Transfer case leak! New to forum
#1
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Transfer case leak! New to forum
ok guys, im kinda new to going on forums so Im sorry if I didn't post this properly.
Heres the deal. I just bought my Cherokee a couple weeks ago. Today I got under there to do a diff. fluid change and TC fluid change. I noticed that I have a leak but its not coming from the bottom of the TC its coming from where the front drive shaft ujoint meets the joint going into the transfer case. Im not sure what that's call ..Im assuming it a flange. Its coming out of the joint....???
What would you guys suggest to fix this? Is this going to be a whole deal where I have to drop the Transfer case or is it something simpler? Any ideas? its a model 231 J
Im the picture provided you can see the pooling of red fluid.
All help is greatly appreciated
Heres the deal. I just bought my Cherokee a couple weeks ago. Today I got under there to do a diff. fluid change and TC fluid change. I noticed that I have a leak but its not coming from the bottom of the TC its coming from where the front drive shaft ujoint meets the joint going into the transfer case. Im not sure what that's call ..Im assuming it a flange. Its coming out of the joint....???
What would you guys suggest to fix this? Is this going to be a whole deal where I have to drop the Transfer case or is it something simpler? Any ideas? its a model 231 J
Im the picture provided you can see the pooling of red fluid.
All help is greatly appreciated
#2
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
There a yoke seal must be leaking ,goes on inside of yoke ...http://www.extremeterrain.com/omix-a...j-1868032.html
Last edited by freegdr; 09-21-2013 at 05:00 AM.
#3
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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Front output seal and the yoke spline seal. The spline seal is the one in freegdr's photo that looks like a little gear.
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would I need to drop the entire case to change that seal or can it be done by just removing the drive shaft? thanks for the replies
#5
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Year: 1990
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Just the shaft. It COULD be just the washer also.
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Year: 1994
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Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
I changed mine the other week.
Pull the driveshaft, drain the fluid, pull the yoke (1-1/8 and might need a BFH or puller), remove the old steel seal band, insert new seal and use a little RTV around it incase you scratched the metal of the case.
I made that wooden block on my lathe to seat the seal in there properly, otherwise they're kinda hard to start. Pretty easy job to do.
There is a rubber washer that goes around the shaft that is supposed to keep the shaft from rubbing something back there. I spoke to the parts guy at the dealership and some dude at a transfer case shop I called and he told me he doesn't even bother to install the washer again because it doesn't do anything, again that was according to them. I stuck mine back in there and it was a little deteriorated. Good luck finding one for a good price though, they're all on back order or like $25.
Get the seal from Autozone, it's a Timken for like $6 or $7.
Pull the driveshaft, drain the fluid, pull the yoke (1-1/8 and might need a BFH or puller), remove the old steel seal band, insert new seal and use a little RTV around it incase you scratched the metal of the case.
I made that wooden block on my lathe to seat the seal in there properly, otherwise they're kinda hard to start. Pretty easy job to do.
There is a rubber washer that goes around the shaft that is supposed to keep the shaft from rubbing something back there. I spoke to the parts guy at the dealership and some dude at a transfer case shop I called and he told me he doesn't even bother to install the washer again because it doesn't do anything, again that was according to them. I stuck mine back in there and it was a little deteriorated. Good luck finding one for a good price though, they're all on back order or like $25.
Get the seal from Autozone, it's a Timken for like $6 or $7.
#7
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I changed mine the other week.
Pull the driveshaft, drain the fluid, pull the yoke (1-1/8 and might need a BFH or puller), remove the old steel seal band, insert new seal and use a little RTV around it incase you scratched the metal of the case.
Attachment 213351
Attachment 213352
Attachment 213353
I made that wooden block on my lathe to seat the seal in there properly, otherwise they're kinda hard to start. Pretty easy job to do.
There is a rubber washer that goes around the shaft that is supposed to keep the shaft from rubbing something back there. I spoke to the parts guy at the dealership and some dude at a transfer case shop I called and he told me he doesn't even bother to install the washer again because it doesn't do anything, again that was according to them. I stuck mine back in there and it was a little deteriorated. Good luck finding one for a good price though, they're all on back order or like $25.
Get the seal from Autozone, it's a Timken for like $6 or $7.
Pull the driveshaft, drain the fluid, pull the yoke (1-1/8 and might need a BFH or puller), remove the old steel seal band, insert new seal and use a little RTV around it incase you scratched the metal of the case.
Attachment 213351
Attachment 213352
Attachment 213353
I made that wooden block on my lathe to seat the seal in there properly, otherwise they're kinda hard to start. Pretty easy job to do.
There is a rubber washer that goes around the shaft that is supposed to keep the shaft from rubbing something back there. I spoke to the parts guy at the dealership and some dude at a transfer case shop I called and he told me he doesn't even bother to install the washer again because it doesn't do anything, again that was according to them. I stuck mine back in there and it was a little deteriorated. Good luck finding one for a good price though, they're all on back order or like $25.
Get the seal from Autozone, it's a Timken for like $6 or $7.
how did you get your yoke nut off? I got the drive shaft down and trying to break the nut loose but it keeps spinning?
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#9
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#10
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Year: My Jeep is a GMC
Righty tighty - lefty loosey, give her hell till it breaks loose or breaks off.
ETA:
Installation torque 90 - 130 ft-lbs.
ETA:
Installation torque 90 - 130 ft-lbs.
Last edited by Turbo X_J; 09-22-2013 at 07:27 PM.
#13
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Year: 1994 1993
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If it's a minor leak there is a product called AT-205 which is good at stopping seal leaks. Most stuff you by which claims to be "stop leak" works by being so thick it can't get past the seal but then it's not the right viscosity. AT-205 works by making the rubber in the seal soften and swell up and usually stops small leaks.
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I-6
I like to put a big monkey wrench (pipe wrench) on the yoke and set it where the handle will rest on the ground that way when you're cranking on the nut, the ground is holding the wrench and the yoke still, then I have a 3/4 drive ratchet that I use to take off the nut. This way, my XJ hardly moves at all while I'm cranking on the nut. If the nut is really stuck, I place a jack under the ratchet handle and jack it up using the vehicle weight to jack against.
#15
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losing my mind.
im about to lose my mind with this thing....I have got the nut off and pulled the old seal. Now for the last 2 hours ive been fighting to get this new seal back in. You know how it goes...once you think you got it seated properly it just pops out. This would be so much easier if I had the transfer case on a table but being under the car doesn't give a lot of work room. Any ideas or tips to get it in....Id pay 100 dollars for that wood block at this point.