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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 03:30 PM
  #16  
shooting sticks's Avatar
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From: Wenatchee, WA
Year: 1990
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Originally Posted by beefmobile
don't worry, i doubt you could have possibly made that mistake. There isn't a spark plug gap tool in the world that goes that high lol.....it was just pointing out a technicality so you wouldn't scratch your head when gapping the plugs....
Haha yea okay.
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 06:20 PM
  #17  
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use a piece of vacuum hose cut not to long and thread the new plugs in finnish with the socket & rachet
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 07:59 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by kemjeep
use a piece of vacuum hose cut not to long and thread the new plugs in finnish with the socket & rachet
Uh what? I don't understand.
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 08:09 PM
  #19  
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I always put a blob of dilectric silicon grease in the plug boot before I clip them back on the plug. It waterproofs the seal and makes them easier to get off next time. I do the same to both ends of all of the plug and coil wires.
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 08:15 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by shooting sticks
Uh what? I don't understand.
On some engines it's really tough to get the plug to the hole and turn it. With a length of tubing that just fits the end of the plug, you can feed it into place and get a couple turns started. #1 on my 4.0 behind the AC compressor is the only remotely buried plug.

Last edited by DFlintstone; Jan 11, 2012 at 08:39 PM. Reason: tubing
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 08:28 PM
  #21  
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Goodntite may work for Germans... Not for me I'd try to find an actual torque spec for the spark plugs but I'm paranoid
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 08:42 PM
  #22  
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I would pass on the grease myself.
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 08:55 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by rockeyallen
Goodntite may work for Germans... Not for me I'd try to find an actual torque spec for the spark plugs but I'm paranoid
i looked in my haynes manual and i didnt see a torque spec. but i did see they suggest using a rubber hose to start it. i found that interesting.
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 08:59 PM
  #24  
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Year: 1990
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Engine: 4.0L Renix
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
On some engines it's really tough to get the plug to the hole and turn it. With a length of tubing that just fits the end of the plug, you can feed it into place and get a couple turns started. #1 on my 4.0 behind the AC compressor is the only remotely buried plug.
OH yea that makes sense. I have a plug or two that is buried under my antifreeze line and two water lines I believe? How do I get in there?
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Old Jan 12, 2012 | 12:53 AM
  #25  
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You'll manage. The hardest part will be some stupid little thing you would never expect. Like you will get the plugs out then find you are parked on an ant mound or something. Good luck!

(hoses Btw, Heater and radiator hoses w/coolant, (50/50 antifreeze and water))

Last edited by DFlintstone; Jan 12, 2012 at 12:58 AM.
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Old Jan 12, 2012 | 01:14 AM
  #26  
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Dielectric grease in boot, anti seize on threads. I saw that you mentioned "studdoring" when accelerating in another thread. Fuel filter could be suspect, good idea in changing that. Your spark plug wires could also contribute to that so if you're doing the plugs, I'd recommend do the wires too while you're at it
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Old Jan 12, 2012 | 01:43 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 1996sportXJ
Dielectric grease in boot, anti seize on threads. I saw that you mentioned "studdoring" when accelerating in another thread. Fuel filter could be suspect, good idea in changing that. Your spark plug wires could also contribute to that so if you're doing the plugs, I'd recommend do the wires too while you're at it
Yes I think I'm on the right path to solving a few of my issues.
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