ive got a leak coming from my transfer case that is coming from where the front driveshaft connects to the tcase. im alsmost 100 persent sure its the Output Shaft Seal but was wondering if there are any good writeups on doing this
The front input seal is an easy one to replace, it'll involve removing the tgransfercase and unbolting the front collar that holds the seal. Then replace the seal in it and reinstall everything.
Assuming were talking about an NP231/242 transfer here... you gave no details.
Assuming were talking about an NP231/242 transfer here... you gave no details.
yeah its the np231
but i was talking about the ouput seal that goes right to the front driveshaft i was thinking all i had to do was drop that driveshaft but i dont really know how to get the seal out after that
but i was talking about the ouput seal that goes right to the front driveshaft i was thinking all i had to do was drop that driveshaft but i dont really know how to get the seal out after that
oops, my apologies.
I havent done this seal yet but i'll bet it just like a pinion seal, remove the yoke, pry out old seal and install new with a seal driver or correct sized socket.
I havent done this seal yet but i'll bet it just like a pinion seal, remove the yoke, pry out old seal and install new with a seal driver or correct sized socket.
alright man thanks a lot ill probobly do this sometime soon and take some pictures while im doing it so if anybody has this problem they will know how to fix it 
CF Veteran
Note - that pinion yoke nut is torqued to somewhere around 200 pound-feet! Do not remove the transfer case to service it.
- Block the wheels.
- Shift into 4LO
- Remove the front driveshaft
- Fit a breaker bar and socket to the front output pinion yoke nut. Figure out cheater bars now, you're likely to need them.
- Bend, bash, press, stand, swear, fume, and curse until you get the wretched thing loose
- Remove yoke
- Clean splined shaft with wire wheel (with old seal in place)
- Remove seal
- Install new seal (wrap splines with masking tape, lubricate seal lip with a good light grease, and apply a light coat of RTV to the outside diameter of the seal shell)
- Remove masking tape
- Paint splines using never-seez (don't get any on the threads)
- Make sure the mating splines on the yoke are clean, clean them if required
- Install yoke
- Install and torque nut (as I said, it's somewhere around 200 pound-feet. You can probably find the torque value on my site, culled from an FSM.)
- Refill and return to service. Recheck for leaks in 3-5 days.
- Block the wheels.
- Shift into 4LO
- Remove the front driveshaft
- Fit a breaker bar and socket to the front output pinion yoke nut. Figure out cheater bars now, you're likely to need them.
- Bend, bash, press, stand, swear, fume, and curse until you get the wretched thing loose
- Remove yoke
- Clean splined shaft with wire wheel (with old seal in place)
- Remove seal
- Install new seal (wrap splines with masking tape, lubricate seal lip with a good light grease, and apply a light coat of RTV to the outside diameter of the seal shell)
- Remove masking tape
- Paint splines using never-seez (don't get any on the threads)
- Make sure the mating splines on the yoke are clean, clean them if required
- Install yoke
- Install and torque nut (as I said, it's somewhere around 200 pound-feet. You can probably find the torque value on my site, culled from an FSM.)
- Refill and return to service. Recheck for leaks in 3-5 days.