Welded On rear upper shock mounts. Am I screwed?
#1
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Year: 1996
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Welded On rear upper shock mounts. Am I screwed?
Grrrrrrrrr
Guys, so I 've got to the point to take a close look at my shocks and was thinking about replacing them, and I found that rear upper mounts are welded on, pls see pics.
The driver side both bolts are broken and both "ends" are welded, the pass side - one bolt is still there, I'd guess that I'll brake it trying to remove.
I've read the threads about how it is possible to deal with the situation when the bolts are broken, but at this point my big question is how am I going to remove the shocks to begin with.
I don't have nor can weld/cut.
So, guys, how would you deal with this. Do you think that trying to knock it off somehow would be a waste of time and a lot of noise
I am scratching my head and am not so happy at the moment.
Thanks for any idea or a thought in advance.
Guys, so I 've got to the point to take a close look at my shocks and was thinking about replacing them, and I found that rear upper mounts are welded on, pls see pics.
The driver side both bolts are broken and both "ends" are welded, the pass side - one bolt is still there, I'd guess that I'll brake it trying to remove.
I've read the threads about how it is possible to deal with the situation when the bolts are broken, but at this point my big question is how am I going to remove the shocks to begin with.
I don't have nor can weld/cut.
So, guys, how would you deal with this. Do you think that trying to knock it off somehow would be a waste of time and a lot of noise
I am scratching my head and am not so happy at the moment.
Thanks for any idea or a thought in advance.
#3
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x2 cut them off and re-drill the holes mate.
trying to break/twist them off could cause more damage, get an angle grinder and do it that way.
trying to break/twist them off could cause more damage, get an angle grinder and do it that way.
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Grind'em off, drill and tap new holes and use antiseize on the new bolts. I broke two bolts replacing my shocks and had to fix mine.
#5
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Find a friend with a torch and have him cut then loose and then grind it flush. Then redrill and tap. The alternative to that would be to weld a bar pin eliminator there and use different shocks.
#6
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thanks, Guys!
Good morning, guys. Well, it's "my morning" as I just got up Made my post before I passed out, got up and the first thing after coffee checked the thread. Thanks for your input, guys.
Yeah, so, I guess no "Pink Cadillac style ride" for me for a while ....
xjbones, I can't say on TV what I've said when I've found this.
Yeah, so, I guess no "Pink Cadillac style ride" for me for a while ....
xjbones, I can't say on TV what I've said when I've found this.
#7
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go buy yourself a dremel and some cutoff wheels and go to town yourself, just dont cut into floor lol.
i say a dremel because it will be easier to work with given the space as opposed to an angle grinder.
i say a dremel because it will be easier to work with given the space as opposed to an angle grinder.
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#8
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And check out this thread. Gonna do it myself Asap.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/upp...unt-mod-27284/
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/upp...unt-mod-27284/
#9
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Why does everyone keep saying to re-tap them?
In my opinion, it's so much easier to just knock those rivet nuts out and use a regular bolt & nut combo. Those rivet nuts don't really have enough material to justify drilling & tapping (particularly if you don't center it just perfectly).
Joe
In my opinion, it's so much easier to just knock those rivet nuts out and use a regular bolt & nut combo. Those rivet nuts don't really have enough material to justify drilling & tapping (particularly if you don't center it just perfectly).
Joe
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Why does everyone keep saying to re-tap them?
In my opinion, it's so much easier to just knock those rivet nuts out and use a regular bolt & nut combo. Those rivet nuts don't really have enough material to justify drilling & tapping (particularly if you don't center it just perfectly).
Joe
In my opinion, it's so much easier to just knock those rivet nuts out and use a regular bolt & nut combo. Those rivet nuts don't really have enough material to justify drilling & tapping (particularly if you don't center it just perfectly).
Joe
#11
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i second that emotion hahaha seriously though.. don't bother tap-n-drilling them, cuz in the long run, if you screw up tap-n them then u have to go with the best alternative.... just knocking the spot welded nuts out and installing your own GRADE 8 bolts...... through the holes and bolting them up that way
#12
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Hi, Guys. Thanks again.
Yeah, I sure was thinking of going "bolt-through-the hole" way.
But that would be a second part of my "story" here
I have a lil' dremel, but I gues with mine it will take forever, it's like a "toy-tool" ...
I was thinking maybe to check in a hardware store to see if the've got some attachment for a regular drill that I could use to cut the welded mounts, or maybe at least partially cut them here-there-and-around and maybe then try to knock them off ...
*************
Question!
Guys, I can't think straight, so maybe this would be a real dumb question. When , I mean while, trying to cut/or/knock off the welded mounts, should I lift the rear end or not?
Yeah, I sure was thinking of going "bolt-through-the hole" way.
But that would be a second part of my "story" here
I have a lil' dremel, but I gues with mine it will take forever, it's like a "toy-tool" ...
I was thinking maybe to check in a hardware store to see if the've got some attachment for a regular drill that I could use to cut the welded mounts, or maybe at least partially cut them here-there-and-around and maybe then try to knock them off ...
*************
Question!
Guys, I can't think straight, so maybe this would be a real dumb question. When , I mean while, trying to cut/or/knock off the welded mounts, should I lift the rear end or not?
#13
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dont use a dremel... will tak forever and them blades die fast and cost alot! they do make a blade holder for drills but they dont spin very fast... look on ebay...you can get a cutoff wheel off ebay for $15... not a name brand but mine works great 4 years later...
#14
Dr Zee, once you have the old shocks out and the new ones properly installed. I suggest locating the previous owner, or repair shop that did this and use the old shock to beat them about the head and face.