Originally Posted by ET JEEP

Have you checked the basics. Are you getting a spark? Does the fuel pump turn on? Are fuses and relays good?

When you turn the key to on, you should have power at the ASD relay and the fuel pump relay. This power goes to the control pin on each relay, usually pin 86. You should also have contant power at pin 30 of each relay.

The PCM provides the ground for these relays. When you crank the engine, the PCM starts reading info from the sensors, cam sensor, crank sensor, etc ready to start. The ASD powers the coil, injectors, altenator and a few sensors. Check your O2 sensor wiring. It tends to get shorted on the exhaust. If this happens you ASD circuit is shorted. You can crank the engine and listen to your injectors with a mechanics stethoscope. You should hear then click if the ASD circuit is good and they are getting power.

You need to check to see what you do have then search for what you do not have. Sometimes cleaning the PCM connector pins and socket helps. Also, ty-wrapping the connector seems to help. This is what some have done with engine starting and running problems. A good PCM ground is also important.

Originally Posted by defconOne

usually the fuel pump will stop pumping after the abs light goes off...right?
But my fuel pump keep on pumping as long as I do not off the key...

found 1 blue wire not connected to anything out from the bunch of wires from the alternator...

also the previous owner,tapped a brown/yellow wire from the pcm and ground it....I wonder why?

Originally Posted by 96tudor

You're right. The fuel pump is supposed to run for only a few seconds when you turn the key to the ON (or RUN) position. I don't think that issue is related to your current problem though.

Don't worry about the blue wire at the alternator right now either. I'll look at mine when the sun comes up and get back to you.

I think that the previous owner had the same problem as you. The grounded wire attached to the brown/yellow wire may have been done so as not to require opening of the loom and tracing down a faulty ground. I'd remove the tape from that splice and look at the connection. Make sure that the brown/yellow is grounded for certain. See if that will give you a steady Check Engine Light in the RUN position. Again, I'll look at mine this morning.