Welded On rear upper shock mounts. Am I screwed?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 244
Likes: 4
From: New York, USA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Grrrrrrrrr
Guys, so I 've got to the point to take a close look at my shocks and was thinking about replacing them, and I found that rear upper mounts are welded on, pls see pics.
The driver side both bolts are broken and both "ends" are welded, the pass side - one bolt is still there, I'd guess that I'll brake it trying to remove.
I've read the threads about how it is possible to deal with the situation when the bolts are broken, but at this point my big question is how am I going to remove the shocks to begin with.
I don't have nor can weld/cut.
So, guys, how would you deal with this. Do you think that trying to knock it off somehow would be a waste of time and a lot of noise


I am scratching my head and am not so happy at the moment.
Thanks for any idea or a thought in advance.
Guys, so I 've got to the point to take a close look at my shocks and was thinking about replacing them, and I found that rear upper mounts are welded on, pls see pics.
The driver side both bolts are broken and both "ends" are welded, the pass side - one bolt is still there, I'd guess that I'll brake it trying to remove.
I've read the threads about how it is possible to deal with the situation when the bolts are broken, but at this point my big question is how am I going to remove the shocks to begin with.
I don't have nor can weld/cut.
So, guys, how would you deal with this. Do you think that trying to knock it off somehow would be a waste of time and a lot of noise



I am scratching my head and am not so happy at the moment.
Thanks for any idea or a thought in advance.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 6,588
Likes: 495
From: Chico, CA
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system
Find a friend with a torch and have him cut then loose and then grind it flush. Then redrill and tap. The alternative to that would be to weld a bar pin eliminator there and use different shocks.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 244
Likes: 4
From: New York, USA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Good morning, guys. Well, it's "my morning" as I just got up
Made my post before I passed out, got up and the first thing after coffee checked the thread. Thanks for your input, guys.
Yeah, so, I guess no "Pink Cadillac style ride" for me for a while ....
xjbones, I can't say on TV what I've said when I've found this.
Made my post before I passed out, got up and the first thing after coffee checked the thread. Thanks for your input, guys.Yeah, so, I guess no "Pink Cadillac style ride" for me for a while ....

xjbones, I can't say on TV what I've said when I've found this.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,251
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From: Eugene, OR
Year: 01
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
go buy yourself a dremel and some cutoff wheels and go to town yourself, just dont cut into floor lol.
i say a dremel because it will be easier to work with given the space as opposed to an angle grinder.
i say a dremel because it will be easier to work with given the space as opposed to an angle grinder.
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CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,254
Likes: 11
From: London Ontario Canada
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
And check out this thread. Gonna do it myself Asap.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/upp...unt-mod-27284/
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/upp...unt-mod-27284/
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 750
Likes: 4
From: Blakeslee, PA
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.7
Why does everyone keep saying to re-tap them?
In my opinion, it's so much easier to just knock those rivet nuts out and use a regular bolt & nut combo. Those rivet nuts don't really have enough material to justify drilling & tapping (particularly if you don't center it just perfectly).
Joe
In my opinion, it's so much easier to just knock those rivet nuts out and use a regular bolt & nut combo. Those rivet nuts don't really have enough material to justify drilling & tapping (particularly if you don't center it just perfectly).
Joe
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,611
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From: Michigan
Year: 1987 MJ, 1973 J2000, 1986 XJ, 08 JK
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0L H.O
Why does everyone keep saying to re-tap them?
In my opinion, it's so much easier to just knock those rivet nuts out and use a regular bolt & nut combo. Those rivet nuts don't really have enough material to justify drilling & tapping (particularly if you don't center it just perfectly).
Joe
In my opinion, it's so much easier to just knock those rivet nuts out and use a regular bolt & nut combo. Those rivet nuts don't really have enough material to justify drilling & tapping (particularly if you don't center it just perfectly).
Joe
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 282
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From: SEMI
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i second that emotion hahaha seriously though.. don't bother tap-n-drilling them, cuz in the long run, if you screw up tap-n them then u have to go with the best alternative.... just knocking the spot welded nuts out and installing your own GRADE 8 bolts...... through the holes and bolting them up that way
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 244
Likes: 4
From: New York, USA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Hi, Guys. Thanks again.
Yeah, I sure was thinking of going "bolt-through-the hole" way.
But that would be a second part of my "story" here
I have a lil' dremel, but I gues with mine it will take forever, it's like a "toy-tool" ...
I was thinking maybe to check in a hardware store to see if the've got some attachment for a regular drill that I could use to cut the welded mounts, or maybe at least partially cut them here-there-and-around and maybe then try to knock them off ...
*************
Question!
Guys, I can't think straight, so maybe this would be a real dumb question. When , I mean while, trying to cut/or/knock off the welded mounts, should I lift the rear end or not?
Yeah, I sure was thinking of going "bolt-through-the hole" way.
But that would be a second part of my "story" here

I have a lil' dremel, but I gues with mine it will take forever, it's like a "toy-tool" ...
I was thinking maybe to check in a hardware store to see if the've got some attachment for a regular drill that I could use to cut the welded mounts, or maybe at least partially cut them here-there-and-around and maybe then try to knock them off ...
*************
Question!
Guys, I can't think straight, so maybe this would be a real dumb question. When , I mean while, trying to cut/or/knock off the welded mounts, should I lift the rear end or not?
MJ>XJ
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17,836
Likes: 7
From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
dont use a dremel... will tak forever and them blades die fast and cost alot! they do make a blade holder for drills but they dont spin very fast... look on ebay...you can get a cutoff wheel off ebay for $15... not a name brand but mine works great 4 years later...
Dr Zee, once you have the old shocks out and the new ones properly installed. I suggest locating the previous owner, or repair shop that did this and use the old shock to beat them about the head and face.
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,611
Likes: 447
From: Michigan
Year: 1987 MJ, 1973 J2000, 1986 XJ, 08 JK
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0L H.O


