Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here XJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.

Underheating

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-23-2011, 05:40 PM
  #1  
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
 
1996XJSport's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: West Bloomfield,MI
Posts: 1,992
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L, CAI, Edelbrock Breather, Optima Yellowtop
Default Underheating

This problem is usually native to diesels; but I'm pretty sure my Jeep is underheating. It's been really cold here in michigan for the past few days (I'm talking 2-5 degrees and about 10-20 degrees below zero with the wind chill taken into consideration). My XJ struggles to have any heat blowing inside even after driving for 10-15 minutes. I put my heater on full blast and in vent mode (which is usually the hottest) and I'll get mildly warm air, not enough to warm the interior at all.

Is there a fix for this? I might even have bubbles in my cooling system and if it's the case, how am I going to burp it?

Thanks in advance.
Old 01-23-2011, 06:17 PM
  #2  
CF Veteran
 
djb383's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: The Republic of TEXAS
Posts: 8,172
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes on 14 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Default

T-stat possibly/probably stuck open. Can u borrow a infrared point-n-shoot thermometer to verify engine coolant temp? Point it at the t-stat housing.
Old 01-23-2011, 06:29 PM
  #3  
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
 
1996XJSport's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: West Bloomfield,MI
Posts: 1,992
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L, CAI, Edelbrock Breather, Optima Yellowtop
Default

Originally Posted by djb383
T-stat possibly/probably stuck open. Can u borrow a infrared point-n-shoot thermometer to verify engine coolant temp? Point it at the t-stat housing.
I don't think it's the thermostat. The problem might have been caused by an incident a couple weeks ago where this kid in my shop class touched my radiator cap and didn't tighten it up and I drove home, ending up with almost no coolant. I had to add coolant the old fashioned way (without a coolant exchange machine) and I bet there's bubbles in there but I did hear that it will fix itself just by running the engine. I doubt that's true lol. Any way I can get rid of the bubbles without the help of a machine?

Update: you already know about the issue I'm talking about lmao

Last edited by 1996XJSport; 01-23-2011 at 06:31 PM.
Old 01-23-2011, 06:40 PM
  #4  
CF Veteran
 
djb383's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: The Republic of TEXAS
Posts: 8,172
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes on 14 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Default

Surely your shop class has a point-n-shoot infrared thermometer.....no? I forgot, no temp sending unit, right? Usually, air in the system causes overheating.

Last edited by djb383; 01-23-2011 at 06:43 PM.
Old 01-23-2011, 06:40 PM
  #5  
Newbie
 
Teflonchef's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Vermont
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.O L Inside
Default

Back flush the heater core.
Old 01-23-2011, 06:42 PM
  #6  
CF Veteran
 
tjwalker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: In the middle of Minnesota!
Posts: 5,805
Received 99 Likes on 88 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

Do you have a coolant temp gauge in the dash? If so, what does it read?

Cab heat is simply a byproduct of engine heat, so verifying coolant temp. is job #1.

If no gauge, then verify with an infrared as djb383 mentioned......

The target for the 4.0 is around the 200-210 farenheit range.

Gotta start there.
Old 01-23-2011, 06:46 PM
  #7  
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
 
1996XJSport's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: West Bloomfield,MI
Posts: 1,992
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L, CAI, Edelbrock Breather, Optima Yellowtop
Default

Originally Posted by djb383
Surely your shop class has a point-n-shoot infrared thermometer.....no? I forgot, no temp sending unit, right? Usually, air in the system causes overheating.
They have an infared thermometer, but I don't have class at all this week so I'll probably just stop by a friend's house because he has a heated garage and one of those point and shoot thermometers lol.

Yeah, no temp sending unit, I can tell either if it's running at an "alright" temp or if it's about to have a meltdown haha.
Old 01-23-2011, 06:48 PM
  #8  
Member
 
jeans's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Orono, Ontario
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default

If its reaching operating temp and you have back flushed the heater core, id check the blend door on the heater hose going into the core. It may be stuck.
Old 01-23-2011, 06:49 PM
  #9  
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
 
1996XJSport's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: West Bloomfield,MI
Posts: 1,992
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L, CAI, Edelbrock Breather, Optima Yellowtop
Default

Originally Posted by tjwalker
Do you have a coolant temp gauge in the dash? If so, what does it read?

