I don't know about you but I don't like sluge in my moter. I'm not afrade of replacing a gaskit for a clean moter. And his gaskit was bad before the syn oil gtx dosnt have enuf zink and phos. And I use to run q as well until I noticed a valve tick it was the q oil or the k and m oil filter.

 

X2

 

You better use your dipstick JIMMY.

 

no knocking/ticking sounds? 10w 40
knocking/ticking sounds? 20w 60

 

Just use whatever grade it says in the handbook. There's nothing to be gained from second guessing the people who designed the engine and were liable for warranty claims.

Synthetic oil is great, and won't cause leaks. But it is also totally unecessary on these old boat anchors unless you're going for a massive drain interval. My recommendation would be a mid quality semi-synthetic. That's all it needs.

Lucas (and all other oil additives) are totally redundant if you've got decent oil and change it when it is due.

 

+1 and no oil myths in this post, unlike most of the others.

 

synthetic is not thinner, the 10W30 is the viscosity which is basically a measure to how thick an oil is

the reason people think synthetics cause leaks is because all synthetics have detergents and additives in them, most of which are used to clean bearing surfaces of gunk and what not, Usually its the case that a gasket will fail in a certain area, but because conventional oil has passed through the hole in the gasket it will be eventually plugged up by gunk

WELL the plugged holes will get "cleaned" by the synthetic oil which will cause the previously plugged leaks to reappear

 

His keyboard probably looks like this
http://glynmora.com/WidderWoman/wp-c...n-Keyboard.jpg

 

How did you know I use my black barry to post? Well never passed a spelling test eather. But last I checked you don't need to be an english teacher to turn a wrench. I'm just an old (25) farm boy who dropped out of the birth canail with a wrench in my hand. By the way about my parents I don't ask when I really don't want to know!

 

I like your style.

I have argued this to the point of just saying heck with this thread lol.
2000 XJ- High Zinc Formula 10w-40 or Diesel Spec Amsoil. 138k
1988 MJ- Rotella 15w-40, with Lucas if i remember. but it just leaks oil anyway.

I also refuse to use a FRAM filter because of the common bad drainback valve. I will only use WIX or Amsoil filters. I have found that an amsoil filter is really no more better then a WIX.

A flat tappet engine like the 4.0 or 2.5 LIKE zinc. So any oil with a high zinc content would be your best bet. Arguing about oil is like arguing about what beer tastes better...

 

MGD.... Corona is the next best. ha ha.

 

Now thats a thread I could get behind....

 

Another good post, no myths here and no misspelled words either.

 

Its no good to run syn in a brand new motor. Always use regular oil for the break in, and after that, its good to switch to synthetic. Every engine builder has told me that.

As for me i run wallmart synthetic...that supertech crap. Good insurance running a synthetic it will keep everything clean. If i spring an oil leak, ill just fix it, just like im sure anyone else would do. But im OCD with my cars..however, i cant see why you would run mobil 1 synthetic...its overkill IMO, whats the need its not a race motor, its not boosted, its certainly not running 13s, or making any kind of power. I love my jeep. I save the mobil 1 for my stang.

 

So whats the deal? Does synthetic oil ruin high mileage engines like others here say, or is it fine? I am using the high mileage synthetic blend that seems to be working out pretty well. The valvoline high mileage synthetic blend I use has zinc.