looks fine, don't see anywhere it is blown out.
Attached Thumbnails white smoke-2012-08-08_15-46-15_708.jpg   white smoke-2012-08-08_15-16-37_805.jpg  
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 04:37 PM
  #21  
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the second pic is in the water port on the rear of the head. kind a like a silicone o ring only larger. there another piece up in there.....what is it?
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 04:39 PM
  #22  
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plugs
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 05:33 PM
  #23  
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looky here:

Cyl. #4
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 07:21 PM
  #24  
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You found your problem.

Have you noticed any difference in oil pressure? (if you have a gauge).

If oil pressure has gone down, you might want to consider a different engine as coolant in oil can toast engine bearings in pretty short order. If your oil pressure has remained about the same, install the new head, perform a couple of back-to-back oil changes (at least 2) to get any residual coolant out of the oil and hope for the best.

Last edited by tjwalker; Aug 8, 2012 at 07:24 PM.
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 07:37 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by copicatt
looky here:

Cyl. #4
Yep. My '92 was cracked like that on #4 and 5.

P.O. was a college kid with no money or sense. Had a leaky radiator and let it run dry several times.

I could fill up a book with all the things I have fixed on it.

I could fill up Fort Knox with all the money I've spent on it.
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 08:15 PM
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There is a whole spectrum depending on your $ and the time and risk, and your own ability. If you grab a JY head, set it on it's side, pour kerosene, diesel, or cleaning solvent into the ports, and watch the leakage at the valves, it might be just be slowly soaking evenly. A flat edge and a feeler gauge can check warpage. I might accept .05, even .06. Under .04 is better. Booger is if you surface it you might as well pull it apart and do the whole mary-anne. Just rambleing. Just my .02...

(once you start grinding, sanding anything, you gotta pull it all apart to clean it)

Last edited by DFlintstone; Aug 8, 2012 at 08:18 PM.
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 08:52 PM
  #27  
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The plugs did reveal a little. Cyl 4 was different than the others. 1-6 is left to right in the pic.

I'm just gonna go ahead and replace the head. What do y'all think about a rebuilt one?

There was no water in the oil. It was not milky at all and the level was spot on. The engine was actually pretty quiet with the belt off. So hoping the it's all fine down there. On another note, the engine wasn't sludgy at all up top. Nice and clean. Hopefully it was burning up as soon as it hit the cylinder.

Thanks for the help!! I had never pulled a head before now. Took about 4 1/2 hours.
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 08:59 PM
  #28  
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oh, and oil pressure has been holding fine.
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 05:04 AM
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Originally Posted by copicatt
oh, and oil pressure has been holding fine.
A rebuilt head should be fine assuming it's a good rebuilder.
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