cool

 

Also make sure you keep track of where the bolts go back in, they're different lengths!
I just set them in the new pumps corresponding spots until the old one is completely off, then switch them back to the old so they don't fall off when your wiggling that thing back in.
Also don't forget blue rtv on the water pump and teflon tape on the inlet tube threads.

Good luck!

 

I know this sounds obvious but any component that uses a gasket to attach to the engine needs to be torqued to spec. Too tight or too loose and you'll have a leak. I don't think you need RTV if you use the better quality gasket which has a bead already on it. The gaskets that come with water pumps or thermostats are garbage.

 

And use a putty knife or razor scraper to take off ALL the old gasket, sealant, rust, etc.
Tighten the bolts in a star pattern like a wheel, so you get a nice, tight seating.

 

Thanks for all of the insight everyone, just finished her up a bit ago. I put in new 50 50 mix, but I know not all of the coolant from inside the engine made it out. Is it necessary to get a flush done to make sure that I have one type of coolant in there?

 

nah, I wouldnt sweat it, something will leak soon enough, you'll be back at it

 

You can get a fancy little gauge to test the coolant. It looks kinda like a turkey baster with a small rubber hose coming out of the bottom. It has little discs that float up and tell you what temperature the coolant is rated for. If the temperature shown is lower than the lowest temperature where you live, than you should be fine. For instance, mine reads -5 degrees. The lowest it gets over here in the winter is about 3 or 4 degrees. Sometimes it can get in the negatives, but not very often. Get your hands on a gauge to test the coolant, or just wing it. If you had 50-50 in it before, you should be fine.

 

In the summer, straight water can cool the engine just fine. In the winter, antifreeze keeps the water in the block from freezing and cracking the block. That is why you need the coolant rated for lower than the lowest temperature where you live. Up in colorado, you may need something a little more resilient than me. Most of my coolant is water because I keep flushing it to get all the gross sealer gook out that some mechanic put in to stop leaks, but I'll have that taken care of by winter.

 

So everything is running well, the only problem is a very small leak. I cannot tell if it is coming from the top of the water pum or the bottom of the thermostat housing. I used the crap gaskets that came with the parts, along with a bit of clear rtv silicone. I cleaned off the old gasket well, or so I thought. Should I use straight RTV, or but better gaskets with the bead line already on it?

 

crank the bolts 1/2 turn more, see if the leak goes away

 

Be very careful doing that. You don't want anything to break. I say loosen the bolts, and then torque them down right with the right seals between the thermostat housing and the engine block. It means taking it apart again, but it's the right way to do it. I think all mine has is a gasket between with some form-a-gasket to hold it on from when my dad and I put it back together. Granted, I think the housing on yours is different than mine, but it's the same concept.

 

I blame you for the leak renegade! haha