What is the fuel pressure running with the vacuum hose pulled off the fuel pressure regulator?

 

Hmm haven't checked that I brought the gauge home with me I wil try in the am if it fails or not

 

I'm don't ducking with cars today it's time to drink beer smoke cigars and play gta v

 

I don't dunking cars tonight ether. HEY! a thought..When did this come up? Has it been sitting?

"Today's" Fuel will separate if it's been sitting. Worse, the (lower) "blend gift" part will absorb any water it can. A supper curse for me here with carburetors in most things. (and wearing out pull starter cords). I just got this out of my 5 gallon generator tank today. It gets pretty obvious when you put it in a jug and it separates. The lower will burn, (and kill weeds), but things run like spit on it if at all, on full choke.

I pour what gas I can off the top and save the "other". I have over two gallons of it saved up. A wonder if Chevron will buy it back?

 

Supposed to say dicking but my phone auto corrected. Water in the fuel could be but the same condition over a almost year period?

 

Oh...not likely I suppose. I did edit/add, has it been sitting? Was a thought anyway...

 

The fourth down "sensor diagnostics" has some MAP tests that can be done with a digital. Mine will sputter and cough and maybe, maybe not start with the MAP unplugged.

Forth down, here> https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/helpful-renix-links-1397/

 

I will check that. It hasn't been sitting since I have owned it. I drive the **** out of it. It was supposed to be a toy and has become something i enjoy to drive

 

Fuel pressure key on is 40 psi it started this am and ran at 30 psi took off vac to fpr and had 40psi

 

That's good.

 

Yes it is. So now what the hell am I over looking ?

 

I haven't done it. I'd check the MAP feed, ground, and output to the ECU sitting IGN on, and idling warm as suggested above in post #22.
Freedgr was thinking MAP, and mine will sputter and maybe or maybe not start with it unplugged.

About everything under the hood is affected by temperature since basically everything changes size a little. For a year I had a wire that would short when it warmed up. My wires to the lower sensors were mis-routed so that when the heat shield warmed up it would cut into them. A sensor (or wire), that is right near messing up might change when hot/cold. Besides checking the MAP voltages and ground, I'd take a look at, jiggle the gang that comes off the injector harness to the lower sensors. My problem was one of those grounding while the engine was hot.

THEY ARE NO LONGER ROUTED THERE BY THE MANIFOLD

 

I'll check that. I don't think that's it by I will look I've had my harness opened up and re taped a few times removing splices.

 

I'd be all over that MAP. With spark and fuel pressure....it's a major player.

One thing I can't help but mention. At least one member, maybe two posted that his renix would not work without unplugging his CTS, (which tested good) Yea, "distasteful" to go with a test like that...but maybe worth a shot.

I repaired and taped my grounding wires before joining the forum. Now I'd need to pull it apart to see which of those wires grounding waz causing me such grief. It would be OK running, then shut down is when the shield would expand into the wires. Some days I didn't turn it off because of that!

I think the CTS is a way bigger player than the IAT. (intake air temp).

Splices? Unsoldered splices? Gotta run....

 

Cts? Coolant temp switch ? Both are new high quality units. I'll check the map sensor. Not quite sure what your post was supposed to mean but yeah