U joint service
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: connecticut
Posts: 691
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
U joint service
Ok well its that time of year for me the front u joints need changing before the snow hits, does anyone have any tricks that make the front joints an easy service? If possible I'd like to avoid pulling the whole front end apart to do it, is that an option or do I need to pull the knuckle off and pull the axles out? Help is appreciated no rush as I plan on doing this next week on my day off
#6
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Illinois
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
I did it every day for a few days. It may have the factory twelve point bolts that need removed. Be careful to not strip them. You might have to weld a socket to them. Just pop it with a mig welder. Also, instead of having to pull the axle out on your own, use the power steeringpump . Use a 3/8 extension and turn the wheel. It'll pop it loose alot easier.
Trending Topics
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Utah
Posts: 735
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L
If you replace the hubs be sure to use tomken brand. A little more pricey, but they last much longer. I don't think you have to go as far as the knuckle to remove the axle u joints.. they should be accessible after the hub assembly IIRC.
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: connecticut
Posts: 691
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
What about the moog brand wheel hubs? Not exactly cheap brand and they got a decent warranty if anything, just wondering since my job doesn't sell timken bearings wanted to do one stop shopping
#14
CF Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,150
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes
on
9 Posts
Year: 1989 Laredo
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L 6 Renix
to do the axle u joints I leave the hubs attached, pull the hubs with axles complete, you don't have to retorque the center nut that way and many people don't have a large socket. Change the joints, greats, cleanup the hub recess and od of the hub real good, apply antiseize and reinstall full axle and hub as an assembly. While it's apart, if your hub feels rough in rotation it needs replace. I also vote for timken bearing, skf also a good choice. Don't go cheap on hubs, not worth your time and cheap you will have to do again soon.
Ive got over three years, all conditions, 278000km and still goin on good set of hubs.
I'm not pleased with moog parts in recent years, they are subcontracting to lesser quality companies and I'm seeing it in the parts. With bearings I'd go top brand.
Moog still works for me on control arms, ball joints, rod ends. For universals i've found over twice the life using Precision brand over delco and even over spicer. Always go for the greasable universal. good luck
Ive got over three years, all conditions, 278000km and still goin on good set of hubs.
I'm not pleased with moog parts in recent years, they are subcontracting to lesser quality companies and I'm seeing it in the parts. With bearings I'd go top brand.
Moog still works for me on control arms, ball joints, rod ends. For universals i've found over twice the life using Precision brand over delco and even over spicer. Always go for the greasable universal. good luck