Very simple question
01-11-2012, 01:58 PM
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Very simple question
Might be considered a stupid question, but my young mind with little to no experience with this would like a somewhat detailed explaination on how to install spark plugs. It obviously is of no help to say you unscrew the old and screw in the new because that's common sense. Are there other steps to take when installing new plugs and do you have any tips? Also I am installing a new fuel filter and would like some guidance on that as well, however, I will make a new thread for that.
01-11-2012, 02:03 PM
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Gap to .35 (I think), install one plug at a time so you get the right wires back on, and only snug them up, don't tighten them too much. Use a spark plug socket, it'll make removing them and putting the new ones in much easier.
01-11-2012, 02:04 PM
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Unscrew old ones then first compare the plugs you bought make sure theyre the same then gap the new ones to .035 then then them in and make them snug with the wrench
01-11-2012, 02:07 PM
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Okay what exactly do you use to get the right gap? Because you can't just eye that haha
01-11-2012, 02:08 PM
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01-11-2012, 02:16 PM
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01-11-2012, 02:21 PM
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like others have said, use what's called a spark plug socket for the best results. It is a deep-well socket that has a little rubber ring inside of it that holds on to the end of the plug so you can pull it out of the block without having to fish it out. Not absolutely necessary, but it helps out a lot...
Be very careful. i don't know how long your plugs have been in there, but you DONT want one snapping in half and stuck in your block. i would use about a 5-6" extension so you're no elbow deep in the motor, it will bring your leverage point up, and sometimes give you more room to turn the ratchet. Put gentle, consistent torque on them to remove them, don't go *****-to-the wall and try to be mega man. once you get them all out, you'll need to gap the plugs. Gap it to .035 inches. The way you do that is stop by autozone and they'll have little stacks of disc-looking things at the front counter. They're usually less than $1 or so. It is a lip on the outside that progressively goes up in depth. On spark plugs, there is a gap on the end between the electrodes (or whatever they're called). you want to put that gap on to your new gapping tool on the SMALLEST part of the lip. slowly and carefully slide it towards the bigger side until you're gotten to the .035" mark. You may have to gently wiggle the plug to get it to slide to the right spot. Do this to all of the plugs before you start installing them, so you don't lose track as to which ones you've gapped and which ones you haven't.
Then, you'll need a small tube of anti-seize. It's a gooey substance that prevents threads from locking up. Take a very small dab (about the size of a rain drop) and put it on the threads of the spark plugs. Then put the new spark plugs one-by-one into their holes in the block. MAKE SURE you do NOT cross thread these plugs because you will cause permanent damage to your block and it will have to be re-threaded. Put the plugs in the hole, the gently begin to screw them in nice and slow and make sure there is very little resistance. if you're cranking down on them right after you started threading them in, you're wrong. there should be 5-7 rotations at least before they start getting snug.
I'm sure there is a torque spec for the 4.0's plugs, but i've always gotten them 'good-and-tight' meaning they're snug with some pressure on them, but no he-manned on there. i recommend putting on some dielectric grease on the tips of the plugs where the plug wire goes on to it so that area does not corrode.
And you're done. Hope this helps.
Be very careful. i don't know how long your plugs have been in there, but you DONT want one snapping in half and stuck in your block. i would use about a 5-6" extension so you're no elbow deep in the motor, it will bring your leverage point up, and sometimes give you more room to turn the ratchet. Put gentle, consistent torque on them to remove them, don't go *****-to-the wall and try to be mega man. once you get them all out, you'll need to gap the plugs. Gap it to .035 inches. The way you do that is stop by autozone and they'll have little stacks of disc-looking things at the front counter. They're usually less than $1 or so. It is a lip on the outside that progressively goes up in depth. On spark plugs, there is a gap on the end between the electrodes (or whatever they're called). you want to put that gap on to your new gapping tool on the SMALLEST part of the lip. slowly and carefully slide it towards the bigger side until you're gotten to the .035" mark. You may have to gently wiggle the plug to get it to slide to the right spot. Do this to all of the plugs before you start installing them, so you don't lose track as to which ones you've gapped and which ones you haven't.
Then, you'll need a small tube of anti-seize. It's a gooey substance that prevents threads from locking up. Take a very small dab (about the size of a rain drop) and put it on the threads of the spark plugs. Then put the new spark plugs one-by-one into their holes in the block. MAKE SURE you do NOT cross thread these plugs because you will cause permanent damage to your block and it will have to be re-threaded. Put the plugs in the hole, the gently begin to screw them in nice and slow and make sure there is very little resistance. if you're cranking down on them right after you started threading them in, you're wrong. there should be 5-7 rotations at least before they start getting snug.
I'm sure there is a torque spec for the 4.0's plugs, but i've always gotten them 'good-and-tight' meaning they're snug with some pressure on them, but no he-manned on there. i recommend putting on some dielectric grease on the tips of the plugs where the plug wire goes on to it so that area does not corrode.
And you're done. Hope this helps.
Last edited by beefmobile; 01-11-2012 at 02:23 PM.
01-11-2012, 02:33 PM
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like others have said, use what's called a spark plug socket for the best results. It is a deep-well socket that has a little rubber ring inside of it that holds on to the end of the plug so you can pull it out of the block without having to fish it out. Not absolutely necessary, but it helps out a lot...
