Pretty bad when the most outstanding feature of an oil filter is on the outside----The bedliner grippy crap they spray over the orange.

 

Yes it had oil in it BUT it was only 1/2 full if mounted horizontal. Think about it,there is NO drainback valve on the outlet side of the filter (the threaded hole) oil will drain out of this outlet until the oil level drops below the outlet.
The real purpose of the anti drainback valve is to prevent oil on the dirty side of the filter from draining back to the pump and into the oilpan....in other words it keeps oil in the pump so the pump does not have to re-prime itself. A better terminology would be a anti-syphon valve.
A anti-drainback valve is needed regardless of whether the filter is vertical or horizontal. The only time it would not be needed was if the filter was mounted LOWER than the oil pump.

 

I like my over sized Mobil 1 and mopar filters. It's true, fram may work with other vehicles but even other forum will say how they don't work well on our 4.0s.

 

Do you use fram filters on your Jeep?

 

I have had them blow up/rupture on my hot small/big block chevys have not run them since the 80s. I run a motorcraft or wix on my 7.3 diesel and a fl1a or the wix equivilant on my 302s and 2.3 turbo. I ran mobile 1 on my scion and like to use there filter also. I have run the amsoil filter too.

 

You are right that there is no drainback valve on the outlet of the filter, but the drainback valve that is present creates negative pressure which holds the oil in the filter.

 

You are half right. The valve creates negative pressure on the INLET side of the filter preventing the oil in the galley from the pump to the filter from draining back. There is nothing on the outlet side of the filter to prevent the oil from escaping back into the engine. Think of the drainback valve as a check valve...it only works in one direction. Now IF the drain-back/check-valve was on the OUTLET side of the filter your theory of negative pressure would be correct.

 

Do you use Fram oil filters on your vehicles? Have you viewed the video in post #8?

 

After the oil filter, there is a gallery bored into the block that runs to the top of the main bearings. The same seal that prevents the oil pump draining out also keeps this gallery at least partially primed. The mass of the oil trying to drain out towards the pump will force the ABDV to operate like a check valve, but the resulting vacuum from that oil unable to move should also prevent any drainage higher up. A quality ABDV is essential to getting oil to the main bearings and cam shaft as soon as the crank starts spinning.

 

Thanks for the good info. Looks like I'll be ordering a Wix soon.

 

Fram tough guard. there was a huge write up about them and an actual jeep guy like you and me got to go to there R&D and they put those tough guards through alot. i cannot speak for the regular ones though.

 

Your Renix rattles because of a loose valvetrain, due to normal wear.

It is not adjustable.

It sounds terrible but it won't hurt it.

My '87 4.0 does the same thing, and has for at least the last 40,000 miles. Original engine has about 216,000 miles on it now.

I use Mobil 1 10W-30 and a Wix filter.

 

Pur-o-lator hands down. Simple as that. If you really want to learn buy a few and open them up.

 

Did you watch the video in post #8?

Somehow I can't support a company that knowingly produced an inferior product for many years, that damaged numerous consumers' engines, still hasn't changed the original design, but now comes up with a more expensive, supposedly better filter for you.

Wix made one that met oe exceeded specs all along. I'm sure some others did also.

 

I've had a lot of success with both wix and mopar