Those same tools can be used for fuel lines, as well as the a/c. But, if you still refuse to buy them...

Try squeezing the tabs together. That might work, it might not. It did not work for me. If it doesnt work for you, try the following.

Buy two new fittings for the transmission (Dorman 800-714). Then take a 7/8" wrench and remove the old fittings from the transmission, with the lines still in place.

Or, make your own quick disconnect tool using a Sharpie cap. Cut it to length, about 1" or so. Then cut a slit along the side so you can slip it over the line. Slip it over the line and into the fitting. Push to line torwards the clip. You might have to fiddle with it if its got dirt in it.

 

FYI. The picture you posted is the lower fitting for heat exchanger in radiator. But the diagram #12 is an auxiliary cooler, which you may not have on your jeep.

The sharpie cap is a good idea as an improvised tool. I was using a piece of credit card material, bent into a circle.

 

You can disconnect by squeezing the 2 tabs together.
The trick is to thoroughly clean the entire tab area.
That should enable you to get them to release.
If not, I think I paid $3 for a plastic set of quick disconnect tools.

 

Not relevant.


The line pressure in the cooler lines is maybe 20-30 PSI. 50 max.

Rubber transmission line and ordinary hose clamps will hold it until the Jeep rusts away around it.

 

posted on the wrong thread..

 

Mine is leaking right there at the Dorman 800-714. I changed it once but it's leaking again. Any tips?

 

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/tra...3/#post3660122

Or replace the the whole sha-bang with AN fittings. Regular hose works perfectly fine with clampless AN fittings, you don't need the $$$ stuff. Either one is less robust than steel lines; pick your poison...

 

I'll have to have a buddy help me out. I have replaced this twice now and it's not holding up. This time I replaced it a few days ago and thought I'd pushed the line in far enough but I put it in reverse, moved it 10 feet, got out to check underneath and it had popped out slightly and all this came out with it when I pulled it all the way out. So you mean I can modify this somehow to not use quick connectors? 🤔 😳☺ That would rock.

 

Replaced mine several yrs ago. If you live in the rust-belt regions of the north, it's really not worth it to try to save those quick connects on the tranny if they're dry and rusty. They can get rusted up inside with real scale rust, and ya can't really compress the plastic clips. It's a big 'fight' to try to get the plastic clips out (although you 'can' buy new clips). And if you did get them out of the plastic clips, with all the rust inside the 'bore' there's a good chance you'll be getting a leak soon down the road. There are some inexpensive new fittings on ebay if ya look. Best to just cut off the old tranny lines at the quick-fitting remove them with a socket or wrench, then screw on new fittings and new lines. That would be MUCH quicker than trying to goof with rusted old fittings. (of course if yers are covered in oil, clean off with carb cleaner and should be good to go)

I'm not sure which lines I put on mine. They were probably Dorman as they weren't very expensive. But the've held up fine for probably 5yrs now.

 

THANK YOU! This mfer driving me nuts. I even listed the Jeep for sale because I'm starting to get disappointed 🙄

 

after having a similar experience to yourself, I replaced the lines with the pictured part (size shown on box in photo), hydraulic hose, double clamps, got rid of the metal lines completely (M14 x 1.5 to 3/8" barb)

 

Best transmission mod: Parker 14 X 1.5 metric thread Hose Barb (MSC part 80258445), hose clamps, about 3" of 3/8" fuel line. A small 6mm wrench to tighten the clamps where a screw driver will not reach. NO need to cut the lines.

Chrysler's bad design regurgitated by Doorman

Parker's fitting

installed - no more leaks!

 

Creative. Your trans is painted black?

 

Yes - by the company that rebuilt it