Underheating
#1
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L, CAI, Edelbrock Breather, Optima Yellowtop
Underheating
This problem is usually native to diesels; but I'm pretty sure my Jeep is underheating. It's been really cold here in michigan for the past few days (I'm talking 2-5 degrees and about 10-20 degrees below zero with the wind chill taken into consideration). My XJ struggles to have any heat blowing inside even after driving for 10-15 minutes. I put my heater on full blast and in vent mode (which is usually the hottest) and I'll get mildly warm air, not enough to warm the interior at all.
Is there a fix for this? I might even have bubbles in my cooling system and if it's the case, how am I going to burp it?
Thanks in advance.
Is there a fix for this? I might even have bubbles in my cooling system and if it's the case, how am I going to burp it?
Thanks in advance.
#2
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Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0L HO
T-stat possibly/probably stuck open. Can u borrow a infrared point-n-shoot thermometer to verify engine coolant temp? Point it at the t-stat housing.
#3
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Update: you already know about the issue I'm talking about lmao
Last edited by 1996XJSport; 01-23-2011 at 06:31 PM.
#4
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Surely your shop class has a point-n-shoot infrared thermometer.....no? I forgot, no temp sending unit, right? Usually, air in the system causes overheating.
Last edited by djb383; 01-23-2011 at 06:43 PM.
#6
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Do you have a coolant temp gauge in the dash? If so, what does it read?
Cab heat is simply a byproduct of engine heat, so verifying coolant temp. is job #1.
If no gauge, then verify with an infrared as djb383 mentioned......
The target for the 4.0 is around the 200-210 farenheit range.
Gotta start there.
Cab heat is simply a byproduct of engine heat, so verifying coolant temp. is job #1.
If no gauge, then verify with an infrared as djb383 mentioned......
The target for the 4.0 is around the 200-210 farenheit range.
Gotta start there.
#7
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Yeah, no temp sending unit, I can tell either if it's running at an "alright" temp or if it's about to have a meltdown haha.
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#8
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Year: 97
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If its reaching operating temp and you have back flushed the heater core, id check the blend door on the heater hose going into the core. It may be stuck.
#9
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Do you have a coolant temp gauge in the dash? If so, what does it read?
Cab heat is simply a byproduct of engine heat, so verifying coolant temp. is job #1.
If no gauge, then verify with an infrared as djb383 mentioned......
The target for the 4.0 is around the 200-210 farenheit range.
Gotta start there.
Cab heat is simply a byproduct of engine heat, so verifying coolant temp. is job #1.
If no gauge, then verify with an infrared as djb383 mentioned......
The target for the 4.0 is around the 200-210 farenheit range.
Gotta start there.
#11
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Year: 1996
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I flushed out my entire cooling system back in November. I used a coolant exchanger at my school's shop to get the job done. It pumped out all of the dirty existing coolant and then I flushed the system one more time with a garden hose and repeated the process before filling it with new coolant. I'm going to see how hot my heater hose is after taking it out for a spin. If it's hot, im betting that blend door is stuck.
#12
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Will do. The reason I can tell the difference between meltdown and safe is because the stock Cherokee SE's had an idiot light that would come on if you were overheating. Since the temp sending unit hasn't been changed from the "on/off" type to the actual reading type, The needle on the new gauge cluster will just go from all the way to the left to all the way on the right in the event of an overheat.
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Year: 97
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I flushed out my entire cooling system back in November. I used a coolant exchanger at my school's shop to get the job done. It pumped out all of the dirty existing coolant and then I flushed the system one more time with a garden hose and repeated the process before filling it with new coolant. I'm going to see how hot my heater hose is after taking it out for a spin. If it's hot, im betting that blend door is stuck.
#14
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Year: 1989
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It's the cold and the excellent XJ cooling systems. I drove from Central NY to Southern PA today and it didn't reach operating temp til I got where it's 30 degrees. Also, check the vacuum line on the mixer (by the dip stick). If that isn't on, or leaks, the doors in the heater won't open right and it won't blow hot air.
To get the air bubbles out, start it cold without the radiator cap on and with the heat on high, wait til it opens the thermostat and fill. Do this once a day for 2 or 3 days and there will be no more air bubbles
To get the air bubbles out, start it cold without the radiator cap on and with the heat on high, wait til it opens the thermostat and fill. Do this once a day for 2 or 3 days and there will be no more air bubbles
Last edited by sv41878; 01-23-2011 at 07:04 PM.