Hi guys,

This just started happening a few days ago. When driving down the road, the voltmeter shoots up to 19 and stays there until you turn the vehicle of and back on. Also, when it is "normal" it has alot more fluctuation than usual, meaning the needle dips below and above 14 volts alot, then shoots up to 19 volts.

All research so far points to me needing a new alternator.

Your thoughts?

 

Voltage Regulator?

Flash

 

put a meter on the battery and make sure it isn't your gauge

 

I thought the voltage regulator was part of the alternator?

 

Things just went from bad to worse...

While rooting around in the engine compartment making sure connections were tight and whatnot, I foolishly placed a wrench where it should not have been and forgot about it . I went to start the jeep and I assume the wrench fell and contacted the positive battery post and the AC compressor (because that is where the scorch marks are). There was an electrical arc and the whole thing shut off.

Now there is no power at all. I have check every fuse and they are all good. I was able to get the dome lights back by leaving the battery disconnected for a good few minutes, but when I went to actually start it everything went black again and now no power, and I can't even get the dome lights back .

I really need your help here guys this is my only vehicle for a 3 person family and I have a commute to work in the morning!

PLEASE HELP!!!

 

did your battery die? try getting some cables in the morning, for right now id just make sure all your fuses are good.

 

I don't think so, given that even a dead battery will turn on a dome light. And like I said, I was able to get ACC back but when I turned it to ON (where fuel pump would prime) it died again.

 

BUMP

 

Fusable link?

 

Where is that fusable link located?

 

Is that the connector right off the starter solenoid? Can I bypass this in order to test?

 

I may not be much help here. The fusible link may be some other color, blue or green?

Be sure to clean and check your battery connections. The short may have caused one to fail. hence only low draw.

If you shorted from bat. pos or starter Pos. I don't see how that could blow the link. Check those batt. connections.

I see now you had one off. check the other. get bare metal, sometimes a thin layer can prevent contact and do just what you describe.

 

There are several fusable links. The small one coming off the battery then a few others of the same guage distributing the power to different legs. You can bypass it or simply check for continuity with a mm. Resistance should be very low.

 

I would guess your arc incident ruined the battery. If you get an open cell in the battery you can get 12 volts from it but there are minimal amps behind the 12 volts, once you turn the key to start or even to the run position all of the amp hungry components take what little was available and basically short out the weak battery. Do the dome lights slowly come back on after the key is back in the off position? Have it load tested at your local parts store to be sure, usually a free test.

 

Thanks for the help guys, I think I know which direction to take from here. Let's pray it's not the ECM. I would rather f*ck with a wiring harness for hours than shell out the money for a new ECM.