98 xj, 4.0, AW4, NP231.

I was doing some fluid changes today. Drained the transfer case, and then discovered that the fill plug has been stripped. My hex key won't grip enough to remove it. I should have checked the fill plug before draining it. Hindsight....

I have soaked it with Blaster, and gave it a little bit of hammer love. I have tried to get it to turn with a chisel, with no success. The plug is flush with the tc.

Any suggestions on how to remove it? I've thought of welding a bolt to it, but I'm not much of a welder. I've also considered drilling it, and using an easy out.

Will it damage the tc to drive it without oil, if I don't engage 4 wheel drive?

 

Until you can address the fill plug you will need to add some ATF to the TC.


Remove the Vehicle Speed Sensor (mark the TC and the VSS before removal for reinstallation reference). Add 2.5 pints of ATF then reinstall the VSS.


Drive it to a welding shop and have a bolt welded in the plug.


New plugs are still available from the dealer.


Mopar part number 68001627AA. Replace both plugs.

 

I 2WD, your engine's power is transferred to the rear axles by the transfer case. In 4WD, it's transferred to the front and rear.

Either way, it's turning, it's transferring power, and needs lubrication.

 

Yes, you can fill the TC with fluid through one of the sensor ports (Vehicle speed sensor is a good one). Another reason to always remove the fill bolt FIRST - never know what is going to break or strip till it's too late.

The fill plug is really tight from the factory but a really good weld on a bolt should allow you to put enough force into loosening the plug.

 

As Ken said they are still available. Ordered two from the dealership a couple weeks ago for when i change my Tcase output seal out.

If you have a hammer screw/bolt driver with a wide enough bit, that might work. Might have to improvise on the bit depending on how much you hacked the plug up with a chisel.

I always used a hammer driver for removing stubborn screws from my motorcycle's aluminum side cases. It never failed and as a bonus it keeps those phillips head screw slots pristine.

 

All you need to do is heat it up with a torch. It will come right off. Just a small propane torch will do it.

Be careful it is aluminum and will heat very quickly.

MH

 

Thanks for the replies. I managed to remove it, and it is mangled. I will remember to check the fill plug before draining next time.

CCKen- Thank you for the part number. I will visit my Mopar dealer Monday, and take your advice to replace both.

 

You might want to use these instead. Surprised CCKen did not mention these. This was from a post of his on another forum. I save stuff like this. Never know when it will come in handy.

 

I bought a set of these plugs not long ago and found out these new plugs they sell are not the same as the ones shown in that pic. NAPA switched venders and they are NFG. Took them back and now use the MOPAR plugs I listed above.

 

Good to know. Thanks for the update.

 

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That's unfortunate. I was actually going to NAPA today to see west they have. I'm glad I found out there junk. It sure looks like a better design. Do they not seal well?

 

The holes in the TC are 22 mm taper threads. The OEM plugs are taper threads.


The original NAPA plugs were straight threads (22 mm) but were sized as such that the last several threads on the plug would engage the taper thread holes adequately to seal up nicely with that fiber gasket.


The new plugs that NAPA sells are straight threads as well but not sized properly and won't even start in to the holes but a few threads.

 

O'Reilly has one like that. I bought one to try, and it will only start a couple of threads. Mopar it will be, even though I don't like the design of their plug.