Hi.

I'm still fighting a vibe and thus my ears perk up every time someone mentions a "fix" that solved their vibe.

Is it true that there's only one way for a drive shaft to be re-installed.

More specifically, there's a number of splines on the output shaft of the transfer case and 2 positions it can attach at the yoke. Is it true that the drive shaft MUST go on the exact (I don't want to say "set of splines", but....) on the exact set of splines? You know, like technically, out of say 46 different possible combination's of spline and yoke alignment, all but one combination will cause the DS to vibrate?

TIA

-bob-

 

if you bolt both end of the drive shaft in to install it the end with the sliding part usually bolts to the rear axle

 

That refers to telescoping drive shafts like your front and ones used with a SLE. The splines in the telescoping part need to be right. The front and rear u-joints on the shaft need to be the same orientation or you get a vibration.

 

Don't think so, the drive shaft is suppose to be balanced so the spline orientation shouldn't make any difference. The u-joints should be aligned as far as the yolks.

 

Hi freegdr,

This is more like a rotational alignment.

Install DS, drive, vibrates, remove DS, rotate slip yoke to next spline, re-install, drive, still vibrates, remove DS, rotate slip yoke, re-install, etc, etc, and at some point one (and only one) combination will remove the vibe.

I'm trying to get a true or false.

-bob-

 

look for mising weight on drive shaft looks like small circle of metal tacked to shaft

 

So in exact alignment between the yokes? I had a thought on how to check it. It involved a laser pointer and a plumbing tee. Do you have a technique other than just eying it that you use?

thanks

-bob-

 

if the drive shaft slide on to a shaft in the front and bolts to the rear end makes no difference what splines go where slide it in and bolt up rear

 

Well I tried 2 different DS's thinking the same thing.....that it threw a weight, but there was no change with either (I installed new u-joints in each). I also removed the front to eliminate that as a possible cause.

 

sure tires are not in need of balance or bent rim

 

Brand new tires, fresh balance all the way around. Had an alignment done by a reputable shop.

I've done sooooo much work to this truck trying to get this vibe so now I'm down to the crazy stuff.

Stuff done:

shocks
leaf u-bolts (they were moving around)
u-joints (new rear [even a different rear DS] and removed front DS)
tranny mount
Hub bearings x2
tie rod
drag link
steering stabilizer (the 3 above all Crown HD)
track bar (w/ axle mod)
upper and lower control arm bushings
new tires and had them balanced x2
alignment
front and rear brakes
sway bar link ends
harmonic balancer
check inside tranny inspection cover, checked bolts, seemed OK

So I saw a post that mentioned about the rotational alignment of a rear DS with a standard slip yoke and wanted to know if any one else has either heard of it or actually had the problem.

-bob-

 

rims?

 

I actually had 8 rims from a ZJ (4 I knew for sure were good) but I tried all 8 (yeah.... had them balanced each time I had the tires switched). No real change.

I know the leafs are shot, but so weren't the ones in every other XJ i've owned. But if that's where this is coming form, that'll be a first.

-bob-

 

I keep getting a banging from what would probably be around the front eyelet of the rear leaf on the passenger side. I tied up the exhaust pretty good so it's not hitting the crossmember or the axle.

 

that would cause more of a bouncing issue is that what it is maybe shocks bad or pining bearing or rear Tc bearing remove drive shaft check for up and down movement in rear yoke and tail shaft of Tc ever have some onf follow behind when drivivg see if all looks like it going strait maybe bent axle