Bouasman_19

Okay so I got a 93 straight 6 stock motor. I was just wondering about the alternator because I'm starting to put a lot of STUFF in to the XJ. I have a 12,000 lbs winch that I will need to run, I have 8 off road lights 4 of them LEDs but soon all to be LEDs, but the big question was the fact that I'm about to be running two 12inch subs pushing 1200 watts with the amp subs are rated at 800 watts max. Now I have no clue but would those subs be draining power from my battery? I just want to know if I'm in the clear with the stock alternator but if I'm not what would I upgrade it to? Please through out your thoughts!?!?

salad

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/bud...herokee-58797/ Alternators in here

As for sound system, power capacitor. Winches like big batteries.

Kmaxwell12

Subs and amp will put a small strain on the alternator and batt, i can't speak of the winch but on my old 93 sport 2 door i had 4 kc daylighters, 2 cheapo backup spot lights, and 2 15's pushed by 2 1k memphis amps and the subs dimmed my lights when the bass was turned up past half way. I swapped out for a bigger alternator but i've seen some people in the audio world get by with just installing a high end capacitor for the amps. Or you could install a new battery for the audio equipment (http://pacificstereo.com/kinetik-hc6...FepZ7AodGxgAOg)

cruiser54

Good big battery and do the cable upgrade from www.kelleyswip.com BEFORE getting off on the alternator tangent.

Bouasman_19

What alternator and battery are you running?

Bouasman_19

What your choice of a good big battery? Did you do that cable upgrade? BTW the site is under construction so I couldn't see much in your link.

cruiser54

The link to my stuff is in my signature.

www.kelleyswip was under construction?

Yes, I have upgraded the cables and added grounds on all my Jeeps. I just use the highest CCA battery that will fit.

Kmaxwell12

I had a mechman 270 amp alt. They are big in the audio world and pretty pricey but should put out the power you need.

kirknd4spd

You'll definitely need to upgrade the alternator. My stock alternator can barely keep up with the lights, heater, and a 200 watt amp.
And I won't hook up my winch until I have dual batteries in my Jeep, but that's just me. I've never run a winch on a vehicle with only one battery.

Bouasman_19

Painless power manager setup anybody have this installed with dual batteries? I can easily install another battery because my intake box is out and I just how a tube with a filter on it not far out so plenty of room to mount a plate. I been reading on here too that yeah every body been changing the alt to 190 or 200 an above so that looks like a must.

cruiser54

Why not just keep both batteries in the system at the same time? That's what I did on my FJ40.

5-90

Your 1993 should have a 90A alternator OEM, so there's definitely room to upgrade!

You can fit up to a 117A alternator from, say, a 1999-up XJ w/6-242 engine without any trouble, you may need to adapt the field coil connections (early ND alternators used two M4 studs, later ND alternators used a plug with two 1/4" spade-style quick-connects. I believe the male lugs are in the alternator, so you'd need to use female parts to connect. Verify visually.)

I have posted donor lists for sourcing COTS/OEM units in 136A and 160A - however, if you're going to go past 117A, you are generally going to need to "clearance grind" the mounting area on the engine to fit it. Consensus seems to be that you'll need to remove about 1/4" of material - you just need enough to be able to slip a card between the alternator case and the engine block, once it's mounted. But, the dividing line for case sizes seems to be 117A/136A. (However, I have seen recent reports from the field saying that grinding to fit a 136A/160A unit may not be required - at least on the very later model XJ. So, check.)

If you're going to add that much electrical gear, you're going to want to upgrade your mains wiring (The OEM stuff is barely enough for OEM...) at the very least. Secondary distribution (to feed the lamps and such) is also helpful for keeping things clean.

As far as the winch? That's its own issue. The typical self-recovery winch typically draws in the range of 350-550A (full-weight, first-layer pull. Current requirement decreases as you go down in weight or gain advantage) so you're probably not going to get that with a single alternator. You will therefore want to either get a battery with as much reserve capacity (listed as "RC," rated in Ampere-hours or "A-h") as possible (for infrequent use,) or use an auxiliary battery (go deep cycle, put it on an isolator) with the winch wired directly to it for frequent use. The winch will be wired directly to the battery.

If you want help with the wiring or the design of your system, hit me backchannel and we can talk. I've done this sort of thing plenty of times before...

5-90

Because if the batteries aren't matched you can run into "dueling," and you can't replace just one battery if it fails. The isolator allows you to replace single batteries, and allows you to run mismatched batteries without any trouble.

Bouasman_19

How does something like running duals like they do in boats? On my neighbors Nordick has two batteries and they a switch for 1 and 2 and both. I don't think there is a solenoid on that set up.

Muddz

Although I don't think I would use this type of installation with my current equipment. Here is a link to an isolator/combiner that allows the main battery to be used for winching and the aux. battery as backup power with engine start capabilities. ... Solid state with other capabilities and features, cost is a more than conventional mechanical type isolators.

http://www.hellroaring.com/4wheel.php