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Transmission Cooler and Gauge

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Old Sep 17, 2021 | 11:58 AM
  #31  
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Default Lighter is better

Originally Posted by Spencer_P
I don't have a trailer yet, I'm just interested in getting one, plus it gave me an excuse to pull the trigger on these parts.
Just remember, that you're towing with only 220 ft/# of torque and the lighter the trailer is, the better on the trail or the road. Bean makes a fine little light off-road trailer, that you can Boondock with in peace. KOA's get old quickly - almost anybody's state park is better, but BLM land is best. Gas milage will go from bad to worse - so carry extra gas or install a larger gas tank. OME makes a great HD shock that you'll need once your existing ones fail. Australian steel springs will out-last most others. Note: manufactures' weights do not include the battery or the propane gas. Lock-n-roll coupler and hitch, jack-e-up jack removal and larger jack wheels all make Boondocking better. As for your AW4, change the fluid every 12k when towing. As always, fresh gear oil in your diffs, fresh fluid in your transfer case as well - all drivetrain components are stressed when towing.

Last edited by Very Red XJ; Sep 17, 2021 at 04:59 PM.
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Old Sep 17, 2021 | 03:47 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by 00t444e
It's your money to waste so do what you wan't with it, if those systems needed extra filtration they would have came that way from the factory.
It's your tranny to waste so do what you want with it, if those Jeeps didn't need extra this or that modification, there would not be a huge modification industry, but hey Chrysler is always right, right?
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Old Sep 17, 2021 | 07:13 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by robsjeep
It's your tranny to waste so do what you want with it, if those Jeeps didn't need extra this or that modification, there would not be a huge modification industry, but hey Chrysler is always right, right?
250K on mine and it still shifts like brand new, regular fluid changes and a bigger transmission cooler is all I have done to it. Same goes for all the other ones I work on, the only failures I have seen were from overheating or water contamination. Sometimes the solenoids go bad also but they are cheap and easy to replace.
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Old Sep 17, 2021 | 07:34 PM
  #34  
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Most new vehicles have transmission filters.

BUT, if the system does not have the pressure to handle it, maybe a filter isn't a good idea. The AW4 sure doesn't put out much pressure on those cooler line. I'm on the fence on this one. But those magnetic filters don't cause any real resistance to flow.

OTOH, when I replaced the transmission on an E350 I had, to keep the warranty valid, Ford required that TWO extra coolers be installed (one before and one after the stock radiator cooler), and a filter. They didn't say what size. I used a remote oil filter base and the same kind of filter as the engine used, to keep things simple. Worked great for years.
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Old Sep 18, 2021 | 10:13 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by 00t444e
250K on mine and it still shifts like brand new, regular fluid changes and a bigger transmission cooler is all I have done to it. Same goes for all the other ones I work on, the only failures I have seen were from overheating or water contamination. Sometimes the solenoids go bad also but they are cheap and easy to replace.
305K miles on my tranny.
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Old Sep 18, 2021 | 10:17 AM
  #36  
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Default

Originally Posted by BlueRidgeMark
Most new vehicles have transmission filters.

BUT, if the system does not have the pressure to handle it, maybe a filter isn't a good idea. The AW4 sure doesn't put out much pressure on those cooler line. I'm on the fence on this one. But those magnetic filters don't cause any real resistance to flow.

OTOH, when I replaced the transmission on an E350 I had, to keep the warranty valid, Ford required that TWO extra coolers be installed (one before and one after the stock radiator cooler), and a filter. They didn't say what size. I used a remote oil filter base and the same kind of filter as the engine used, to keep things simple. Worked great for years.
the magnafine filter offers low restriction, and a bypass valve. If the flow was significantly restricted, Id likely see high fluid temps as cooler flow will also be restricted, but that hasnt happened.

The magnafine on my power steering saved the gear box from damage when the pump blew. filter full of debries, but gear box was fine.

No restriction issues, no leak issues, all goodness.


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Old Sep 27, 2021 | 07:30 PM
  #37  
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This weekend I repainted the hitch, bought grade 8 hardware, filled one of the nut strips so it would fit into the frame rail, then got it lifted up and only one hole on each side is lining up. Also, the fuel filler neck cover on the driver's side and the exhauster hanger on the passenger's side are keeping the hitch from mounting flush with the frame rail. Not sure why, I won't be able to look at it more until this coming weekend.
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Old Nov 4, 2021 | 03:14 PM
  #38  
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Thumbs up Replace Leak prone Chrysler fittings

Best transmission mod: Parker 14 X 1.5 metric thread Hose Barb (MSC part 80258445), hose clamps, about 3" of 3/8" fuel line. A small 6mm wrench to tighten the clamps where a screw driver will not reach. NO need to cut the lines.

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Old Nov 4, 2021 | 05:50 PM
  #39  
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Thank you for posting the fittings. Do you happen to know if the same barbs would be used for going into the radiator?
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Old Nov 4, 2021 | 06:45 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Spencer_P
Thank you for posting the fittings. Do you happen to know if the same barbs would be used for going into the radiator?
Your radiator has barbs coming out of it and when tight they should work fine
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Old Mar 7, 2022 | 01:28 AM
  #41  
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I got the hitch and wiring installed awhile ago. Tonight I got everything removed so I can change the radiator, fan clutch, and add the transmission cooler. The Hayden 679 I ordered (11x11) doesn't seem like it will fit. How did you guys fit the 405?
Also, my new radiator has some corrosion on the upper trans fitting.




Originally Posted by robsjeep
at anyrate you must have some sort of flare or barb on the tube for securing the hose. do not attempt a hose install without a flare or barb.
How should I go about flaring the line? Brake flare kit?
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Old Mar 7, 2022 | 07:16 PM
  #42  
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Not having any luck finding the barbs I need locally. I got a 3/8 splice barb, but haven't found 3/8 to 5/16 barb or a 90-degree barb to replace the fitting that comes with the radiator, online or locally. Best I can tell the 90 is m14x1.5 as well but there isn't enough room for it to come straight out, it has to be a 90.
So now I'm stuck, shipping from anywhere is gonna mean not completing it this week, and ordering from MSC is expensive already then with shipping it's $33 for two fittings

I did find
these these
, but I'm not sure of the quality and they don't appear to come with a gasket/washer which I believe the Parker ones do.


Last edited by Spencer_P; Mar 7, 2022 at 09:10 PM.
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Old Mar 8, 2022 | 03:40 PM
  #43  
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I think I'm gonna order new lines and hopefully, get another 20 years out of them before the crimps leak. Then I will just splice into the rubber portion instead of running around looking for barbs and having to flare the lines.
I'm gonna try fitting the cooler again today, if I still can't get it I'll order a 678.
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Old Mar 8, 2022 | 07:05 PM
  #44  
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This "clips" right onto that factory quick-connect tube in post 42: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-751166erl It did require a bit of hammering on the inner fender to gain clearance...

And then one of these threads in place of that fitting in post 41: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220667b

Then I just used barbed AN fittings, such as this https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-260687b and https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-260690b with regular ol' transmission hose...

B&M 70268 fits well. I'm pretty sure a 70266 would fit.

Last edited by Jim Malcolm; Mar 8, 2022 at 07:08 PM.
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