What an interesting thread. Personally I'm going to save up all of my used oil from my lawn mower and Town and Country and use it. It has a Walmart filter on it, should be good for at least a year, right?




Seriously, aren't even the diesel oil's zinc/phosphorus levels being restricted now? I just bought this Jeep and picked up Valvoline 10/30 high milage blend. Will see how it goes........... Change the oil and filter as suggested and get in some mud...........I'm more concerned about Corona being at the top of someone's beer list.........

 

Sorry, I am using the max life blend. I like it so far but I have some piston slap even with the lucas oil treatments. I do have Good oil pressure with the lucas added. About three months ago I put some 10 w30 conv. in it and I could tell it was not doing well, so I drained it. It must have done a pretty good job cleaning though because it came out thin and jet black. So I change to the Valvoline Max life high mileage blend with a quart of lucas and it ran better with better oil pressure. It also seems to keep its consistency and not get so thin. I plan on sticking with this oil and I have 141k on the engine. I am still on the fence about these desil oils though.

 

Well, hello everybody, from the land where diesel, which is Tonto ll's [XJ 2.5L diesel 2000] favourite tipple, costs US$7.55/gal. Gas is about the same.

For those of us on this tax-blighted side of the pond, I recommend having a look at the write-up on Castrol Edge 5w-40 Turbo Diesel at www.opieoils.co.uk. This stuff looks good to me and it works for petrol engines, too.

I bought 2 x 4 litres of it on ebay.uk for £61 inc p n p. That's £7.63/L. Halford's want £10/L.

The supplier of the Castrol very kindly included a bottle of Redex fuel system cleaner as a freebie. Trouble is, you're s'posed to put it in with a tank fill. That's £87 / US$135

Question. I'm doing VERY low mileages a.t.mo. The past 4 years it's been less than 3000 m/year. Well, I go to London a lot. That's £45/US$70 for fuel or £12/US$18 by coach, round trip. The difference buys a lot of beer.

So, before I fill up with the Castrol, would anyone recommend doing some sort of flush with 1] a cheap oil + cleaner, or 2] present oil + cleaner followed by cheap oil followed by the Castrol? Or what?

Obviously, the cheap oil would be drained after no more miles than it takes to get the engine up to operating temp.

 

honestly, Im not a fan of the engine flush/cleaners. I think if you have always used good oil and taken care of it, sludge inside the engine shouldnt really be a problem

 

I use Royal Purple 10W 30 in the summer and 5W 30 in the winter:
96 4.0, 5 speed 270,000+ gets 22mpg down from 24 when it was newer
97 4.0, 5 speed 210,000+ shorter gears gets 19mpg

 

I bet no1 is using the 1 step bigger oil filter.. all worried about the oil but running a "stock" sized oil filter huh i hate threads like this

here the chart for people that want to run a bigger filter..

 

just run some castrol GTX 10w-30 (depending on the environment the weight will vary) in it, it will be fine.............synthetic is thinner, doesn't cause leaks but will get through a small seap hole quicker than conventional (then u gotta replace gaskets...)

 

thank you so much for posting that, I asked before and ppl didnt give a good part number answer for different filters, as the auto guys dont know jack. next time I change my oil I'll be using a bigger filter.

**are they all the same for all years and models? like an 89 limited?**

 

No.. and that is the problem with random charts like that one....

The renix years use a different thread on the filter mount. Now.. you can change the filter mount out for a later one and use that chart, but it won't work stock. The stock WIX part for a Renix 4.0 is 51626. I will try and get the oversized part number for it. I need to find my WIX cross reference book in my mess.

 

Not to lash out but thats the most retarded thing I've ever heard. Why would it make an engine run hotter if it has better lubricating properties and can withstand higher heat without breaking down, hence the longer change intervals? I think you have a cooling problem. And it deteriorates bearings?? thats worse than the causes leaks argument. The leaks are caused by the bad seals, not the synthetics... the seals were bad to begin with and the synthetic just cleaned out the crap holding them together. I'm sure if it was bad for bearings than the local mercedes dealer where my dad takes his car wouldn't require it for their warranty.

The whole synthetic vs. conventional argument is BS. Both can be used without issue (might leak if you have old seals), and you can switch back and forth between conventional and synthetic whenever you want. The bigger issue is with the zinc content. Everyone has their favorite oil brand. The problem is the oil isn't the same formula that daddy or grampa recommended and swore by years ago. With new emissions standards oil has been changed to help cat converters last longer. This new formula has an API SM rating. Anything with a sunburst "gas saving" label on the front is SM rated and not good for our motors. Sure it won't do harm in one oil change but cam wear will happen if using it over long periods of time. Not so long ago (like a couple years) most oils had an API SL rating, which had plenty of zinc for our motors. So all of those people running Valvoline, Castrol, etc. for years were fine. Since then they have all changed. If you read the back of the bottles, some oils still have an API SL rating. Most of these are diesel oils, since diesel motors still use flat tappet cams, unlike the modern gas motors of today. I've found that Rotella has some SL rated oils. I'm about to put in some Mobil 1 high mileage 10w30 since it has a greater amount of zinc in it. The high mileage has more zinc than the regular Mobil 1, which still has more than your typical Valvoline, Castrol or the like. Many people swear by certain oil brands, but are unaware of the changes that have been made, and the different standards being put in place.

I used to read bobistheoilguy.com, but that site is starting to be full of crap. Its just a giant opinion on everything, I've seen two debates in one week on the use of Valvoline Synthetic, and both ended with different opinions. Don't base your info off what some guy tells you hes been running for years, do your own research.

I forgot to post the numbers for Mobil 1.

Mobil 1 10w30:
zinc: 900 ppm
Phosphorus: 800 ppm

Mobil 1 10w30 high mileage:
zinc: 1000 ppm
phosphorus: 900 ppm

some of the racing oils even have 1850 ppm of zinc, but aren't recommended for street use because of emissions regulations. I have a PDF chart with all of these numbers but can't figure out how to post it. If anyone wants to look at the chart shoot me a PM with your e-mail and I can attach it and send it to you.

 

that is the setup for 89-01 xj cherokees!

how would u know u dont even know where the chart came from?!

 

I use the same thing and it has worked for me. My brother also uses it in his cherokee.

 

didnt read the other posts but have to make sure this is said YOU CANT PUT ANYTHING BUT FULL SYNTHETIC IN AFTER YOU RUN IT OR BAD THINGS WILL HAPPEN
try mobil 1, never had a problem with it and run it in every car ive owned

 

i use the same 15-40 that we run in our dumptrucks and heavy equipment. i have a 100 gallon tank of it so why not. oh and a wix filter of coarse and a bottle of lucas

 

I'm about 90% sure I have the same copyrighted book you posted that from.

Like I have already posted... the information is incorrect for Renix 4.0l motors....

Renix models 87-90 use a different oil filter mount.

Wix 51085 uses a 3/4 x 16 threaded mount... The 51626 for the Renix motors uses a 20mm x 1.5 threaded mount.. they do not interchange...