turbo 4.0?
#1
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turbo 4.0?
OK here goes. My 00' Cherokee died at 123k due to blown head gasket. If or when I get the thing running again I wanna Turbo it with a hx35 Turbo. Now my question(s) are; pistons. Do they need to be forged if I run low boost (8-10 psi) injectors; is 44 lb/hr big enough or will I even need larger injectors or is fuel pressure an issue I can tune without the higher flowing injectors? Intercooler; can I get by with a aftercooler? Or will I need to fab up a intercooler? Any suggestions/info/comments are welcome. Thank you.
#2
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
ive built a turbo honda not that it has anything to do with jeeps but i used an intercooler. ive never heard of an aftercooler before. if u run lower boost then 8 psi you probably could get away with not using an intercooler. but I would recomend it.
#3
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
OK here goes. My 00' Cherokee died at 123k due to blown head gasket. If or when I get the thing running again I wanna Turbo it with a hx35 Turbo. Now my question(s) are; pistons. Do they need to be forged if I run low boost (8-10 psi) injectors; is 44 lb/hr big enough or will I even need larger injectors or is fuel pressure an issue I can tune without the higher flowing injectors? Intercooler; can I get by with a aftercooler? Or will I need to fab up a intercooler? Any suggestions/info/comments are welcome. Thank you.
#7
OK here goes. My 00' Cherokee died at 123k due to blown head gasket. If or when I get the thing running again I wanna Turbo it with a hx35 Turbo. Now my question(s) are; pistons. Do they need to be forged if I run low boost (8-10 psi) injectors; is 44 lb/hr big enough or will I even need larger injectors or is fuel pressure an issue I can tune without the higher flowing injectors? Intercooler; can I get by with a aftercooler? Or will I need to fab up a intercooler? Any suggestions/info/comments are welcome. Thank you.
when you say "aftercooler" you mean...what exactly?
I suggest a water-air cooler for slow moving turbo setups. Frozenboost.com sells really great cheap packages that are much more efficient than air-air systems. Although intercooling is not mandatory, its a lot safer to cool the incoming air. Gasoline has an autoignition temperature of around 475*F. Without proper cooling of this extremely hot incomming pressurized air, you really have to be careful as detonation can easily occur; this is why you see guys running E85 turbo or high compresson setups.
Aside from all the complexity of assembling a safe turbo setup the biggest pitfall in performance can be the turbo selection. you should really look at the compression maps for the turbo and do the math for the flow rates of the 4.0L; it may not be what you want to use. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...o_tech102.html has some great information for selecting the right turbo.
My advise is for you to make sure you have another vehicle lined up before you take this on. Also you need to figure out how to separate the turbo heat from your intake manifold... This manifold problem is common with old Datsun's, it becomes difficult to keep intake temperatures down and still plumb everything correctly...
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#8
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Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0
there are a few people that have done it and can run 10 lbs without a problem and even some higher. check them out over on pirate4x4, it is alot of good interesting reading.
#9
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
You're not going to turbo this thing. 99.9% of the people asking about installing a turbo on their Jeep never do it because of the cost and the age of the person asking the turbo question.
#11
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Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0
I doubt the pistons are your problem... People always go straight to the piston as if "upgrading" them will prevent catastrophic failure. Currently I'm running right at under 400rwhp in my 2.0L 4 cylinder with stock aluminum pistons. I would focus on components like head studs, head gasket, and main studs. I would also consider upgrading your bearings; check into ACL. The next big thing to focus on is engine managment. I can't tell you how many turbo setups I've seen fail from lack of computer monitoring/control. The stock ECU has never encountered a boost curve so the ignition timing is way too aggressive; I point this out b/c it will be quite necessary to have control over this and not just rely on upgrading injectors or increasing base fuel pressure.
when you say "aftercooler" you mean...what exactly?
I suggest a water-air cooler for slow moving turbo setups. Frozenboost.com sells really great cheap packages that are much more efficient than air-air systems. Although intercooling is not mandatory, its a lot safer to cool the incoming air. Gasoline has an autoignition temperature of around 475*F. Without proper cooling of this extremely hot incomming pressurized air, you really have to be careful as detonation can easily occur; this is why you see guys running E85 turbo or high compresson setups.
Aside from all the complexity of assembling a safe turbo setup the biggest pitfall in performance can be the turbo selection. you should really look at the compression maps for the turbo and do the math for the flow rates of the 4.0L; it may not be what you want to use. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...o_tech102.html has some great information for selecting the right turbo.
My advise is for you to make sure you have another vehicle lined up before you take this on. Also you need to figure out how to separate the turbo heat from your intake manifold... This manifold problem is common with old Datsun's, it becomes difficult to keep intake temperatures down and still plumb everything correctly...
when you say "aftercooler" you mean...what exactly?
I suggest a water-air cooler for slow moving turbo setups. Frozenboost.com sells really great cheap packages that are much more efficient than air-air systems. Although intercooling is not mandatory, its a lot safer to cool the incoming air. Gasoline has an autoignition temperature of around 475*F. Without proper cooling of this extremely hot incomming pressurized air, you really have to be careful as detonation can easily occur; this is why you see guys running E85 turbo or high compresson setups.
Aside from all the complexity of assembling a safe turbo setup the biggest pitfall in performance can be the turbo selection. you should really look at the compression maps for the turbo and do the math for the flow rates of the 4.0L; it may not be what you want to use. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...o_tech102.html has some great information for selecting the right turbo.
My advise is for you to make sure you have another vehicle lined up before you take this on. Also you need to figure out how to separate the turbo heat from your intake manifold... This manifold problem is common with old Datsun's, it becomes difficult to keep intake temperatures down and still plumb everything correctly...
#12
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Year: 1995
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Engine: 2.5 4 cyl.
x2, i would be willing to bet you can stroke it for less then you can turbo it. Plus if the turbo were to ever get splashed after you been driving down the highway for a little while or something it would crack ( seen a turbo glow orange after driving on the highway for about an hour)
#13
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Year: 2000
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Engine: 4.0
i kno a quick way to make a turbo glow orange, a couple big a$$ burnouts and a few dounts to get the tires nice a hot then a race to 150mph, when done pulled over to let cool and you could see the glow under the car, popped the hood and i was like WOOOW!!!
#14
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Year: 1997, 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
It really wouldn't be all that hard if you real wanted to do it. Make yourself a exhaust manifold, get some Mandrel bent pipe, intercooler, some injectors and a apex s-arc. Run low boost and for tuning use the afc hack. I strongly suggest a why gauge and a wide band o2 sensor as well and the knowledge of how to use/read them.