What would you have done first?
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2L V8
What would you have done first?
I've always been one to do my research and learn from those who are obviously more experienced. I wrecked my F150 and am looking to get a Jeep at the beginning of August.
I want to know what all y'all Jeep Veterans would've done first or differently so I can avoid making some of the same mistakes and maybe save myself the time, hassle, and money of dealing with them.
Anything that you would recommend, advice you may have, or tips would be greatly appreciated.
I want to know what all y'all Jeep Veterans would've done first or differently so I can avoid making some of the same mistakes and maybe save myself the time, hassle, and money of dealing with them.
Anything that you would recommend, advice you may have, or tips would be greatly appreciated.
#3
I think its like most cars, give a test drive, make sure everything or at least most things works. Check 4wd and for rust especially. Stuff is reasonably priced for these things compared to what I am use to.
#5
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes
on
11 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
#1 Jeep Enemy is rust. Avoid it like the plauge.
Of course, being a Jeep, it will probably be rusty. Make fixing it your top priority or you won't have anything left to mod lol. Everything else is secondary. Remember, its a uni-frame. Everything else is replaceable.
Of course, being a Jeep, it will probably be rusty. Make fixing it your top priority or you won't have anything left to mod lol. Everything else is secondary. Remember, its a uni-frame. Everything else is replaceable.
#7
So far I wouldn't have done anything differently if I could do it again. I'm happy with how my build is coming along.
Do it right the first time is about the best advice I can offer. Dont cheap out on the important things.
Do it right the first time is about the best advice I can offer. Dont cheap out on the important things.
Trending Topics
#8
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oroville, CA
Posts: 12,367
Likes: 0
Received 19 Likes
on
18 Posts
Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
Avoid one with janky wiring, and avoid one that has been lifted already. Clean, rust free, bone stock, and mileage under 150k. 92-01 will work great, 87-91 are ok, 84-86 is a no go.
#9
CF Veteran
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Broward County Fl.
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes
on
22 Posts
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
Avoid all above but mostly one that are warmed up and ready to drive when you get there.good sign of starting issues .Let it run while checking it out after complete warm up test drive. Check for oil leaks tranny leaks check all lights for proper operation 4wd operation after all above see if radio works ...Also be leary of a lot of new parts good sign of issues trying to be corrected by throwing all kinds a parts at it the selling headache to some one else.
#10
Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Sonoma County Ca
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L inline six
If one were to take what everyone here has said and use that information to buy a jeep they would definitely get a really reliable vehicle.... my two cents is stay away from a 2000 and 2001 unless they can show you paper work that says a replacement head has been put on there, a clear water head or from another trusted source, another 0331 head is not a good fix unless it has tupy stamped on it... id have a good lift and tires on my rig if i would have been given the same information.. btw the 2000 2001 have a weak spot in the cylinder head that is why most will tell you to stay away from them and is what im referring to in the above info.
#11
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oroville, CA
Posts: 12,367
Likes: 0
Received 19 Likes
on
18 Posts
Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
I have a lot of 2000-01 XJs in the fleet I work on. I've only had one crack a cylinder head. These are fleet vehicles that only have idiot lights, no gauges, and they are driven by idiots. Don't let the 0331 head be a deal breaker if you find a clean rust free low mileage rig.
#12
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2L V8
If one were to take what everyone here has said and use that information to buy a jeep they would definitely get a really reliable vehicle.... my two cents is stay away from a 2000 and 2001 unless they can show you paper work that says a replacement head has been put on there, a clear water head or from another trusted source, another 0331 head is not a good fix unless it has tupy stamped on it... id have a good lift and tires on my rig if i would have been given the same information.. btw the 2000 2001 have a weak spot in the cylinder head that is why most will tell you to stay away from them and is what im referring to in the above info.
Avoid all above but mostly one that are warmed up and ready to drive when you get there.good sign of starting issues .Let it run while checking it out after complete warm up test drive. Check for oil leaks tranny leaks check all lights for proper operation 4wd operation after all above see if radio works ...Also be leary of a lot of new parts good sign of issues trying to be corrected by throwing all kinds a parts at it the selling headache to some one else.
Also if you were buying a new (to you) Jeep, what would be your checklist of things to go over?
Where are key places I should check for rust? Wheel wells, fenders, floor pan? Any other important, rust prone areas?
Last edited by CherockeeXJ; 07-06-2013 at 01:51 PM.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Harrisburg, Pennsylvania
Posts: 918
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
-Excessive play in steering
-"Death Wobble" (feels like a paint shaker at hwy speed)
-Fluid level and condition
-condition of belts and hoses
-leaks
-odd noises or smells
-odd vibrations
-make sure electrical items work
-suspension component condition (bushings, ball-joints, tie-rod ends, shocks, etc.)
-condition of brakes and tires
-oil pressure above 13 psi at hot idle (if it has a guage)
-temp stable (around 210, a little below or above is ok, if it has a guage)
-transmission shifting properly (auto), clutch engages smoothly and not slipping (manual)
-condition of engine and trans mounts
-wiring condition (not cracked, worn, or with lots of splices and "hack" repairs)
-make sure the 4WD (if it has it) works properly
-for an 00-01 any signs of a cracked head, especially coolant in the oil
Note: Most of these aren't deal breakers but any issues should adjust the price accordingly.
Common places for rust are basically anyware underneath, floor pans, and rockers are especially susceptible.
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Ocean, New Jersey
Posts: 578
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You asked what I would have done differently and in my case I would have bought a left over 99 instead of a 00 when I bought the new XJ for my wife. I would have probably gotten a better deal too. But that said, aside from replacing the cylinder head last year at 175K miles, its been one of the most reliable cars we've ever owned. As for rust, may be are lucky but our XJ has zero rust even after having lived outside and through 13 northeast winters. A properly maintained XJ should last well over 250K miles.
Last edited by Kalali; 07-06-2013 at 04:28 PM.
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Harrisburg, Pennsylvania
Posts: 918
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Of course those of us that bought our XJs used are at the mercy of the previous owners and those that were never washed leaving salt to sit on it all year long or "transplants" form the south that didn't have factory undercoat and were never undercoated after being moved north tend to be rust buckets, that's why you have to watch out for it.