Trans or Torque Converter Slip?
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
From: Missouri
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
Naa dont let it ride,I would give it a few good drain and refills, 2 maybe 3..with Dexron III/Mercon.. and see if it helps.. The AW4 is a tough little cookie. drain out old fluid,, fill with new, drive for 10 mins, drain and do it again until it looks good. no need to power flush.
::CF Administrator::
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 14,479
Likes: 805
From: Blunt, South Dakota
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.6 stroker
Naa dont let it ride,I would give it a few good drain and refills, 2 maybe 3..with Dexron III/Mercon.. and see if it helps.. The AW4 is a tough little cookie.
Drain out old fluid,, fill with new, drive for 10 mins, drain and do it again until it looks good.
No need to power flush.
Drain out old fluid,, fill with new, drive for 10 mins, drain and do it again until it looks good.
No need to power flush.
Moderator CF K9-unit
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 5,842
Likes: 12
From: Alaska
Year: 2000 sport
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: New 4.0l from s&j engines
Moderator CF K9-unit
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 5,842
Likes: 12
From: Alaska
Year: 2000 sport
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: New 4.0l from s&j engines
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 7,965
Likes: 964
From: Lost in the wilds of Virginia
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Agreed! Do NOT let it ride!
And not only is there no need to power flush, you should avoid a power flush like the plague!
Do a flush like I described above, and like the other guy, you'll be shocked at the difference it will make.
And not only is there no need to power flush, you should avoid a power flush like the plague!
Do a flush like I described above, and like the other guy, you'll be shocked at the difference it will make.
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 4,481
Likes: 18
From: Arizona
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
An observation about this.
Feels like a shift kit hey..lol your trans throttle valve cable might be a little tight and need adjusting. If its to loose it will take forever to shift. If to tight it feels really sharp like a shift kit. Check out the this vid on how to adjust it and see if that helps..
I have noticed that just moving it one notch at the adjuster almost makes too much of an adjustment one way or the other. it is pretty critical and was curious if bending the linkage bracket to move the arc of the pull a little closer to the axis of the pivot center would help with this? Would it still pull far enough overall to reach max control in the trans?
This "criticalness" in adjustment has been a pain in the rear for me because I have noticed a very pronounced difference even just because it happened to be cold that day and the cable contracted even the smallest bit in length from the setting I had to make the warmer day before.
What do you think? I am tired of setting it every few days one notch because the weather keeps changing back and forth as we go into fall.
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