ThatOne

Hi! everyone.

First of all,I want thank the people on here for providing me with such valuable information.Like fixing the NSS,I almost replaced the starter.This site saved me some cash.hee hee

A few times in the past the jeep wouldn't start if I drove it for less than 15 minutes,and when I drove it longer than that,I didn't have a problem.
The last time it didn't start after a short drive,I got underneath it tap on the solenoid then it started. All my friends told me based on that I needed a starter.That was just a coincidence realising my reverse lights didn't work either and besides tappin on the solenoid,it would also start when I jumped the solenoid, it had to be the NSS based on what I've learned from here.

So I decided,before I put a new starter,I was gonna clean the NSS,glad to report the NSS was the culprit. I haven't had a single problem and get the reverse lights on every time when in R since I CLEANED and ALIGNED the NSS properly (based on what one of the members here posted aligning the line on the NSS parallel the shaft sticking through it.) . When I aligned the NSS all the way clockwise after cleaning it like one DIY i found on line called for, sometimes the reverse lights wouldn't work and wouldn't always start in N but always started in park.

Today was a great day because I solved my misfire cyl 1 code problem,I kinda felt like it was a false code but wasn't sure bc the Jeep ran great and idle ok,no hesitations when accelerating etc. but I was still getting the code. I changed the spark plugs,No 1 injector,I was still getting the 301 code. Every time i cleared the code it came back right away.
Then I remembered someone here saying that He kept getting a code then unhooked the ECU and played with the connectors, and that solved his problems. I went a step further I used some dielectric grease on the connectors,also rerouted the main harness so it's coming from the top instead of the bottom of the PCM,That fixed it.


Also one more thing I wanted to add,I absolutely love the silky smooth and torquey in line 6,It's a blast to drive. The Jeep has been really reliable,Unlike my old winter vehicle with similar mileage. The Jeep starts easily even when temps drop below freezing, this without using heet and an engine block heater.Although 3 times I had to crawl underneath it with a screwdriver to get it started, The jeep has never left me stranded.

Thanks!

Quincy

5-90

If you want to more finely align your NSS, find a helper to work with you for about twenty minutes...

1) Block the wheels.
2) Turn the key to ON (do not start engine!)
3) Shift into Reverse.
4) Have your helper start watching your reverse lamps.
5) Make a reference mark on the transmission case.
6) Move the NSS all the way to one end of the adjustment. The reverse lamps should be OFF (not necessarily, but usually will be. If not, make a matchmark on the NSS even with the reference mark on the transmission case.)

7) Move the NSS very slowly through its adjustment until the reverse lamps just come on. Make a matchmark at that point (make sure your helper's on the ball for this job - it's easy, but they've got to pay attention!)
8) After making the first matchmark, move the NSS through its adjustment (same direction) until the reverse lamps just turn off. Make another matchmark at this point.

9) Realign the NSS so that the reference mark on the transmission case is approximately midway between the two matchmarks on the NSS housing.
10) Hold the NSS with one hand to preserve adjustment, torque the adjuster screw to 15 pound-feet (no more! You can crack the NSS housing...) with the other. If you can't get a torque wrench down there or with that low of a setting, put RTV on the screw threads and turn the screw with your fingers to make contact with the housing, then 1/3-1/2 turn afterwards with a wrench.

You should now start normally in Park or Neutral, and have correct function of the Reverse lamps as well.

Oh - and when giving with OBD-II DTCs (since you're OBD-II,) please don't drop the leading zero after the first alpha digit. It's important.

OBD-II Diagnostic Trouble Codes break down as follows:
- First digit (alpha) identifies the system having trouble ("P for powertrain, "B" for Body, "C" for Chassis, and I believe "U" for network.)
- Second digit (all numbers from here) indicates: "0" for SAE Standard Code, "1" for vendor-specific code (rumour has it that "2" may also be used here, for either expanded vendor-specific codes or for line-specific codes.)
- Third digit identifies the system having the fault (varies by system)
- Fourth and Fifth digits identify the actual fault being experienced.

So you see, dropping that second digit can cause problems - we want to help, but it helps us to know exactly what trouble you're having (and with DTCs, I know that I hate to assume...)

Here's a decent reference for OBD-II DTCs - it's the one I use when I'm in a hurry.

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/

Good luck! And I think that if you use the procedure I'd outlined above to realign your NSS, you'll see everything related to it start working a lot better...

bmp120

Glad to see you got the NSS working and good to hear others are using the reverse lights method.

In addition one can hook up an analog voltmeter on fine and see the resistance go up and down. It should correlate to the markings. If one sees some variance try moving the wiring harness with the voltmeter attached since you cleaned the NSS. It might be not so much the alignment but the wiring harness going bad. If the wiring harness is going bad you will see the variance on the voltmeter but not so much of a variance in the reverse light lighting.

Hope that helps all.