Any Dexron is fine. I think III is the only one you can get anyway. Just don't use ATF+4.

Adjust that cable and report back.

 

Ok so the other day my 94 jeep cherokee made this loud pop then started clattering i have a five spped manual transmission. But it diesnt clatter when i press the clutch in.we rebuilt the transmission internally and it still does it. Now it wont go into fifth.could it be a shift cylonoid.

 

manuals dont have shift solenoids. sounds like a throw out bearing.

 

MY HEAD HURTS!

 

Ok i appreciate it lol im not mechanically inclined lol

 

Dextron III is is then! And the cable actually wasn't that out of whack. It only moved about an 8th of an inch. I didn't see much of a difference in driving. Maybe a little better throttle response, but that might just be in my head. It drives fine now, I just need to change the fluid once I start my new job. It should be changed within the next month, depending on when I get paid.

 

Got the switch in Power or Comfort?

 

Switch is always on power. Comfort just messes up the shift points.

 

Dexron III is difficult to find - usually, it's Dexron V or Dexron VI (often a combined spec with Mercon - like Dexron V/Mercon or Dexroon VI/Mercon.)

However, any Dexron spec will work - Dexron II/IIE/III/V/VI will all work in the AW4, based on my own experience with the box. The Dexron/Mercon combo spec doesn't pose a problem, but reports from the field indicate that using ATF +3/+4 usually causes clutch slip and chatter - even the "multi-spec" stuff that ChryCo TSBs say is "just fine" (it isn't.)

There are cases where the factory is wrong - FSMs say to use GL-5 in the AX-15, but GL-5 will dissolve the synchronisers, stick to GL-3 (GL-4 is good in the short term, but shouldn't be used for very long.)

 

Hm. My 1987 had the same shift pattern as my two 1989's - P-R-N-O-D-1/2.

P, obviously, is Park.
R, Reverse
N, Neutral
O, Overdrive (all four gear ranges available)
D, Overdrive Lockout (only 1/2/3 available)
1-2, only first and second gear available (and I don't like how it forces back down into First gear.)

Ideally, it should have been P-R-N-O-D-2-1, but you can get "manumatic" shifters for the AW4 - or you can build them yourself - so you can have "automatic overdrive" or full manual shifting, and TCC lockup available in all ranges (since the AW4 is shifted using electronic solenoids, it's perfectly doable.)

 

So just use any Dexron to be safe?

 

I agree.

 

I feel like power even shifts nicer then comfort imo

 

"Comfort" softens shifting (allowing clutches to slip a little more, which can cause premature wear...) and moves the shift points closer to each other to soften the effects of shifting.

"Power" has more immediate shift engagement, reducing clutch wear. And, the shift points are farther apart in the rpm band to take more advantage of the engine's torque output curve.

When the "Power/Comfort" switch was eliminated (ca. 1992 or so,) the TCU was hardwired into the "Power" mode - because it does drive better (and, if you want a Cadillac ride, go buy a Cadillac! Why are you buying a truck?)

And yes, essentially, you may use any Dexron fluid, Dexron II or newer. Dexron/Mercon multi-spec is fine, any "broad-spec" fluid can be problematic and should be avoided. Type F is something you can't really find anymore, and don't use +3/+4.

Also, I should point up that reports from the field are that the Aw4 can "get used to" a specific type of fluid - if you've got a box that's been using mineral-base oil, stick with it. If it's been used with synthetic, use that. Changing from one to the other is generally not recommended.

 

Is there any way to make power on full time? Like just take out the switch and just close the circuit?