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What would you have done first?

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Old 07-05-2013, 09:53 PM
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Default What would you have done first?

I've always been one to do my research and learn from those who are obviously more experienced. I wrecked my F150 and am looking to get a Jeep at the beginning of August.

I want to know what all y'all Jeep Veterans would've done first or differently so I can avoid making some of the same mistakes and maybe save myself the time, hassle, and money of dealing with them.

Anything that you would recommend, advice you may have, or tips would be greatly appreciated.
Old 07-05-2013, 10:15 PM
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91-99
Little to no rust
Do everything right the first time
That's about all
Old 07-05-2013, 10:18 PM
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I think its like most cars, give a test drive, make sure everything or at least most things works. Check 4wd and for rust especially. Stuff is reasonably priced for these things compared to what I am use to.
Old 07-05-2013, 10:24 PM
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Get the very best Jeep you can afford. Don't buy a cheap beater figuring you can fix it up for little to nothing.
Old 07-05-2013, 10:51 PM
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#1 Jeep Enemy is rust. Avoid it like the plauge.

Of course, being a Jeep, it will probably be rusty. Make fixing it your top priority or you won't have anything left to mod lol. Everything else is secondary. Remember, its a uni-frame. Everything else is replaceable.
Old 07-05-2013, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by salad
#1 Jeep Enemy is rust.
And #2 and #3.
Look underneath thoroughly.
Old 07-06-2013, 12:04 AM
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So far I wouldn't have done anything differently if I could do it again. I'm happy with how my build is coming along.
Do it right the first time is about the best advice I can offer. Dont cheap out on the important things.
Old 07-06-2013, 12:29 AM
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Avoid one with janky wiring, and avoid one that has been lifted already. Clean, rust free, bone stock, and mileage under 150k. 92-01 will work great, 87-91 are ok, 84-86 is a no go.
Old 07-06-2013, 03:50 AM
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Avoid all above but mostly one that are warmed up and ready to drive when you get there.good sign of starting issues .Let it run while checking it out after complete warm up test drive. Check for oil leaks tranny leaks check all lights for proper operation 4wd operation after all above see if radio works ...Also be leary of a lot of new parts good sign of issues trying to be corrected by throwing all kinds a parts at it the selling headache to some one else.
Old 07-06-2013, 11:00 AM
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If one were to take what everyone here has said and use that information to buy a jeep they would definitely get a really reliable vehicle.... my two cents is stay away from a 2000 and 2001 unless they can show you paper work that says a replacement head has been put on there, a clear water head or from another trusted source, another 0331 head is not a good fix unless it has tupy stamped on it... id have a good lift and tires on my rig if i would have been given the same information.. btw the 2000 2001 have a weak spot in the cylinder head that is why most will tell you to stay away from them and is what im referring to in the above info.
Old 07-06-2013, 11:15 AM
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I have a lot of 2000-01 XJs in the fleet I work on. I've only had one crack a cylinder head. These are fleet vehicles that only have idiot lights, no gauges, and they are driven by idiots. Don't let the 0331 head be a deal breaker if you find a clean rust free low mileage rig.
Old 07-06-2013, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by JeepsMyName
If one were to take what everyone here has said and use that information to buy a jeep they would definitely get a really reliable vehicle.... my two cents is stay away from a 2000 and 2001 unless they can show you paper work that says a replacement head has been put on there, a clear water head or from another trusted source, another 0331 head is not a good fix unless it has tupy stamped on it... id have a good lift and tires on my rig if i would have been given the same information.. btw the 2000 2001 have a weak spot in the cylinder head that is why most will tell you to stay away from them and is what im referring to in the above info.
Ideally I'm looking for a 97-99 XJ but I'll take anything that has the right price and best condition. How much would it be to replace the head? If I find an 00 or 01 I'd probably end up replacing the head just to avoid it cracking down the line.

Originally Posted by freegdr
Avoid all above but mostly one that are warmed up and ready to drive when you get there.good sign of starting issues .Let it run while checking it out after complete warm up test drive. Check for oil leaks tranny leaks check all lights for proper operation 4wd operation after all above see if radio works ...Also be leary of a lot of new parts good sign of issues trying to be corrected by throwing all kinds a parts at it the selling headache to some one else.
So what you're saying is if it's started and warm when I get there that's a sign of some starting issues? So start it up, look things over and then drive it?

Also if you were buying a new (to you) Jeep, what would be your checklist of things to go over?

