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Old Aug 30, 2014 | 12:34 PM
  #16  
884x4's Avatar
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From: Justin, TEXAS
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by salad

Nope. The mid section plates the outside and bottom, the front and rear portions simply go along the outside. If you're installing any aftermarket accessories you'll need to consider the thickness of the stiffeners themselves: For example, frame tie-ins of rock rails need to be shortened 1/8" or so. Naturally you get 1/8" transfer case drop lol. Doing the fronts you'll want/need new bolts for the steering box, possibly bust the front brake hard lines... etc. However there's no change to front or rear suspension, your ability to bolt stuff on is not impacted.

If you're going to do stiffeners you definitely want to do them before other significant mods.
Yep, I'm about to do them and I wished I would have done them first.
Especially if you want rock sliders or long arms. Alot of companies want to know the brand of stiffeners when you order those things so they can accommodate.
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Old Aug 30, 2014 | 01:02 PM
  #17  
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Year: 2000
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Thanks Salad for the info. This looks like something I need to do.

Originally Posted by 884x4
Alot of companies want to know the brand of stiffeners when you order those things so they can accommodate.
What other brands get high recommendations?
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Old Aug 30, 2014 | 02:06 PM
  #18  
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From: Justin, TEXAS
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Originally Posted by extrashaky
Thanks Salad for the info. This looks like something I need to do.

What other brands get high recommendations?
For what? Stiffeners?
The HD engeneering stiffeners are great because they have rossette holes in them and they are 10 ga. Steel.
Ruff stuff are nice but they are 3/16th(some people say that's overkill) and they cost more.
Tnt customs are 3/16th and pretty cheap but do NOT have rossette holes pre drilled.
Take your pick. I'm picking HD engineering.
If your talking about long arms, specifically radius long arms just stay awy from rough country. Iron rock are not very sought after either.
I'm getting serious off roads because they are super high quality and a little cheaper thanks others. But the top of the line supposedly is Clayton long arms.
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Old Aug 30, 2014 | 10:59 PM
  #19  
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From: Florida
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Originally Posted by 884x4
For what? Stiffeners?
The HD engeneering stiffeners are great because they have rossette holes in them and they are 10 ga. Steel.
Ruff stuff are nice but they are 3/16th(some people say that's overkill) and they cost more.
Tnt customs are 3/16th and pretty cheap but do NOT have rossette holes pre drilled.
Take your pick. I'm picking HD engineering.
If your talking about long arms, specifically radius long arms just stay awy from rough country. Iron rock are not very sought after either.
I'm getting serious off roads because they are super high quality and a little cheaper thanks others. But the top of the line supposedly is Clayton long arms.
Thanks for the info on the frame stiffeners. This is very helpful. I'll have to read up.

As for suspension, I'm pretty much sold on the Rubicon Express 5.5" long arm kit. It has good reviews and seems to provide everything I want in a lift.
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Old Sep 1, 2014 | 09:21 PM
  #20  
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From: Hereford, MD
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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So the current plan is just to take the money and run it till i buy another 97-01 XJ. Then keep it around for parts. I have a feeling this is how people end up owning like 5 jeeps, jeepaholicism here i come...
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Old Sep 2, 2014 | 05:59 AM
  #21  
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From: Maryland
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Even if it does total you still have the right to keep it they just pay out a little less because they won't make any money selling it to a scrap yard. So if you were to get $3500 pay out by signing the vehicle over to them then you would probably only see $3000 if you kept it. Not including any deductibles. But being a rear hit it's usually not your fault and don't owe the deductible.
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Old Sep 2, 2014 | 08:29 AM
  #22  
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From: Monett, MO.
Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0
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Yes if they total it buy it back from them it won't be much.
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Old Sep 2, 2014 | 01:48 PM
  #23  
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Year: 1995
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When a vehicle is totalled out, most states require some sort of vehicle inspection to re-license for the road again.

If the uni-body sub frame is only bent in a localized area near the rear bumper it would not be as much of a problem to straighten and/or re-enforce the uni-body as if the entire sub-frame diagonally, front to back and side to side is out of alignment.

In many vehicles the OE bumpers are designed to collapse and take some of the stress from an impact placed onto a uni-body or frame.

I would first remove the rear bumper and try to assess the amount of damage to the sub-frame, or take it to a specialist, (with the bumper removed) should be able to determine how extensive the damage is.

I would also inspect the suspension, rear axle, rear springs & connections for movement, damage, wear, excessive rust, etc.

After being hit in the rear sometimes the rear axle rotates effecting the angle of the rear driveline. If the impact is great enough to push the rear axle forward, the force is sent through the driveshaft & connections into the TC.

The damage shown in the pics doesn't appear to be too excessive, however the entire frame, steering, suspension, driveline, etc. should be inspected when performing any repairs.

Last edited by Muddz; Sep 2, 2014 at 02:21 PM.
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