Used XJ Buyer's Guide Checklist (Stuff to look for...)
02-11-2013, 11:44 PM
#16
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
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02-15-2013, 05:53 PM
#17
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L "Power Tech HO"
Anyone interested in helping compile an exhaustive buyer's checklist for future Jeep XJ newcomers? The most common answer is the 0331 head issue and rust. But, there's more to check than just that, and lots of beginner's don't know where to start. If the list is too obvious for you, clearly, you're not the intended audience. It's for a beginner who is not an XJ veteran. For the others, it gives you a better idea of the budget you'll need, assuming you know how to do basic math. Buy the wrong XJ, and you may easily be looking at lots of repairs to get it driving right. There are plenty of people who can't afford to drastically underestimate the amount of work the XJ might need. It can also help to negotiate a better price when you uncover the repairs needed. If an XJ has a few things wrong, does it mean not to buy the XJ? Of course not! One should expect to make some repairs to any used car he buys. EVERY USED XJ WILL HAVE ISSUES. But, it's educational to know what they are, and to have a summary on common XJ issues, and helps build a more accurate sense of what it will take to get his XJ back to ship-shape. I've only had an XJ for a short time, but here is my contribution to a person who is new to buying an XJ. What can you add to the inspection checklist?
Ask for a list of all work that has been done. If there are no service records, this may be a red flag to you.
Once you buy it: First replace all fluids.
What did I miss?
- Body
- Check for rust. Anything beyond minimal rocker panel rust may be a dealbreaker for you. Floor pans, etc.
- Inspect exhaust. Listen for holes in exhaust
- Check the tires for dry rot and low tread.
- Check the steel wheels for surface rust.
- Check saggy Rear Liftgate Struts. ($30 to replace)
- Driver’s door check pin and bracket (door popping)
- Do all doors seal properly? Aligned?
- Check entire suspension (Trackbar, control arms, Front Lower Steering Stabilizer, FrontSway Bar Bushings and End Links)
- Inspect hubs and u-joints for play. (if you can jack it up)
Engine - Test hood release cable
- Check battery and cables for corrosion.
- Oil leak: Check for valve cover gasket leak
- Oil leak: Check for oil filter adapter gasket leak.
- Oil leak: Check for Rear Main Seal leak.
- Check for cracked exhaust manifold.
- Check if coolant is green. Brown means no sale.
- Start engine with radiator cap off, and make sure no bubbles in coolant.
- Inspect serpentine belt.
- Check the oil level.
- Check freeze plugs for leaks.
Interior - Test ALL windows, lock, switches, heater controls, etc.
(They break. Test ALL of them. Test each passenger door lock and window switch.) - Check Rattling 4WD shifter
- Test front wiper and washer
- Test rear wiper and washer
- Test horn (means broken clockspring)
- Test ALL headlights, blinkers, interior bulbs.
- Verify fuel gauge works
- Check for ant dashboard engine lights. Airbag light.
- Test radio, and test each speaker. The speaker wires crack.
- Test A/C. Cold?
- Test heater for heat (clogged heater core, bad thermostat)
- Test heater vents on ALL settings! (busted vacuum line)
- Test fan on all speeds: busted setting 1-3 indicates blower motor resistor pack
- Test NSS (Neutral Safety Switch) by starting it a few times after wiggling shifter.
Should start every time. (When NSS breaks, it won't start in park, only Neutral)
Driving - Does tranny clunk into gear? (Is this a dealbraker?)
- Test reverse
- Make sure it idles smoothly.
- Test if 4WD works.
- Test brakes.
- Test alignment (let go of wheel and see if it drives straight)
- Test cruise control (means broken clockspring ...or broken vacuum ball under front bumper)
- Get to highway speed and test for death wobble. (30-40mph)
- Sharp turns. Any clunks or pops from the suspension?
Ask for a list of all work that has been done. If there are no service records, this may be a red flag to you.
Once you buy it: First replace all fluids.
What did I miss?
