Upgrading brakes
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,844
Likes: 4
From: Glen Burnie, MD
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 H.O. K&N, Borla headers, custom down pipe, magnaflow hi-flo cat, flowmaster to turn down tip
Nice! Let me know if I can help. I used to work at a commercial brake supply company, and we'd usually have at least 6 different calipers on the shelves for jeeps at any given time. I'm still pretty close with most of those guys, I'm sure they'll let me get my hands on a few brackets, take some pics and measurements.
So you are talking about the silver calipers? I believe those are the continential calipers vs the teves, which were black. I might have that info backwards though.
Are you saying that the black calipers used the integral spindle/bracket?
Or is it purely a clearance issue?
So you are talking about the silver calipers? I believe those are the continential calipers vs the teves, which were black. I might have that info backwards though.
Are you saying that the black calipers used the integral spindle/bracket?
Or is it purely a clearance issue?
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,874
Likes: 100
From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
when i did mine, i just took the master/booster and combo valve since it was bolted to the booster, all from a 98 or 99 xj. it is just a dual diaphragm unit.
all i had to do was relocate the combo/proportioning valve to where my stock one was located, so i had to bend one brake line and had another longer one made, about 12 - 14 inches long. cost me 6 bux.
then just had to ream out the brake pedal hole and grind the end flat for the brake switch.
the pedal is longer, but not too noticeable after driving it for a bit.
i could've swapped out the pedal rods, but didn't feel like it. it's only about an inch longer anyways.
brakes feel 100 times better. i can lock up my 36's easily now.
i still have drums in the rear, so no need to swap combo valves.
all i had to do was relocate the combo/proportioning valve to where my stock one was located, so i had to bend one brake line and had another longer one made, about 12 - 14 inches long. cost me 6 bux.
then just had to ream out the brake pedal hole and grind the end flat for the brake switch.
the pedal is longer, but not too noticeable after driving it for a bit.
i could've swapped out the pedal rods, but didn't feel like it. it's only about an inch longer anyways.
brakes feel 100 times better. i can lock up my 36's easily now.
i still have drums in the rear, so no need to swap combo valves.
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,844
Likes: 4
From: Glen Burnie, MD
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 H.O. K&N, Borla headers, custom down pipe, magnaflow hi-flo cat, flowmaster to turn down tip
so caged, i have the proportioning valve that came with the new ( for my jeep) master/booster combo. i got it off a 98 jeep grand cherokee V8 with rear disc. are you saying to keep my own cherokee one but save the grand cherokee one till i go disc in the rear?
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,874
Likes: 100
From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
yup, the grand one may not work properly with drum brakes.
try it with yours first, if it doesn't work, you could always grab one off a newer xj from the yard.
try it with yours first, if it doesn't work, you could always grab one off a newer xj from the yard.
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