spaceharrier

Short version: replaced ignition switch and now turn signals don't work. Hazards work fine.

Long version:

Replacing the ignition switch on a recently-acquired '89 Laredo. The starter wouldn't trigger reliably with the key so the kid I bought it off had rigged a separate switch. Based on reading here that sounded like a bad ignition switch so I set about replacing it last night.

Got it back together and had the high-beam actuator rod not properly placed. Also the ignition switch itself not adjusted right fore-and-aft, since it turning the key all the way didn't move it all the way to 'start'. Plus, no turn signals.

Cut to this morning taking another crack at it, seem to have the ignition switch and high beam actuator in place. Key now cranks and starts engine (the whole point). I think I have the high beam rod in place because I can flash high beam (though not engage high-beam full time). Nothing happens using the turn signal switch in either direction. Hazards work fine.

Hoped I run into something obvious when readjusting the ignition switch, but haven't. Turn signals were working before I went about this. Flashing quickly on both sides, but working at all four bulbs. And hazards work and flash normally. Thoughts? Is there a separate fuse/flasher relay for turns vs. hazards?

spaceharrier

I actually ended up tracking this down. Much messing about with wire tracing and voltmeters later I noticed I'd deflected a blade inside the new ignition switch. Not much, and the switch still went on OK, but that blade wasn't making a connection as it slid into the wrong side of its slot.

In case anyone else makes the same idiot mistake

freegdr

Good catch, most would of started tearing wires out and getting meters out b4 double checking there work...And Welcome to the forum.

cruiser54

Stuck with it and admitted your error. I'm impressed.

Welcome.

I'm gonna take this opportunity to post up an index of my write-ups for everyone's benefit.

　
Revised 09-17-2013

• Instructions have been written *
• Photos included with instructions **

1-Ground refreshing*
2-C101 connector refreshing**
3-Connector and relay/receptacle refreshing**
4-Coil/ICM contacts*
5-Checking sensor grounds*

6-Sensor ground upgrade**
7-CPS testing and adjusting**
8-TPS testing and adjusting**
9-ECU connector refreshing*
10-Trans plug connector refreshing*
11-Throttle body and IAC cleaning*
12-Setting your 4.0 to #1 TDC**
13-Renix Distributor indexing**
14-Restoring throttle butterfly adjustment*
15-Rear main seal diagnosis*
16-Vacuum test for exhaust restriction*
17-HO engine into Renix*
18-Improving the instrument panel ground**
19-Headlight harness installation*
20-4WD shifting tips*
21- Renix EGR valve test*
22- Renix vacuum harnesses**
23- CPS timing advance mod**
24-4.0 Engine date codes**
25-Valve cover mod**
26- Snugging up intake manifold bolts
27- CPS wiring bypass
28- Setting base idle
29- Renix O2 sensor diagnostics
30-Oil filler cap fix
31-Using water to remove carbon

　


Click on the pink link in my signature for a bunch of handy tips aimed at your Renix Jeep. Any questions, post them up.

lualchro

Found a Power Distribution diagram online not too long ago, I was having issues with my car shutting down when the blower and windshield wipers were on for more than 20 min, turns out I had a combination of worn down components, including the ignition switch and the corroded fuse box.

Anyway, here's the power distribution, you can see that the wire coming from the ignition switch that is feeding the turn lights is the brown one, and it is a different one from the one feeding the Hazard lights.

It is posted for everyone else benefit, do not remember the source, but it was online, hope not to get in trouble for posting this valuable piece of info for general benefit.

Also it gives the details of every wire link coming from the starter solenoid, very very useful!