Be very careful. i don't know how long your plugs have been in there, but you DONT want one snapping in half and stuck in your block. i would use about a 5-6" extension so you're no elbow deep in the motor, it will bring your leverage point up, and sometimes give you more room to turn the ratchet. Put gentle, consistent torque on them to remove them, don't go *****-to-the wall and try to be mega man. once you get them all out, you'll need to gap the plugs. Gap it to .035 inches. The way you do that is stop by autozone and they'll have little stacks of disc-looking things at the front counter. They're usually less than $1 or so. It is a lip on the outside that progressively goes up in depth. On spark plugs, there is a gap on the end between the electrodes (or whatever they're called). you want to put that gap on to your new gapping tool on the SMALLEST part of the lip. slowly and carefully slide it towards the bigger side until you're gotten to the .035" mark. You may have to gently wiggle the plug to get it to slide to the right spot. Do this to all of the plugs before you start installing them, so you don't lose track as to which ones you've gapped and which ones you haven't.
Then, you'll need a small tube of anti-seize. It's a gooey substance that prevents threads from locking up. Take a very small dab (about the size of a rain drop) and put it on the threads of the spark plugs. Then put the new spark plugs one-by-one into their holes in the block. MAKE SURE you do NOT cross thread these plugs because you will cause permanent damage to your block and it will have to be re-threaded. Put the plugs in the hole, the gently begin to screw them in nice and slow and make sure there is very little resistance. if you're cranking down on them right after you started threading them in, you're wrong. there should be 5-7 rotations at least before they start getting snug.
I'm sure there is a torque spec for the 4.0's plugs, but i've always gotten them 'good-and-tight' meaning they're snug with some pressure on them, but no he-manned on there. i recommend putting on some dielectric grease on the tips of the plugs where the plug wire goes on to it so that area does not corrode.
And you're done. Hope this helps.
Be very careful. i don't know how long your plugs have been in there, but you DONT want one snapping in half and stuck in your block. i would use about a 5-6" extension so you're no elbow deep in the motor, it will bring your leverage point up, and sometimes give you more room to turn the ratchet. Put gentle, consistent torque on them to remove them, don't go *****-to-the wall and try to be mega man. once you get them all out, you'll need to gap the plugs. Gap it to .035 inches. The way you do that is stop by autozone and they'll have little stacks of disc-looking things at the front counter. They're usually less than $1 or so. It is a lip on the outside that progressively goes up in depth. On spark plugs, there is a gap on the end between the electrodes (or whatever they're called). you want to put that gap on to your new gapping tool on the SMALLEST part of the lip. slowly and carefully slide it towards the bigger side until you're gotten to the .035" mark. You may have to gently wiggle the plug to get it to slide to the right spot. Do this to all of the plugs before you start installing them, so you don't lose track as to which ones you've gapped and which ones you haven't.
Then, you'll need a small tube of anti-seize. It's a gooey substance that prevents threads from locking up. Take a very small dab (about the size of a rain drop) and put it on the threads of the spark plugs. Then put the new spark plugs one-by-one into their holes in the block. MAKE SURE you do NOT cross thread these plugs because you will cause permanent damage to your block and it will have to be re-threaded. Put the plugs in the hole, the gently begin to screw them in nice and slow and make sure there is very little resistance. if you're cranking down on them right after you started threading them in, you're wrong. there should be 5-7 rotations at least before they start getting snug.
I'm sure there is a torque spec for the 4.0's plugs, but i've always gotten them 'good-and-tight' meaning they're snug with some pressure on them, but no he-manned on there. i recommend putting on some dielectric grease on the tips of the plugs where the plug wire goes on to it so that area does not corrode.
And you're done. Hope this helps.
01-11-2012, 02:39 PM
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01-11-2012, 03:01 PM
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Lay the old ones out in order. Note any deposits and compare the color.
One trick for getting the wires off without pulling the connecter off is to slide the rubber insulator up first if you can.
Yea, make sure the gap is .35
I only use anti seize on aluminum heads, guess it couldn't hurt. A drop of oil...
Always get a few turns by hand, (with the extension). That way you are sure your not cross-threaded.
I'm sort of strong and have a little difficulty with NEW plugs. Since there is a crush washer, the normal light touch won't quite do. Something like 1/8 turn after it feels like it's home should be close.
Fuel filter...Hit the car wash and clean up there first. That's all I've got. There's an arrow on the filter.
One trick for getting the wires off without pulling the connecter off is to slide the rubber insulator up first if you can.
Yea, make sure the gap is .35
I only use anti seize on aluminum heads, guess it couldn't hurt. A drop of oil...
Always get a few turns by hand, (with the extension). That way you are sure your not cross-threaded.
I'm sort of strong and have a little difficulty with NEW plugs. Since there is a crush washer, the normal light touch won't quite do. Something like 1/8 turn after it feels like it's home should be close.
Fuel filter...Hit the car wash and clean up there first. That's all I've got. There's an arrow on the filter.
01-11-2012, 03:09 PM
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01-11-2012, 03:10 PM
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