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What should oil pressure be?

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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 09:00 PM
  #16  
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Herp Derp Jerp
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Originally Posted by Pelican
C'mon salad, there's always going to be at least one......
I know lol. It's just been a while.

Originally Posted by bigbadon
I remember building fires under the oil pan in the winter to thin the oil enough to turn over. Engines in cold climates were wearing out in 60k miles b/c they were not getting lubricated.
Thank you for posting this. I am not old enough to remember this but it's important that people are aware.

Additionally, I've yet to see a monograde oil with a decent additive package that is actually appropriate for use in an automobile.
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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 11:03 PM
  #17  
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okay fellers, I have a 185 degree thermastat. So the oils not gonna breakdown and sludge up everything, I live in Florida so its hot as ball sack down here. I also change my oil every 3000 miles. I have all mechanical gauges so everything is accurate. My jeep is a 1991 xj with 215000 miles. I have no valvetrain noise and no dry starting what so ever. And I get 18 mpg. And my oil changes are cheap.
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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 11:09 PM
  #18  
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everyone has there own ways of doing things and ive had fantastic luck with mine. i thought this was about sharing each others information to help out other people and give them ideas. I have a 1997 f150 ive been doing the same thing to and it has 350000 miles on it.
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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 11:20 PM
  #19  
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Yeah! Stupid API has no idea what they're doing! Engine designers are totally clueless! Tests and standards are a scam! Engineers are just in it for the money! You show them!
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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 11:27 PM
  #20  
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you should be a politician, your rude,disrespectful,ignorant, and a *******. Treat people with respect.
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 02:34 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by bigbadon
I remember building fires under the oil pan in the winter to thin the oil enough to turn over.
Yup. Charcoal briquettes in an upside-down trash can lid, slid under the oil pan once they turn white. On a carb'd motor with marginal vapor control. Seems brilliant in retrospect, lol.

A lot of folks didn't trust the multigrade oils back then and some of them really were sketchy, shearing down to sewing machine oil relatively quickly. But it isn't 1970 anymore.
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 03:58 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by wileycwr
you should be a politician, your rude,disrespectful,ignorant, and a *******. Treat people with respect.
No thanks. I have a brain in my head. Not sure how using motor oil newer than the 1960s makes me ignorant.

Respect is earned, hombre. You come in here spouting trash and won't present any rationale for your decision.

Man, I am SUCH an ******* for following half a century's advancement in science. Shame on me.
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 05:47 AM
  #23  
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I gave my info why I use the oil I do and like I said I use it in the summer in Florida where its 80 degrees in the morning and 105 for the high. And i have vehicles that reach 300000 miles with no rebuilds. Like i said it works for me down here in Florida. I would not do that in any northern state.
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 08:03 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by wileycwr
I gave my info why I use the oil I do and like I said I use it in the summer in Florida where its 80 degrees in the morning and 105 for the high. And i have vehicles that reach 300000 miles with no rebuilds. Like i said it works for me down here in Florida. I would not do that in any northern state.
Quit spreading bad info/oil myths in forums. Did u read that motor oil link I post? The fella that wrote it, Dr A E Haas, is from Florida also. Try finding just one automotive engineer that will agree with u. Ain't gonna happen.
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 09:06 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by djb383
Quit spreading bad info/oil myths in forums. Did u read that motor oil link I post? The fella that wrote it, Dr A E Haas, is from Florida also. Try finding just one automotive engineer that will agree with u. Ain't gonna happen.
That is an article worth reading and he hits it out of the park.
When multigrade was introduced in the mid fifties it took a generation to overcome its fears. It was invented to solve a problem. Straight weight oil was once recommend for air cooled engines b/c the polymer viscosity improvers in multigrade oil would break down from the higher heat from these engines and stick piston rings. Today that issue has also been solved and most air cooled engines run multigrade.
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 10:25 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by wileycwr
I gave my info why I use the oil I do and like I said I use it in the summer in Florida where its 80 degrees in the morning
80 degrees might be warm for humans but it's cold for motor oil
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 11:05 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by wileycwr
you should be a politician, your rude,disrespectful,ignorant, and a *******. Treat people with respect.
You out your mind there. Salad is one of the most helpful people here. How bout you learn some respect yourself and keep your fingers to yourself and not type ignorance
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 04:40 PM
  #28  
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I have respect for everyone untill they are rude to others FIRST. All I know is I have vehicles that last 300 to 350000 miles. And have built several high horsepower mud trucks and drag cars. And have had fantastic results so y'all keep reading about everything while I'm actually doing stuff.
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Old Jun 12, 2014 | 01:54 AM
  #29  
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...Yet real race engine builders don't think twice about running 0W5.
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Old Jun 12, 2014 | 05:16 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by wileycwr
so y'all keep reading about everything while I'm actually doing stuff.
You do realize the rest of the planet runs the proper oil their vehicles were engineered for, right? This isn't some crackpot theory circulated by basement dwellers on the Internet. My Jeep 4.0L has >360k and VW TDI 1.9L has >380k on the multigrade oils specified by their designers. Surprising, I know.

Is "I live in Florida" really the only rationale you have?
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