02-16-2013, 02:01 AM
#18
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
No one has brought up how many owners, I would try and keep it to less than 3 especially on XJs' that are modified. Unless you know who the owners were you are just buying some other persons headache, and half finished project.
03-03-2013, 02:56 PM
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
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Here are some things I would also add or consider:
First, check the rear suspension. You mentioned the front, but nothing on the leaf springs. Mine were flat when I got it, but I am planning on lifting it, so replacing them was no big deal.
Front DS and PS seats. On the '97+, these are notorious for breaking off from the actual seat mount. The seat has these thin triangles that are in the corners of the seat, and a heavy PO will likely break these and make the seat sit at an angle(like the big dude I got mine from).
Pull the covers on the rear insides of the cargo area and look for water to collect, which indicates the rear window seals leaking(which is also a common occurance on these as well).
If you can pull the corners of the front carpet up and see if the floor has any rusting. Could be a sign of being in a flood, or carpet not drying out.
Lift the rear seat bottom and see if the jack and jack parts are there, and their conditions. If they are rusted, I would be weary as the vehicle might have been in a flood, or there are some rust holes you might not see directly.
When checking one out for the first time, when you get there, see if the exhaust is warm. Some issues won't be found if the engine is warm. Cold allows you to see if there is any warm up issues, or how it warms up vs already being warm.
Also warm it up and check the condition and smell of the tranny fluid. Brown or burnt I would consider something else.
One thing I didn't check on my first one that cost me some $$ was the fluid level on the transfer case. Mine was bone dry and after about 3k miles, the chain was starting to wear through the case.
Check oil condition cold as well. Here is where you will find the signs of coolant in it, as well as how it is prior to being warmed up.
On the lifted ones, you might seriously consider looking at those closely. I have seen some real hack jobs done on these, and if the lift wasn't installed right, it can cost you a whole lot more $$ down the road to fix, up to and including tires and suspension components.
Check the front and rear unibody points around the bumpers front and rear. A PO might tell you its never been wrecked, but if you look closely you can find out if the unibody components are where they should be. If these are out of whack, you might have either alignment issues, or door closing/hatch closing issues.
Thats all I can think of at the moment. Bimmer, you can add to that list as you need to.
Jeff
First, check the rear suspension. You mentioned the front, but nothing on the leaf springs. Mine were flat when I got it, but I am planning on lifting it, so replacing them was no big deal.
Front DS and PS seats. On the '97+, these are notorious for breaking off from the actual seat mount. The seat has these thin triangles that are in the corners of the seat, and a heavy PO will likely break these and make the seat sit at an angle(like the big dude I got mine from).
Pull the covers on the rear insides of the cargo area and look for water to collect, which indicates the rear window seals leaking(which is also a common occurance on these as well).
If you can pull the corners of the front carpet up and see if the floor has any rusting. Could be a sign of being in a flood, or carpet not drying out.
Lift the rear seat bottom and see if the jack and jack parts are there, and their conditions. If they are rusted, I would be weary as the vehicle might have been in a flood, or there are some rust holes you might not see directly.
When checking one out for the first time, when you get there, see if the exhaust is warm. Some issues won't be found if the engine is warm. Cold allows you to see if there is any warm up issues, or how it warms up vs already being warm.
Also warm it up and check the condition and smell of the tranny fluid. Brown or burnt I would consider something else.
One thing I didn't check on my first one that cost me some $$ was the fluid level on the transfer case. Mine was bone dry and after about 3k miles, the chain was starting to wear through the case.
Check oil condition cold as well. Here is where you will find the signs of coolant in it, as well as how it is prior to being warmed up.
On the lifted ones, you might seriously consider looking at those closely. I have seen some real hack jobs done on these, and if the lift wasn't installed right, it can cost you a whole lot more $$ down the road to fix, up to and including tires and suspension components.
Check the front and rear unibody points around the bumpers front and rear. A PO might tell you its never been wrecked, but if you look closely you can find out if the unibody components are where they should be. If these are out of whack, you might have either alignment issues, or door closing/hatch closing issues.
Thats all I can think of at the moment. Bimmer, you can add to that list as you need to.
