Morning all!

Quick question. I got my wheel studs in for my rear disc swap. I ordered Wagner front studs to use on the rear axles sense I need longer than stock.

Anyways, I got the studs and they are like... black coated. It isn't rust, and I cleaned them off thoroughly. The best way I can describe it is like the hex-cap bolts you buy at the hardware store that are black in the package.

I also noticed these studs needed a bit of table-lug running to I guess even out this coating on the threads. They all take the lug fine and have no stripped it or themselves (and I can get them all on by hand), but a few of them did need a little bit more grunt. Afterwards though, they all went on relatively fine.

Cause of concern here? I'm just used to the stainless studs I've gotten from Advanced (ordered Wagner from Rockauto for like $0.52 a piece!). If they're stronger, then good deal.

Also, side question. If an ebrake cable is somehow caught up inside the sleeve or whatever it's called (basically seized), is there anyway to relieve it? PB blaster down the casing, ram rod, etc? I'm on a bit of a budget at this time and need to reuse what I have.

Thanks!

 

I'm pretty sure it's just standard protective coating to prevent rust. If your lugs screw on fine and they are long enough, and you can hammer them into your axle shaft, I wouldn't be concerned.

Do you have the cable removed? Are you planning on modding the stock cables for your disc conversion? Try the PB blaster, or maybe even some thin-weight all-purpose oil (maybe even Rem Oil, if you're into guns)

You may be able to cut some notches in it to get the oil in there, and then seal the notches up with something to keep crud out.

 

Good deal! I'll give that a shot. And yes I will be modding the stock cables for the discs. Thanks!

 

Yeah that black coating is some kind of thick oil from processing. You'll find it on a lot of ISO Class 10.9 hardware. It's not worth anything in terms of corrosion prevention.

Check the knurled section on those carefully. I had a few brand ZJ studs and the knurling length stuck out into the rotor. Very annoying.

 

I'll def check that! Thank you!

Another question. The pinion shaft bolt: does in need blue thread lock on it when I reinstall the axle shafts?

 

That is a good question - probably. I just left the thread locker that was already on there.

 

I did my rear disc conversion over a year ago & I didn't use anything other than the Lock Tight that was already on the bolt.

 

I used blue loctite on mine. Good insurance. I don't think there was any left on mine after I torched the hell out of it.

 

o.O torched your center pin? It's been sitting in oil it's whole life. I've never had any that didn't come out after a little persuasion with The Wammer

 

X2 the little 1/4" box end was enough for me. A bit snug, but didn't need much.

 

The problem was that I wasn't using a 6 point wrench! As soon as I picked up a 5/16" 6-point it came right out.

 

an old farmers trick with seized cables is to hook up jumper cables from a battery to each end of the cable. it will heat up the cable all the way through the housing and should free it up.