Demonoid369

So I think my first gear went out, the fluid is full and still pink no discoloration or dirtyness. It got a drain and fill at 190,000 and I'm at 201,000 now. Haven't put it in 1-2 to confirm it is just 1st gear but I'm betting high it is because in D at a stop the rpm go fairly high and instead of going like it should, is slowly works its way like its slipping a crap ton then it shifts ish and then works normal.
The question is this a failing transmission needing replacement or is it the shift solenoid? Or what other things can cause this? This is my dd and only rig so any fast advice is greatly appreciated and needed

Radi

Try it in 1-2. If it works normally when you shift by hand its an electrical problem.

srb531

my 98 had the same problem, replaced the 3 solenoids & it fixed it. did it myself after learning how right here on this site. cost me about $ 250 for parts, btw a tranny shop wanted $ 2200 to rebuild my trans. i would have got ripped big time.

xjsnake

It may well be a solenoid. If so they are stupidly easy to change.

Demonoid369

Crap forgot to mention, 4.0L auto, 97'

rompnXJ

My '97 with 195k miles had this problem, at first Reverse started slipping, then Drive started slipping, then I had no movement at all. Disconnected trans cooler lines, found the transmission would only pump oil for about 10 seconds and then quit. scanned for codes, had a code for a trans solenoid.. replaced all 3, still nothing. I found another thread where somebody had the exact same problem, and it turned out to be the filter. I changed my filter, which didnt even look clogged, and I got all my gears back.

Radi

I see on another forum you mentioned that once the trans cooled down it shifted again?
If that's the case- you 99% likely have a solenoid that's sticking when it gets warm.

Demonoid369

Would that also cause at steady speeds the rpm to fluctuate? Like its downshifting for a split second then shifting back up?

Radi

About 300 rpm? If so it's likely the TCC, torque converter clutch locking and unlocking. That's the third solenoid in the trans.

Demonoid369

What all sensors can affect the transmission in the way of slipping and rpm fluctuation? Talking to a couple of transmission guys(too poor to pay for scan) it sounds like a sensor issue, because after the first slipping incident, I haven't had any slipping since but at time at steady speed(slow/fast) the rpm does fluctuate, not a big difference but it does.

Radi

The only two sensors involved are the TPS and the Transmission speed sensor.
There is additionally a brake pedal switch that disengages the TCC.
A malfunctioning TPS normally shows as engine/drivability problems as well, a bad trans speed sensor normally leaves you stuck in 1'st gear.
Take a look at the brake pedal switch though, that might cause your TCC to lock and unlock with the minor RPM changes.
On a hunch and not having actually looked at your trans, I think it's more likely that your solenoids are sticking when they get warm.

Demonoid369

Well if anyone is willing to walk me through the process of what to check with a volt meter and what volt it's suppose to be on sensors or what not I would greatly appreciate it. Because I haven't a clue where to begin with checking the electronics.

Took videos, I am also thinking my TC isn't locking:

^this was at 40 mph and in 3rd and I tapped the brake to see if the TC would unlock

This was in D and you can see the rpm move just a little and that was when I tapped the brake petal

The video for doing the Same speed as above but in 3rd doesn't show well but in third it was at 3k Rpms and when I touched the brake petal it only moved up as much as the video above did.

I have noticed though that the transmission tunnel gets pretty Dang warm, like I can feel it radiating against my leg as I drive which makes me wonder if the TC isn't locking up also.

Radi

That's the TCC unlocking, the bump in your tach. Looks normal when you tap the brake, unlocks for a moment then locks back up. If it's doing that without you stepping on the brake, check the brake pedal switch first.
Your RPM's are also correct for 65 MPH with stock tires and gearing.

Does the engine operate properly? Accelerates briskly when you step on the gas? No backfiring, no indication it's too rich or lean, no stalling or sputtering when you step on the gas? No CEL's related to the engine?

Your symptoms are consistent with a solenoid that's sticking when hot.
Do you have access to a laser thermometer? If so, see what your trans pan temp is after a good drive.

Demonoid369

Well took it to aamco for their free check point service thingy. Now everything he said I'm taking it with a grain of salt since I could see they weren't happy that I wanted only the free check, but for the short drive and showing him what speed it happens the most, he did say it is electric(fml right?!? Lol) the issue is that it's frequent enough to notice but infrequent enough to not register on the computer that there is a problem :-/ he says its a misfire causing it and it could be the cam sensor or crank sensor, but said that the only way to really know is for it to get worse and show itself(don't know if that's true)
Anyone have any ideas?