Jeff
03-03-2013, 06:19 PM
#20
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Nice list!
I've never heard of the mounting tabs snapping off. The majority of problems are broken welds in the seat frame itself
Front DS and PS seats. On the '97+, these are notorious for breaking off from the actual seat mount. The seat has these thin triangles that are in the corners of the seat, and a heavy PO will likely break these and make the seat sit at an angle(like the big dude I got mine from).
03-04-2013, 08:13 AM
#22
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I didn't even think of this one--my XJ had the same issue. Squeaky, crooked, torn drivers seat from getting a lot of @$$ over the years. I swapped mine out for a 2001 seat, and busted a rusted bolt on the bottom. PITA.
03-04-2013, 10:28 AM
#23
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Nice checklist. But In my honest opinion I think it all comes down to what you're buying the jeep for. if you're buying an xj for 500-1000 bucks all the little things don't matter as much.you known you're buying a project. hell you'll be getting a steal if it even starts and runs. But if I was paying $2k+ or maybe even $4k I'd probably check as much as I can in the list.
Last edited by BlvdKreeper; 03-04-2013 at 10:30 AM.
03-04-2013, 05:23 PM
#24
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Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0L i6
Blvd, it's just a way for a new XJ guy to understand what he's getting into. Yes, if you're getting the XJ for $25, expect to have many issues. But, it's still nice to know what you're in for, and if you're getting in way over your head. If there are 20 things wrong with the XJ, for some, it's not worth taking even for free.
03-04-2013, 07:12 PM
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Uni-body cracks at the corner by the hatch hinge, and even at the top rear corner of the passenger door frame. (even the door frame one leaked). Parked right my hatch will hit a taillight. 
03-04-2013, 09:26 PM
#27
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Year: 2000
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Nice checklist. But In my honest opinion I think it all comes down to what you're buying the jeep for. if you're buying an xj for 500-1000 bucks all the little things don't matter as much.you known you're buying a project. hell you'll be getting a steal if it even starts and runs.
Bought another '94 two years ago for $375 not running. Put a new CPS, a different computer, fuel pump, and various tuneup parts onto it. Probably have $1k into it. It seems to run good, but still has a timing issue. Bent some pushrods, and now have to put it back together and get the timing back to where it should be, and then I will be set. Its gonna end up being either my or someone else's DD. I didn't buy it as a project, just another set of wheels/DD. I own International Scouts and pickups, and other than the computers on these XJ's, they are both equal in my eyes for off road work. Parts are easier to find on the XJ's, but the Scouts can take a lot more PO neglect and take less time to put back on the road. Its all in how you perceive your use of the vehicle as to how much to pay or what to walk away from.
The current '00 has what I believe to be a cracked head, won't probably know until Weds afternoon, but either way, only paid $1400 for it with 170k on it. It now has 178k on it now, and I have only owned it since 10/31/12(mileage from my last job, with a 90 mile per day commute). I won't look back. Its in pretty good mechanical shape, other than the PO's failed to do some cooling system maintenance, and so once I get it back, I am going to start getting the parts needed to put a RE 4.5" lift and such on it, so I can get out there and enjoy a few more trails than I do now. I will have probably close to $3k into this '00, but I felt where the body is at right now, I am probably coming out ahead vs buying a mint body one, with either minor or major mechanical issues, and right now this one is the primary DD, so it has got to be in as tip top shape as I can keep it.
My $0.02
Jeff
03-24-2014, 11:43 PM
#28
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
Check engine parts
This list is great. I just bought my first jeep a week ago! I should have done a lot more research here. But I didn't. This may be a uncommon error but I would add to the list, check each of the brackets for the different components such as the AC, Alternator water-pump, etc.. The reason is that my alternator bracket broke on me in two spots. But it seems to me that it had cracked a while back. So check for cracks in the brackets would be my two cents for the list.. By the way thank you to everyone for your help on this list. Especially BimmerJeeper! You did a great job!
Last edited by ammonllewis1; 03-24-2014 at 11:56 PM.
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