trailer hitch wiring options
01-10-2014, 04:43 PM
#1
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Model: Cherokee
trailer hitch wiring options
When I bought my 1998 Cherokee sport 3 years ago it already had a uhaul hitch installed. I recently bought a trailer and I installed an etrailer harness. Long story short the etrailer harness tried to burn my jeep to the ground and my rear wiring now looks like this...
I'd prefer not use wire taps off these wires to run a harness. What are my other options for running a trailer harness? Is there an OEM harness? My fuse block does have a fuse labeled "towing package". Thanks,
I'd prefer not use wire taps off these wires to run a harness. What are my other options for running a trailer harness? Is there an OEM harness? My fuse block does have a fuse labeled "towing package". Thanks,
01-10-2014, 04:49 PM
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
How did it do that?
Nothing wrong with a 4 prong kit from the store... Problem comes from if your trailer lights put too much of a load on the stock circuit.
Nothing wrong with a 4 prong kit from the store... Problem comes from if your trailer lights put too much of a load on the stock circuit.
01-10-2014, 07:57 PM
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
The ETrailer plug-n-play harness (behind the spare tire) has worked great for us for 4 years now on our '98. That birds nest looks like.........an accident waiting to happen.
I see at least 2 bare wires....r there more?
I see at least 2 bare wires....r there more?
Last edited by djb383; 01-10-2014 at 08:01 PM.
01-10-2014, 08:21 PM
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
If you weren't towing a trailer you must have had a short out on a 12v constant wire and burned that harness up...
It's the wire run of the trailer lights and the bulbs that contribute to loading a circuit. The 18 gauge stuff can barely do our tail lights, much less 20 more feet and a big brake bulb or turn signal. LED's do help with the light issue, but not the wire run.
X2. I'm on my phone and see bare wires... Heat shrink...
It's the wire run of the trailer lights and the bulbs that contribute to loading a circuit. The 18 gauge stuff can barely do our tail lights, much less 20 more feet and a big brake bulb or turn signal. LED's do help with the light issue, but not the wire run.
X2. I'm on my phone and see bare wires... Heat shrink...
01-11-2014, 09:49 AM
#6
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I only have 1 question. What are my CURRENT trailer wiring harness options. Even if I wanted to use an etrailer harness I could not because all my plastic wiring connectors melted. Thanks, I look forward to anyone that can help me.
01-11-2014, 01:26 PM
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I don't know what went wrong, but it wasn't the fault of the eTrailer harness. They sell good stuff.
It was either wired incorrectly, or there were other problems that were exposed by the installation. Since the previous unit was Uhaul, the most likely scenario is that IT was installed incorrectly and left you set up for problems. I've seen a few UHaul installations, and I wouldn't trust those clowns to install a light bulb.
You might find a few UHaul shops here and there that do decent work, but then, you might find a few Midas Mufflers that do decent work. I've even heard of a ffew Aamco shops that do good work. Strange things do happen.
Whatever the reason for the problem, Step one is to fix whatever needs fixing. Get your system cleaned up and working correctly.
NEXT, buy a good trailer harness/adapter. You have a 4 bulb system on the Jeep, and you need to go to a 2 bulb system on the trailer. (Unless you have a 4 bulb system on the trailer, but that's pretty rare.)
Some Cherokees (I have no clue what year & models) have a built-in connector location for this application. If you have that, you can use one of these:
http://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-V...id=19981173485
It's built to T into the existing harness. That's very clean and neat, HOWEVER, there's one thing I don't like about it: It steals power from the existing wiring. Not good, in my book.
MUCH better, is a unit that connects to your wiring, but draws power from its OWN dedicated 12v line, run to the battery. (OR better yet, to an unused terminal on the PDC.)
Like this:
http://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-V...id=19981173491
This is what I'd recommend. You just tap it into your existing cleaned up and working harness, and it will do an excellent job for you. Since it's drawing almost zero power from your existing wiring (a few milliamps at most), using splices is perfectly fine. But DON'T use those junk splices that are provided. Use a decent splice and you'll have good results. Here's an example:
http://www.wiringproducts.com/18-10-...rs-50-pcs.html
See that it has a double blade to make the connection? This kind goes on better, with FAR fewer problems, than the single blade kind. I won't use the single blade types on anything. When they come in a product I buy, I toss them in the trash.
Use a pair of water pump pliers (sometimes called Channellocks) to crimp the blade down. You can adjust the jaws so they are parallel, and this is critical to getting a good connection.
Put some dielectric grease in there before you assemble it, and you'll have a connection that will serve you well for many, many years.
It was either wired incorrectly, or there were other problems that were exposed by the installation. Since the previous unit was Uhaul, the most likely scenario is that IT was installed incorrectly and left you set up for problems. I've seen a few UHaul installations, and I wouldn't trust those clowns to install a light bulb.
You might find a few UHaul shops here and there that do decent work, but then, you might find a few Midas Mufflers that do decent work. I've even heard of a ffew Aamco shops that do good work. Strange things do happen.
Whatever the reason for the problem, Step one is to fix whatever needs fixing. Get your system cleaned up and working correctly.
NEXT, buy a good trailer harness/adapter. You have a 4 bulb system on the Jeep, and you need to go to a 2 bulb system on the trailer. (Unless you have a 4 bulb system on the trailer, but that's pretty rare.)
Some Cherokees (I have no clue what year & models) have a built-in connector location for this application. If you have that, you can use one of these:
http://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-V...id=19981173485
It's built to T into the existing harness. That's very clean and neat, HOWEVER, there's one thing I don't like about it: It steals power from the existing wiring. Not good, in my book.
