well now..
#1
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter
well now..
Well now since ive put in 50 dollars into the jeep to try an get the oil to stop leaking im going to be going all out to actually get the little bugger to stop leaking. First off- the rear main seal is the culprit. Im going to be buying that from auto zone for 19.99... but this is my first actually tough repair. what all should i get to do it?
I know im going to be needing jack-stands.( two ) so how about the ones from auto zone called duralast / 1 pair 2 ton jack stands for 24.99...
The oil pan gasket from auto-zone by fel-pro for 23.96
But what else will make my job easier?
I know im going to be needing jack-stands.( two ) so how about the ones from auto zone called duralast / 1 pair 2 ton jack stands for 24.99...
The oil pan gasket from auto-zone by fel-pro for 23.96
But what else will make my job easier?
#2
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i just need a rms last weekend your basic hand tools are all you need. alsong with a nail punch to tap the rms out. but if the truck is stock height. make sure you take out the botton shock bolts and drop the sway bar, so you can jack the truck up heigh enough to clear the linkage and axle and get the oil pan out. you will also have to take the oil sump off its only one bolt on the inside of the pan
#3
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Year: 1995
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oh. i was told to take out the top shock bolts. and can you indicate to me which one the swaybar is? dumb question. but havent ever needed to touch it.
#4
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
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watch takin the top bolt out cuz the shaft might spin with the nut. your better off pb blastin the bottons and takin them off. the sway bar bolts are to 2 bolts on both sides that hold the bushing up on the botton of the frame rail in front of the front axle just fallow the swaybar from the link ends up and they will jump out at ya
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Year: 1995
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watch takin the top bolt out cuz the shaft might spin with the nut. your better off pb blastin the bottons and takin them off. the sway bar bolts are to 2 bolts on both sides that hold the bushing up on the botton of the frame rail in front of the front axle just fallow the swaybar from the link ends up and they will jump out at ya
http://www.jeepbrokers.com/Jeep_Pics/project_3B_5.jpg
the thing(S) in front of the coils? just take those out??
#6
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
no no no thats the track bar braket...... follow the link infront of the botton of the coil and it attaches to a horizontal bar ( swaybar ) fallow that bar to the bushing and thats the bolts you need to take out
#7
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Year: 1995
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ohh.. alright i found it..thanks.. but thats all i will have to do? sway bar and bottom of shock bolts... wheere would be the best place to set the jack stands? and should i take off the front wheels when i do it?
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#8
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Year: 93
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i would take tires off makes for more room for axle to drop i would set the stands right behind the control arm brackets, my jack wouldnt go high enough for me to get the jeep high enough so i ended up using my winch to lift my jeep up far enough lol dont wanna do that again ever lol, um also hope you dont have to tap any of the holes in the block cause its a huge pain, i had to use a freakin jack under the tap to get it to thread into the block it was a pain! but good luck lol
#9
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
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you need you jack it high to get that front axle to drop out of the way.... put the jack stands on the frame rails behind the front tires. you dont have to take the tires off. but u might want to take the starter off to give you more room to get to the oil sump bolt
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Year: 1995
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if i bought a haynes or chilton manual would it show me how to do it ?and taking off the starter isnt a big deal..but the sump bolt. is that after i take off the oil pan???
#14
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
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them manuels can help... the sump bolt is inside the pan u need to drop it as far as u can and get in there with a wrench i think its like a 12mm. when u get the bolt out you need to pull the sump straight down and once it drops you will be able to slide the pan out
#15
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Year: 1995
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oh. alright. that makes sense. i will probally end up replacing all of the bolts on the oil pan anyways.