Hello all,

In June, my Jeep had a catastrophic failure on the way to work one morning... To make things short (yea right, see cliffs),

the water pump locked up causing the belt to snap, rupturing a tranny line that is right below the pulley system... Also, I noticed that the line that ruptured looks like it bent up into the pulley, possibly causing the belt to fail as well... which may have caused the pump to fail and overheat the motor...

because prior to this happening I've noticed when I'm cruising it takes the car a bit to revv up and return cruising speed. Maybe the line was slowly being eaten alive by the belt?

No one will ever know...

but alas... I got a new thermostat, water pump and belt installed... runs just fine, but don't want to idle it too long until i put new coolant in it.


as for the tranny line... How on earth do I replace this guy???



you can see the fitting right in the middle, that's what ruptured... I think i got the right part... this one:

thanks!!

 

.anyone?!?!!?? helllppp

 

You need to buy a set of fuel line hose removing tools, I'm not sure exactly what they are called. You can get them at Harbor Freight or any auto parts store.

 

fun... also, I replaced the tstat and waterpump, yet my motor still overheats... any other idea of what may be causing it?!?

 

Can't really remove that side with a line disco tool since it is crimped on. The upper ends yes but not lowers.
Cut it off with a Dremel or hack saw.
About 5 length wise cuts around it and pry/peel it off. Be carefull not to cut the hard line underneath the soft where you're cutting (I used an Xacto knife to cut the remaining rubber) .
If you do cut it, don't worry.
Just use a small pipe cutter, cut behind the crimp fitting, deburr, and slide fuel line or trans line up a few inches and secure with 2 hose clamps. It won't leak a bit.

Really I'd use the disco tool on the upper 2 ends of the trans lines at the rad and cooler, cut off the bottom ones as described above and just use hose clamps all around. As long as you go over the flare enough and use more than one clamp at each end you'll be fine.
It'll be a tight fit on the upper side and a bit of wrestling to get the lines over the flare enough but it can be done.

That's what I did after replacing the whole line for 38 bucks twice.

Those "quick connect" lines are garbage and crap.
I haven't had a drop leak anywhere since the "upgrade".

If you search transmission line leak fix you'll see that TONS of us have gone to this less troublesome, easily replacable anywhere with hose and clamps, permanent fix.

Return those crappy fittings, get some 3/8" fuel line and some "fuel line clamps" (they don't cut in to the hose as much)
and save that money for tranny fluid lol.
Do it and don't look back.

 

thanks Solomon... do I cut the rubber line? because it's frayed apart right at the actual crimped fitting... I bought a new line, think I can just graft it onto the old one and save some time? It's currently parked in my soggy Irene-ridden backyard so I can't quite get under after it sunk in a bit... thanks!

 

I had a leaking tranny line quick connect and I replaced the rubber o ring inside it and presto no leeko. I think the parts store gave me the o rings too. Changing lines can be a pain but if there all bent up then you should do it anyway.

And take that autozone crap back and get it from a real parts store.

 

Fan clutch is another cause of overheating at slow to no speed.
Get a HD one from a ZJ. Only from NAPA and ONLY part #272310 (got it memorized this comes up so much lol). Don't get the MaxKool one if they offer (it won't fit) just the 272310.

A failing radiator cap can cause overheats too. Make sure you have a 16 pound cap.
Aside from what you've already replaced, a clogged radiator will do it too.
Have the radiator pressure tested at a shop and get a new cap.

BTW your electric fan should kick on around 217-220. If it doesn't, jump it to the bat.
If it works it's the temp sending unit in the thermostat housing or a relay in the PDC..

 

Cut the whole fitting off, rubber and all down to the double flared hard line underneath.
Get new hose, remove the upper connection with a disconnect tool, slide new hose over an inch and double clamp at both ends.
Never heard of someone "grafting" a pressurized line. It could restrict flow and stress the trans pump.

Don't ghetto your trans lines. Do it with the overpriced, problematic, and inevitably leaking again factory lines or with a cheap easy to replace permanent way.

If you don't want to cut the crimp fitting off. just hacksaw or tube cut the hard line behind it, deburr the end. Flare the end with a flaring tool if you have one but it isn't necessary really.

Just slide 2 or 3 inches of hose over it and secure with 2 hose clamps. I used 4 on that end when I had to cut the hard line. Only need 2 though but I like to be safe.
I actually have 4 hose clamps secured around my sway bar underneath JIC I need one underneath!

 

so basically cut out the problem section... then splice it together?


and as for the overheating, I'll try to jump the fan since it doesn't kick on at all... I just need to find some time to do this... sick day may be in my future *cough*

 

When I had the same problem, I used this great stuff called rescue tape. I have had it on there for 9 months without any leaking. I am sure you can Google it. It forms a chemical bond with itself, basically adding new hose on the outside of the old hose and fitting.

 

yea, I might give the rescue tape a shot as a temp fix, so that i can drive my jeep into the shop and then work on it on concrete and not muddy/grass stuff

 

Mine was going to be a temp fix as well....until I tried to take the stuff off. Very impressive.

 

well... as soon as the ground dries up i'm gonna get under there and see how bad its damaged before I tape it.

as for the overheating, it basically was caused from the waterpump seizing... think that the sending unit may have failed because of it? that's the last thing I didn't check as to why it overheats at idling for about 10 mins.

 

Do you still have the orginal 1990 cooling system? If so, try burping the system.
Scooter