What does it take to get this out?
#1
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Year: 1991
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What does it take to get this out?
I'm trying to do a project on my '91 XJ, basically fixing one of the screw in ball mounts for the rear hatch strut. The top mount on the left side free spins, no matter if I tighten it or loosen it. I tried pulling it forward and loosening it, I tried banging on it, and finally I got angry and tried flat out yanking on it. What on Earth is it gonna take to get this friggin thing out?!?
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Year: 90,84
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I know these things all too well. My old thing with 260+k has done it all in the 13 or so years I've been at it. (it's 22)
You can remove the plastic trim, then plunge cut with an angle grinder such that you can get small needle-nose vice grips in there. There is a nut. I was then able to get it back together with washers added. A assume this weekens the structure/alters crash/role-over strength. That's a fix that can end up "clean". Also there are dirty ones that work. Don
Caution! While I was at the orthopedic surgeon's, there was I guy there who had found a way to really wreck his hand with an angle grinder.
You can remove the plastic trim, then plunge cut with an angle grinder such that you can get small needle-nose vice grips in there. There is a nut. I was then able to get it back together with washers added. A assume this weekens the structure/alters crash/role-over strength. That's a fix that can end up "clean". Also there are dirty ones that work. Don
Caution! While I was at the orthopedic surgeon's, there was I guy there who had found a way to really wreck his hand with an angle grinder.
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Well that sucks. I guess I need to make a phone call to my friend. Honestly, I think welded nuts have got to be the dumbest idea ever. Whats the difference between a welded nut, or a regular nut with a enough access to tighten or remove it as needed??
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#8
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Well, since I lack grinders and what not, I think I have decided what to do. I am modifying the existing mount to accept a bolt for a new 'manual' strut which I lock with a pin. I am going to JB Weld the spinning mount in place, make sure it is secure, and then cutt off the thin next and ball, drill, and tap. Thanks for the help guys! Much appreciated!
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The formally welded nut is inside the metal post which is under the trim. If you have it welded, make sure your guy knows how to not fry your computer.
You can drill the socket and fit a screw/nut on it. The head of that can then fit in a hole where your spinning ball is now. Because its always under pressure it will stay stuck in the hole.(a washer helps) Don. PS, it's allot of pressure, I doubt any glue will work. I take it it won't stay on the loose ball as is?
You can drill the socket and fit a screw/nut on it. The head of that can then fit in a hole where your spinning ball is now. Because its always under pressure it will stay stuck in the hole.(a washer helps) Don. PS, it's allot of pressure, I doubt any glue will work. I take it it won't stay on the loose ball as is?
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The formally welded nut is inside the metal post which is under the trim. If you have it welded, make sure your guy knows how to not fry your computer.
You can drill the socket and fit a screw/nut on it. The head of that can then fit in a hole where your spinning ball is now. Because its always under pressure it will stay stuck in the hole.(a washer helps) Don. PS, it's allot of pressure, I doubt any glue will work. I take it it won't stay on the loose ball as is?
You can drill the socket and fit a screw/nut on it. The head of that can then fit in a hole where your spinning ball is now. Because its always under pressure it will stay stuck in the hole.(a washer helps) Don. PS, it's allot of pressure, I doubt any glue will work. I take it it won't stay on the loose ball as is?
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Those are a ***** eh? Yea, by the way I've been conked on the head 1/2 dozen times over the years when my (temporary) manual support, (stick), failed. If I have time Sat. I'll snap a pic of what I did to one about a year ago that works.
Socket drilled. Don.
Socket drilled. Don.
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My 72 Scout 2 has metal slides that lock up, then you lift it and they free to lower it. They are probably strong enough but I don't know if their is clearance there when it's closed. You might want to look around the wreckers for something like that. At this point my gas-charged are immortal. I like that they lift all that weight for me. There is nothing they can do that I can't fix. And that's without welding so far. If I had a wire feed welder I'd try that. Might be a little small/thin for arc. Gas would be a seine of burning wire insulation and paint....(rubber),I think, maybe not.
#13
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My 72 Scout 2 has metal slides that lock up, then you lift it and they free to lower it. They are probably strong enough but I don't know if their is clearance there when it's closed. You might want to look around the wreckers for something like that. At this point my gas-charged are immortal. I like that they lift all that weight for me. There is nothing they can do that I can't fix. And that's without welding so far. If I had a wire feed welder I'd try that. Might be a little small/thin for arc. Gas would be a seine of burning wire insulation and paint....(rubber),I think, maybe not.
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Beautiful Eh? I'm so proud! Seriously though. The "slotted" on on the right could have been done "neat", so you'd never know. (unless you rooled it just right and the frame crumpled there!)
The left could maybe be a little neater Guess the hole in the trim could be about to size if a quarter. ITS A WORK TRUCK GUYS everything works fine, just no beauty contests.
The scout is 300 Mi. away at the moment. Really, it might not cost that much to have yours welded, especially if you pull the trim and clean to bare metal as best you can. Don.
The left could maybe be a little neater Guess the hole in the trim could be about to size if a quarter. ITS A WORK TRUCK GUYS everything works fine, just no beauty contests.
The scout is 300 Mi. away at the moment. Really, it might not cost that much to have yours welded, especially if you pull the trim and clean to bare metal as best you can. Don.