i think you have this backwards the ones with the studs attached also have hub centric rings built in so they stay centered and run true. the universal one do not and will cause drive line vibs because that wheel will not stay centered on the hub.

 

I'm definetley going for the spacers with the studs that are pre installed, and also utilize the studs on my existing axles. I found place with them for around $70 per spacer.

 

Good point a1, I hadn't looked at it that way. I didn't think the hubs centered the wheel, I thought that was the studs that kept it true/ centered. But the issue I'd fear with the spacer w/ pressed in studs is that there's more items you could break. But if they have the correct lug pattern spacing, and are billet machined so they "should" be dead accurate, would they cause that many problems? I'm no expert so if I'm wrong feel free to correct me.

 

the studs and nut do center it but the spacer can throw it off some and the ones with the integrated studs do have more room to fail. that is why i ditched the idea and went with some new steel wheels when i needed more offset. just less chance for an issue

 

Can't beat that logic

 

Sp the wheel spacers and bump stop extensions are a must.

So... next question. Shims or tranfer case drop kit?

Shims are more work to install right? But the transfer case drop kit will lower my ground clearence, possibly stressing the motor mounts. Will this limit my skid plate options in the future?

While I am installing the shackles, should I also install coil spacers as well? Then I will need to get a new trackbar as well as re-alignment right? Probably not going to do the spacer option.

 

I'd go with shims, then do a TC drop if necessary. I'd go with both spacers and the shackles so it sits even. You COULD re-drill the trackbar mounting hole to help adjust how far the axel kicks out. Depending on how much more lift you get out of the shackles you may need to go the SYE route.

 

man with all the ideas you guys are kicking out to this guy, It seems it may be cheaper to go with a whole new lift kit. Haha. a solid 5" with trimmed fenders and tube style control arms will do the trick just fine. So if you already have a 3.5 why not try a adding a BB on top of that lift and swapping out to tubed control arms and call it a day. Might be cheaper. Do the math.

 

Just picked up some front wheel spacers, transfer case drop kit, extended front brake lines and I already got some JKS/Currie shackles.

I will fab up some bump stop extensions as somebody else suggested. I will let you guys know how it turns out. I think my rubbing issues should be solved now.

 

Thanks for the input guys! I just got back from some wheeling tonight.

Earlier today I used some 2x2" tubing and extended my bump stops. The combination of bump stop extensions and wheel spacers fixed all of my rubbing issues.

Now I have new problems... The 1" Shackles and .75" coil spacers are definetley causing a driveline vibration now. I bought a transfer case drop kit but haven't had the chance to install it yet, so that may solve my issues.

Another weird thing I noticed is when going up steep climbs in 4Low, I get a "whoam whoam whoam" sound that seems to come from the front left. I actually heard this before adding the coild spacers or shackles today.

I'm wondering if it is the U Joints, Pinion or Wheel Bearings...

 

I'm a little late catching this thread but I'm in the same situation. I have 267/75's on stock Icon wheels. My rear tire is about 1/4" from touching the leaf springs but no biggie. They tuck into the fender nicely. Up front the tires rub on my RC control arms but the arms are tubular so it's not hurting the tire and I'm not gonna fix that. I have no cutting or trimming done and I do not rub on any fenders. I'm at 4" of lift but I keep my front sway bar connected so that's why I don't rub. I'm curious of how your jeep looks with just front spacers and what brand did you buy? I was gonna space all four of my wheels out an inch and then bumpstop the rear so it stops right at the fender but wanted to see what yours looks like first to see if it's noticeable or not.

Can you post a picture or two?

 

I can post some pictures later today, no problem. I used the Spidertrax 1.5" spacers in the front and now there is no rubbing of the lower control arms.

I didn't use any spacers in the rear so the tires would tuck still. The extended bump stops is a must.

 

Here you go Mudd... Sorry it took so long to post.

With spacers...



Without...

 

Ahh thanks man. That'll get me in trouble here in PA. They stick out too far

 

looks good why not a 1.25 for the front though. and time to cut more and do the rear