Originally Posted by Bustedback
Avoid one with janky wiring, and avoid one that has been lifted already. Clean, rust free, bone stock, and mileage under 150k. 92-01 will work great, 87-91 are ok, 84-86 is a no go.
Going with a 92-01 and living in Missouri I feel like a rust free one will be hard to find. Where are some key spots I'll want to check for rust that would be a deal breaker?

Originally Posted by salad
#1 Jeep Enemy is rust. Avoid it like the plauge.

Of course, being a Jeep, it will probably be rusty. Make fixing it your top priority or you won't have anything left to mod lol. Everything else is secondary. Remember, its a uni-frame. Everything else is replaceable.
My budget is $1200-1500 depending on my next couple pay checks. I plan to look at multiple Jeeps and not get jumpy and just buy the first one I find.

Originally Posted by Firestorm500
Get the very best Jeep you can afford. Don't buy a cheap beater figuring you can fix it up for little to nothing.
$1200-$1500 seems to be the asking price for a Jeep around 150k in decent shape on Craigslist in my area. I'm hoping I can find one that doesn't require to much work in way of rust repair and maintenance for that price.

Originally Posted by wiggles
91-99
Little to no rust
Do everything right the first time
That's about all
Where are key places I should check for rust? Wheel wells, fenders, floor pan? Any other important, rust prone areas?

Last edited by CherockeeXJ; 07-06-2013 at 01:51 PM.
Old 07-06-2013, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by CherockeeXJ
Ideally I'm looking for a 97-99 XJ but I'll take anything that has the right price and best condition. How much would it be to replace the head? If I find an 00 or 01 I'd probably end up replacing the head just to avoid it cracking down the line.
A new head runs around $500.

Originally Posted by CherockeeXJ
Also if you were buying a new (to you) Jeep, what would be your checklist of things to go over?
-Rust
-Excessive play in steering
-"Death Wobble" (feels like a paint shaker at hwy speed)
-Fluid level and condition
-condition of belts and hoses
-leaks
-odd noises or smells
-odd vibrations
-make sure electrical items work
-suspension component condition (bushings, ball-joints, tie-rod ends, shocks, etc.)
-condition of brakes and tires
-oil pressure above 13 psi at hot idle (if it has a guage)
-temp stable (around 210, a little below or above is ok, if it has a guage)
-transmission shifting properly (auto), clutch engages smoothly and not slipping (manual)
-condition of engine and trans mounts
-wiring condition (not cracked, worn, or with lots of splices and "hack" repairs)
-make sure the 4WD (if it has it) works properly
-for an 00-01 any signs of a cracked head, especially coolant in the oil

Note: Most of these aren't deal breakers but any issues should adjust the price accordingly.

Originally Posted by CherockeeXJ
Going with a 92-01 and living in Missouri I feel like a rust free one will be hard to find. Where are some key spots I'll want to check for rust that would be a deal breaker?
That depends on how much work you are willing to do. Any rusted out areas in the "frame" rails would be a deal breaker, it is best to avoid rusted out floors, those can be repaired, but since the XJ is uni-frame a proper repair will be cutting out the rusted areas and welding in new metal. Surface rust is ok, but make sure to treat it with POR15, RustBullet, or ChassisSaver right away so it doesn't get any worse.

Originally Posted by CherockeeXJ
Where are key places I should check for rust? Wheel wells, fenders, floor pan? Any other important, rust prone areas?
Common places for rust are basically anyware underneath, floor pans, and rockers are especially susceptible.
Old 07-06-2013, 04:25 PM
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You asked what I would have done differently and in my case I would have bought a left over 99 instead of a 00 when I bought the new XJ for my wife. I would have probably gotten a better deal too. But that said, aside from replacing the cylinder head last year at 175K miles, its been one of the most reliable cars we've ever owned. As for rust, may be are lucky but our XJ has zero rust even after having lived outside and through 13 northeast winters. A properly maintained XJ should last well over 250K miles.

Last edited by Kalali; 07-06-2013 at 04:28 PM.
Old 07-06-2013, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Kalali
As for rust, may be are lucky but our XJ has zero rust even after having lived outside and through 13 northeast winters. A properly maintained XJ should last well over 250K miles.
It isn't so much luck as taking care of it. Most of the ones I've seen with factory undercoating (or good aftermarket undercoating) that were washed after every winter have little to no rust (this seems to be especially common with one owner XJs).

Of course those of us that bought our XJs used are at the mercy of the previous owners and those that were never washed leaving salt to sit on it all year long or "transplants" form the south that didn't have factory undercoat and were never undercoated after being moved north tend to be rust buckets, that's why you have to watch out for it.

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