Cab heat is simply a byproduct of engine heat, so verifying coolant temp. is job #1.

If no gauge, then verify with an infrared as djb383 mentioned......

The target for the 4.0 is around the 200-210 farenheit range.

Gotta start there.
Yeah my other XJ runs normally at around 210 at full engine temp. It doesn't look or feel like my Jeep is overheating whenever I drive it. The hood feels about normal temp or even colder if I put my hands on it after driving around and there's never steam billowing out of the grille when I stop so I have no clue. I guess I'll find out when I get to use a thermometer lol
Old 01-23-2011, 06:51 PM
  #10  
CF Veteran
 
djb383's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: The Republic of TEXAS
Posts: 8,172
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes on 14 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Default

Point the infrared at the heater hoses also. How can u determine all-right vs meltdown?
Old 01-23-2011, 06:53 PM
  #11  
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
 
1996XJSport's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: West Bloomfield,MI
Posts: 1,992
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L, CAI, Edelbrock Breather, Optima Yellowtop
Default

Originally Posted by jeans
If its reaching operating temp and you have back flushed the heater core, id check the blend door on the heater hose going into the core. It may be stuck.
I flushed out my entire cooling system back in November. I used a coolant exchanger at my school's shop to get the job done. It pumped out all of the dirty existing coolant and then I flushed the system one more time with a garden hose and repeated the process before filling it with new coolant. I'm going to see how hot my heater hose is after taking it out for a spin. If it's hot, im betting that blend door is stuck.
Old 01-23-2011, 06:56 PM
  #12  
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
 
1996XJSport's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: West Bloomfield,MI
Posts: 1,992
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L, CAI, Edelbrock Breather, Optima Yellowtop
Arrow

Originally Posted by djb383
Point the infrared at the heater hoses also. How can u determine all-right vs meltdown?
Will do. The reason I can tell the difference between meltdown and safe is because the stock Cherokee SE's had an idiot light that would come on if you were overheating. Since the temp sending unit hasn't been changed from the "on/off" type to the actual reading type, The needle on the new gauge cluster will just go from all the way to the left to all the way on the right in the event of an overheat.
Old 01-23-2011, 06:59 PM
  #13  
Member
 
jeans's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Orono, Ontario
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default

Originally Posted by 1996XJSport
I flushed out my entire cooling system back in November. I used a coolant exchanger at my school's shop to get the job done. It pumped out all of the dirty existing coolant and then I flushed the system one more time with a garden hose and repeated the process before filling it with new coolant. I'm going to see how hot my heater hose is after taking it out for a spin. If it's hot, im betting that blend door is stuck.
Even a coolant evac machine my not get all the guck out of the heater core. (There a decent machine, but you can do just as good a job without one). Look up heater core backflushing in the search. Ill bet you find a good write up. Most of the ineffective heat complaints for XJ`s are clogged heater cores.
Old 01-23-2011, 07:02 PM
  #14  
Senior Member
 
sv41878's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Central Pennsylvania
Posts: 670
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.7 H.O.
Default

It's the cold and the excellent XJ cooling systems. I drove from Central NY to Southern PA today and it didn't reach operating temp til I got where it's 30 degrees. Also, check the vacuum line on the mixer (by the dip stick). If that isn't on, or leaks, the doors in the heater won't open right and it won't blow hot air.

To get the air bubbles out, start it cold without the radiator cap on and with the heat on high, wait til it opens the thermostat and fill. Do this once a day for 2 or 3 days and there will be no more air bubbles

Last edited by sv41878; 01-23-2011 at 07:04 PM.
Old 01-23-2011, 08:06 PM
  #15  
CF Veteran
 
djb383's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: The Republic of TEXAS
Posts: 8,172
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes on 14 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Default

Originally Posted by sv41878
........and the excellent XJ cooling systems......
That's a good one.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:52 AM.