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using stock flares with trimmed fenders

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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 01:49 PM
  #1  
tannerp89's Avatar
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From: Coeur d' Alene, Idaho
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 rebuilt w/ bored TB, banks header, upgraded ignition, 3 row rad, high flow h2o pump, 180* t-stat
Default using stock flares with trimmed fenders

ok so i trimmed my fenders this weekend (did the cut n roll) and want to re-use the stock fender flares but now that ive done the trim i have no way to attach them. im looking for ideas/suggestions on how to re-attach them, before i bust out the body glue and bondo and slap em on there. or should i just wait and get bushwacker's? any ideas are appreciated
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 01:51 PM
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From: Smiths Station, Al
Year: 87
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My first thoughts are a rivet gun.
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 02:01 PM
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From: New Jersey
Year: 1996
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What you should have done before you trimmed the fenders is measure let's say 1.5" above each mounting hole and mark it with a Sharpie. Then after everything is trimmed, you can drill out the holes and mount up the flares. That would have been the best option, but it can still be done. You would just have to line up the flares where you want them and mark the location of the holes while holding the flare against the fender. It will still work, but it'll take a a little longer to mark all the holes in the right location.
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 02:20 PM
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From: Coeur d' Alene, Idaho
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Engine: 4.0 rebuilt w/ bored TB, banks header, upgraded ignition, 3 row rad, high flow h2o pump, 180* t-stat
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aww yes common sense would have dictated that but you see i broke all of the studs on the metal strips that hold the flares on so i am no longer in possession of the metal strips (garbage man took them yesterday) thats why am trying to come up with ideas
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 02:26 PM
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96_xj's Avatar
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From: Gilbert AZ/Las Cruces NM
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 upgraded
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3m molding tap =] it is what has held molding on for 15+ years on most of our jeeps! plus if you rip on off on the trail you are not ripping bolts out of sheet metal =]
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 02:30 PM
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From: Coeur d' Alene, Idaho
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Engine: 4.0 rebuilt w/ bored TB, banks header, upgraded ignition, 3 row rad, high flow h2o pump, 180* t-stat
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3m molding tape....no **** huh. i was wondering what was holding the side molding on as i took that off too! lol...ill try that first. thanks dude. oh...where would i find some?
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 02:34 PM
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From: New Jersey
Year: 1996
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You should be able to pick it up at AutoZone or an arts and crafts store. Somehow, I only broke 2 bolts when pulling off my flares. I don't see how that's possible considering my Jeep is covered in rust. If you look in my build thread, you'll see why I'm so amazed I only broke 2 bolts. I didn't even have floors a few days ago.
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 02:41 PM
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From: Coeur d' Alene, Idaho
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Engine: 4.0 rebuilt w/ bored TB, banks header, upgraded ignition, 3 row rad, high flow h2o pump, 180* t-stat
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sweet thanks. and lol...LUCKY...i pretty much had to break em all, which is weird since i dont really have rust issues. and holy hell dude im surprised you didnt have to break em all too, that thing was a rust bucket. nice work on the floor repair though, looks good.
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 04:01 PM
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From: New Jersey
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Thanks. It took a while, but you know what they say... Do it once, Do it right. I'm also surprised that I didn't break the weld nuts for the leaf spring shackles when I put my lift on. I can see the nut from inside the cargo area because of the missing floor. I'm anticipating breaking the front weld nuts for the main eye of the leaf springs. I can also see them through the floor so when I fix the back area, I'm probably going to make a little hatch on all the weld nuts that might break in the future.
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 06:49 PM
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From: South Dakota
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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I used carriage bolts(round heads) sanded and painted them flat black and drilled holes right thru the flare and the metal. Bolted them from the back. They are not going to come loose again.
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Old May 18, 2010 | 12:17 PM
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^^^ wanna post some pictures of the outcome??
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Old May 18, 2010 | 02:01 PM
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Year: 1993
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Originally Posted by LeeVenHawk
I used carriage bolts(round heads) sanded and painted them flat black and drilled holes right thru the flare and the metal. Bolted them from the back. They are not going to come loose again.
id love to see some pictures. I ripped my fender flares off then reailzed ****.. i need these to pass inspection.. so much rather then look like **** and buy garden liner or spend a lot of money on bushwhackers i was thinking of using the stock flares with self tapping sheat metal screws with a lil primer on them
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Old May 18, 2010 | 02:02 PM
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From: Haddonfield NJ
Year: 1993
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And when you say cut and roll do you mean just slice the front ones off and for the rear make small slits and pound them up with a ball peen hammer?
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