What size speaker do you have in your rear hatch
#1
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Model: Cherokee
What size speaker do you have in your rear hatch
I popped my hatch cover the other day to replace some old, blown factory speakers. I think they're 5 1/4's, but it almost looks like enough room to run some 5X7's? Has anyone done this? Will a 5X7 fit in that space? It looks like it almost would- I bet a 4X6 would.
What about whacking out some of that fiberglass and fitting in a 6X9? I'd like to do that, as I already have a good set of 6X9's...just wondering if I should be gutting out my hatch in an effort to fit a larger speaker?
I'm no sound system genius, so I hope you'll chime in. Thanks.
What about whacking out some of that fiberglass and fitting in a 6X9? I'd like to do that, as I already have a good set of 6X9's...just wondering if I should be gutting out my hatch in an effort to fit a larger speaker?
I'm no sound system genius, so I hope you'll chime in. Thanks.
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Year: 1995
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Engine: 4.0L High Output
I've heard of some folks successfully running 6x9s in the rear hatch. I really want to try it mysef once I get my hands on a pair of them. I say go for it, the clarity and midbass a 6x9 would provide would be well worth the custom effort IMO!
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I'll have to take another look, but I want to say that my reciprocating saw can get in those tight spaces and trim out some of that glass.
Where there's a will there's a way- I've already got a good set of 6X9's that sound great and aren't being used. I'd rather spend all day tomorrow making them fit rather than spend one cent on another set of speakers!
Where there's a will there's a way- I've already got a good set of 6X9's that sound great and aren't being used. I'd rather spend all day tomorrow making them fit rather than spend one cent on another set of speakers!
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Year: 1999
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I suggest AGAINST putting 6x9s in the fiberglass hatch. I had them in my 1984 and they did nothing but fall out all the time and sounded like crap since there is really no way to seal them up well. The screws really hate the fiberglass. Stick with the 5.25s in the hatch and put some nice 6.5s in the front doors. Keep an eye out for the speaker soundbar from a donor XJ. I added one to my '92 and it sounds awesome.
I disabled the stupid 5.25s in the hatch anyway.
I disabled the stupid 5.25s in the hatch anyway.
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#8
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
As for speakers, I got an issue. My rear speakers console has..khem.. fallen off a bit since that stupid bolt under light cover got broken.
Now that it fell, rear speaker don;t get enough... space (?) whatever.. they just don;t sound. There is no way to fix console fitting withou welding.
Anybody has an idea how to mount speaker so that they sound good again? Is it worth to move them into rear door?
Now that it fell, rear speaker don;t get enough... space (?) whatever.. they just don;t sound. There is no way to fix console fitting withou welding.
Anybody has an idea how to mount speaker so that they sound good again? Is it worth to move them into rear door?
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Year: 1987
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Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
I have 6x9s in my hatch and they fit and sound fine. I had to do a little fiberglass trimming but it all fits under the factory panel. You can't even tell the wussey 5.5s are gone until I turn it up.
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Thanks Brian for the heads up. Just a little trimming; I figured it would work.
I've got a riv-nut (rivet gun that installs hollow threaded rivets)- that should hold in that glass
I've got a riv-nut (rivet gun that installs hollow threaded rivets)- that should hold in that glass
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I put 6x9s in three "early" liftgates with a minimum of trouble.
Use a Dremel with a rotary cutting bit (what could be called a "spiral saw,") and use a sanding drum to make small adjustments to the finished hole.
Use a pilot drill about the size of the screw shank - or a shade smaller - when you put the screws in. Or just use pop rivets.
(If you really want fill-in anyhow, you're going to want to stick a sub driver in on its own amp. I did that on my 88 - nothing huge, I don't like to "thump." But, I do like to know that a good bass riff got started when the Mothers crank one up...)
Use a Dremel with a rotary cutting bit (what could be called a "spiral saw,") and use a sanding drum to make small adjustments to the finished hole.
Use a pilot drill about the size of the screw shank - or a shade smaller - when you put the screws in. Or just use pop rivets.
(If you really want fill-in anyhow, you're going to want to stick a sub driver in on its own amp. I did that on my 88 - nothing huge, I don't like to "thump." But, I do like to know that a good bass riff got started when the Mothers crank one up...)