Wandering steering after 4.5" lift
#1
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I-6
Wandering steering after 4.5" lift
OK so I'm sure I'm like the thousandth person to ask this question, but I need some help. Just had a Rusty's 4.5" full spring pack kit installed on my '00 Cherokee (4WD / 4.0L obviously). Nothing real crazy, just the fixed lower control arms, adjustable trac bar, etc. By the way, it's only got 46K miles on it. I had it aligned after the lift, and it's got about 9 degrees positive caster / just about 0 on the camber & toe (Rusty's recommendation was 7 deg. positive caster).
But for some reason it wanders everywhere - especially when I get above about 40-50 mph, and I'm only running 31X10.50X15's on it. Constantly having to fight to keep it between the lines on the road. No driveline vibes or anything (used the t-case drop), but the steering is driving me crazy. According the mechanic that put it on, they "didn't need" the 6 degree shims - not sure if that would have anything to do with it or not.
And also, when I've got it parked and just slightly jiggle the steering wheel, the trac bar moves side-to-side before there's any movement in the tires. Other than that, the steering's pretty tight...
HELP!
But for some reason it wanders everywhere - especially when I get above about 40-50 mph, and I'm only running 31X10.50X15's on it. Constantly having to fight to keep it between the lines on the road. No driveline vibes or anything (used the t-case drop), but the steering is driving me crazy. According the mechanic that put it on, they "didn't need" the 6 degree shims - not sure if that would have anything to do with it or not.
And also, when I've got it parked and just slightly jiggle the steering wheel, the trac bar moves side-to-side before there's any movement in the tires. Other than that, the steering's pretty tight...
HELP!
#2
I have the same issue after a 5.5 RE full leafs and short arms.. new trackbar.. Currie HD tie rod and draglink also.. EVERYTHING is new.. I don't know why it does this.. I think it might be a bad steering box??
#3
The factory spec is as follows:
CASTER
Prefered + 7.0°
Range + 5.25° to + 8.5°
MAX RT/LT DIFFERENCE 1.25°
Improper caster really screw up the handling and the Return To Center.
CASTER
Prefered + 7.0°
Range + 5.25° to + 8.5°
MAX RT/LT DIFFERENCE 1.25°
Improper caster really screw up the handling and the Return To Center.
#5
CF Veteran
One thing to check, assuming you have aligned it is the steering box. After 100,000 they do need adjustment. If you have play in the steering, you will likely need to do this.
#6
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Year: 97
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Engine: 4.0
my buddy has the rustys adjustable track bar on his lift that he bought new about 3 weeks ago. he's having all kinds of problems with the trackbar coming loose. i'd look into that.
#7
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L 242
i would look into the trackbar. do you have sway bar links on? that would cause it to be all over the road at that speed. also think theres lil to much caster. i would bring it back to aligment shop and ask them to change it 7 could be way to much caster
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#8
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Year: 2000
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Thanks for all the help. Glad I'm not the only one! One additional piece of history is that I just put a new (remanufactured) steering gear box in it. The old one had some binding in the gears and it was a constant fight just to turn it. Hopefully this one's okay. I asked the alignment shop about having so much caster in it, and the guy said he always tries for as much as he can get after a lift - according to him the more positive caster, the more it helps the return to center. If they put it back at 7 deg., he says it'll just compound the issue.
I'm gonna look into the trac bar issue more - will probably call Rusty and see if that's a known problem and what I can do to fix it. The sway bars are connected, but I'm wandering if I need some beefier ones (could it be that the stock ones are just too flimsy)?
I'm gonna look into the trac bar issue more - will probably call Rusty and see if that's a known problem and what I can do to fix it. The sway bars are connected, but I'm wandering if I need some beefier ones (could it be that the stock ones are just too flimsy)?
#10
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L 242
Thanks for all the help. Glad I'm not the only one! One additional piece of history is that I just put a new (remanufactured) steering gear box in it. The old one had some binding in the gears and it was a constant fight just to turn it. Hopefully this one's okay. I asked the alignment shop about having so much caster in it, and the guy said he always tries for as much as he can get after a lift - according to him the more positive caster, the more it helps the return to center. If they put it back at 7 deg., he says it'll just compound the issue.
I'm gonna look into the trac bar issue more - will probably call Rusty and see if that's a known problem and what I can do to fix it. The sway bars are connected, but I'm wandering if I need some beefier ones (could it be that the stock ones are just too flimsy)?
I'm gonna look into the trac bar issue more - will probably call Rusty and see if that's a known problem and what I can do to fix it. The sway bars are connected, but I'm wandering if I need some beefier ones (could it be that the stock ones are just too flimsy)?
i have 6 on my caster and it dosnt wander so i woukd do that
#11
CF Veteran
Its possible your sway bar is really worn, but that shouldn't cause you to pull or drift like you described. Your trackbar shouldn't be moving. A loose trackbar means your entire front axle is moving left and right under your chassis. Tighten everything with generous grease to torque (make sure spaces between bolt and bolt hole are snug, too) and next time do an alignment yourself, its pretty easy once you start moving things around and measuring. I agree with FrankZ, set it to stock. That's why you bought the lower control arms, to be able to compensate for angle differences so that the wheels may roll forth with ease into the sunset.
#12
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track bar should have absolutely no side to side movement, period.
get under there and crank that bolt freakin tight. then check for movement.
otherwise, get a new bushing if it's the axle mount end, or replace the tie rod end at the frame mount, if it's aftermarket. or simply get a new one.
that's why you're wandering.
get under there and crank that bolt freakin tight. then check for movement.
otherwise, get a new bushing if it's the axle mount end, or replace the tie rod end at the frame mount, if it's aftermarket. or simply get a new one.
that's why you're wandering.
#13
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Year: 1989
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Engine: 4.0 litre
I don't think the alignment guy knows what he is talking about. Their is a mechanic shop around here that pretty much does all the lift kits tires and stuff and their alignment mechanic said he would never set it to 7. Where ever you took it needs to adjust it and adjust it for free since he didn't adjust it right
#14
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A local alignment guy who had a 4X4 shop until the economy took a dive sets them at 8 degrees castor and says he never had a problem.
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Thanks to all. I took it back to the mechanic / alignment shop yesterday afternoon and left it with them. Told them to put the caster back at NO MORE THAN POSITIVE 7 - period. Also asked them to get back underneath it and re-torque all bolts on that trac-bar and everywhere else, and check all bushings and the t-bar tie-rod. Then I asked them to test drive it on the interstate before calling me and telling me it was done again (I told the guy "if you wouldn't put your daughter in it going 70, then keep it till you get it right"). I also talked to Rusty again before leaving it at the shop and he re-confirmed that there's absolutely no reason to have the caster set any higher than positive 7.
Hopefully that will eliminate the problem, but either way I'll re-post and let everyone know how it turns out. Thanks again.
Hopefully that will eliminate the problem, but either way I'll re-post and let everyone know how it turns out. Thanks again.