I did this on my waggie. I will never do another filter change on the tranny again lol.

I am sure someone has already answered your first question but i will add to it.

The o-ring is what you will fight when you take it apart and put it together. PIA to get the tube in and out. Even harder to get it back together. I reccomend GREASE lol.

Also when you are putting the bolts back into the pan be very careful the torque specs on those are extremly low. Good-in-tight specs will break the bolt heads "ask me how i know lol".

After you finish this you will never want to do it again lol.

 

I had NO problem with the ATL AZ and Kenesaw AZ.
At least rednecks know trucks!!! Now the "Cans" at my local AZ only somewhat know rice burners.
I love messing with the "cans" who have a rice burner with all the spoilers.
"Oh look, (They smile and think I like it) then I say Oooh look a funny car! Funniest POS I have ever seen!"

Around here we say they just got fired from Burger King.....

 

Done lots of these at work and the trick to getting the tube apart is heat! Using a propane torch heat the tube until it is nearly glowing and the o-ring will melt. Pull! It should come apart easily but the o-ring residue will need to be cleaned off w/a wire brush and a new o-ring installed. Lube liberally w/grease to re-assemble. The aftermarket will give you a gasket to re-seal the pan but these were sealed w/silicone from the factory and silicone will work well going back together.

 

I don't even have it back together yet and I already know I'll never do it again LOL! I didn't even know it had an o-ring until I got it apart. So hopefully after the pan is reattached, I can peck the tube in with grease, wood block and hammer.

Thanks for the tip on the torque specs. Did you actually use a torque wrench or just guestimate? My Haynes manual says 10 ft lbs.

Hehe, I didn't mean to start an AZ bashing session To be fair, I looked up the part number on their website (TF209) and that is what they gave me. Also, the picture of that part shows the correct rectangle gasket, so I think this is likely a problem with the manufacturer packing the wrong gasket.

 

Thanks for the heat tip. Too bad I'll never be doing this again LOL!! Seriously, someone else will benefit from that tip. So is the rubber gasket not advisable? It seems easier and cleaner than the silicone, but I'll go with silicone if it's better. Just don't want it to leak...

 

Let us know when you get it buttoned up again. BTW O-rings are available that will fit the tube. I think I would use both an o-ring and a dab of silicone.

 

Sorry, I wasn't clear in my last post...I changed subjects right in the middle My o-ring is still attached to the tube, so I'm good there. By rubber gasket, I was referring to the pan gasket. Once I get the correct pan gasket, should I use it, or RTV silicone, or both?

 

Initially I guesstimated and broke the head off one of the bolts. Then brought out the manual and found out how small the torque specs were and had to basically loosen the rest of them back up. It really helps in you remove the Crossmember also not sure if you did. this is a great time to replace your tranny mount if you havnt already.


I used a block of wood and and hammer also but it was still a PIA. I am still not sure if mine is all the way seated but it aint leaking so I am happy. Also refilling the tranny take is SLOW you tranny may only acccept about a quart initially then you will have to start the vehilce for it to take more then run through all the gears and what not to completly fill it.

 

Well, it's all back together and working fine, no leaks. This is hilarious...that PIA tube went back together with just a little push of the hand! Only unexpected issue is that the bolt that holds the upper tube in place stripped out its hole when I put it back in and I wasn't overtightening it. It barely gets tight at all now, but it's holding it in place and doesn't look like it's hurting anything. Snapped a pic with the pan and filter off just for the heck of it.

 

OMG.. Kragen is worse.. off topic but i got in an argument once with the manager who wanted to sell me the serp belt that was 4 inches too small, he even went out and prooved me right lol... give someone minimum wage and they are auto pros?

ive always had great advice from napa

 

Oh yeah, and it was Advance Auto that saved the day. To the credit of the AZ clerk, he instantly recognized it as their problem and he personally called Advance to make sure that they had what I needed in stock so that I could finish it up today.

 

wats the torque specs for tranny paN BOLTS??

 

i worked at AZ here in town for a little while and quickly realized how dumb these folks really are. their system is horrible too. you know how many people had to return 3 and 4 times a day just to get the right part. its unbelievable. needless to say i ran from that job. i couldnt take it anymore. AAP is the bees knees around here. just thought i would add to the mix.

 

How about this reasoning?
1. Drain tranny fluid through drain plug.
2. Observe magnetic plug for metal shavings.
3. Observe drained fluid for metal shavings, metal chips etc.
4. If the fluid looks good and no shavings are present just put the plug back in and refill with fluid.

5. If there are an unusual amount of metal flakes or chips.... only then drop the pan and replace the filter/gasket.

Did the original PO find any chips in your filter?
I went through the same thing you did and didn't find anything in my filter (at 245,000). Never again will I drop the pan unless I see chips in the fluid or on the plug.

 

YEA THATS GOOD REASONING. unless you have to change your kickdown cable due to the top black clip snapping..

so wat is the tranny pan bolt torque specs?? anybody know?