MUCH better, is a unit that connects to your wiring, but draws power from its OWN dedicated 12v line, run to the battery. (OR better yet, to an unused terminal on the PDC.)
Like this:
http://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-V...id=19981173491
This is what I'd recommend. You just tap it into your existing cleaned up and working harness, and it will do an excellent job for you. Since it's drawing almost zero power from your existing wiring (a few milliamps at most), using splices is perfectly fine. But DON'T use those junk splices that are provided. Use a decent splice and you'll have good results. Here's an example:
http://www.wiringproducts.com/18-10-...rs-50-pcs.html
See that it has a double blade to make the connection? This kind goes on better, with FAR fewer problems, than the single blade kind. I won't use the single blade types on anything. When they come in a product I buy, I toss them in the trash.
Use a pair of water pump pliers (sometimes called Channellocks) to crimp the blade down. You can adjust the jaws so they are parallel, and this is critical to getting a good connection.
Put some dielectric grease in there before you assemble it, and you'll have a connection that will serve you well for many, many years.
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01-11-2014, 05:57 PM
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I don't know what went wrong, but it wasn't the fault of the eTrailer harness. They sell good stuff.
It was either wired incorrectly, or there were other problems that were exposed by the installation. Since the previous unit was Uhaul, the most likely scenario is that IT was installed incorrectly and left you set up for problems. I've seen a few UHaul installations, and I wouldn't trust those clowns to install a light bulb.
You might find a few UHaul shops here and there that do decent work, but then, you might find a few Midas Mufflers that do decent work. I've even heard of a ffew Aamco shops that do good work. Strange things do happen.
Whatever the reason for the problem, Step one is to fix whatever needs fixing. Get your system cleaned up and working correctly.
NEXT, buy a good trailer harness/adapter. You have a 4 bulb system on the Jeep, and you need to go to a 2 bulb system on the trailer. (Unless you have a 4 bulb system on the trailer, but that's pretty rare.)
Some Cherokees (I have no clue what year & models) have a built-in connector location for this application. If you have that, you can use one of these:
http://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-V...id=19981173485
It's built to T into the existing harness. That's very clean and neat, HOWEVER, there's one thing I don't like about it: It steals power from the existing wiring. Not good, in my book.
MUCH better, is a unit that connects to your wiring, but draws power from its OWN dedicated 12v line, run to the battery. (OR better yet, to an unused terminal on the PDC.)
Like this:
http://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-V...id=19981173491
This is what I'd recommend. You just tap it into your existing cleaned up and working harness, and it will do an excellent job for you. Since it's drawing almost zero power from your existing wiring (a few milliamps at most), using splices is perfectly fine. But DON'T use those junk splices that are provided. Use a decent splice and you'll have good results. Here's an example:
http://www.wiringproducts.com/18-10-...rs-50-pcs.html
See that it has a double blade to make the connection? This kind goes on better, with FAR fewer problems, than the single blade kind. I won't use the single blade types on anything. When they come in a product I buy, I toss them in the trash.
Use a pair of water pump pliers (sometimes called Channellocks) to crimp the blade down. You can adjust the jaws so they are parallel, and this is critical to getting a good connection.
Put some dielectric grease in there before you assemble it, and you'll have a connection that will serve you well for many, many years.
It was either wired incorrectly, or there were other problems that were exposed by the installation. Since the previous unit was Uhaul, the most likely scenario is that IT was installed incorrectly and left you set up for problems. I've seen a few UHaul installations, and I wouldn't trust those clowns to install a light bulb.
You might find a few UHaul shops here and there that do decent work, but then, you might find a few Midas Mufflers that do decent work. I've even heard of a ffew Aamco shops that do good work. Strange things do happen.
Whatever the reason for the problem, Step one is to fix whatever needs fixing. Get your system cleaned up and working correctly.
NEXT, buy a good trailer harness/adapter. You have a 4 bulb system on the Jeep, and you need to go to a 2 bulb system on the trailer. (Unless you have a 4 bulb system on the trailer, but that's pretty rare.)
Some Cherokees (I have no clue what year & models) have a built-in connector location for this application. If you have that, you can use one of these:
http://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-V...id=19981173485
It's built to T into the existing harness. That's very clean and neat, HOWEVER, there's one thing I don't like about it: It steals power from the existing wiring. Not good, in my book.
MUCH better, is a unit that connects to your wiring, but draws power from its OWN dedicated 12v line, run to the battery. (OR better yet, to an unused terminal on the PDC.)
Like this:
http://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-V...id=19981173491
This is what I'd recommend. You just tap it into your existing cleaned up and working harness, and it will do an excellent job for you. Since it's drawing almost zero power from your existing wiring (a few milliamps at most), using splices is perfectly fine. But DON'T use those junk splices that are provided. Use a decent splice and you'll have good results. Here's an example:
http://www.wiringproducts.com/18-10-...rs-50-pcs.html
See that it has a double blade to make the connection? This kind goes on better, with FAR fewer problems, than the single blade kind. I won't use the single blade types on anything. When they come in a product I buy, I toss them in the trash.
Use a pair of water pump pliers (sometimes called Channellocks) to crimp the blade down. You can adjust the jaws so they are parallel, and this is critical to getting a good connection.
Put some dielectric grease in there before you assemble it, and you'll have a connection that will serve you well for many, many years.
Thanks for the options. I like the 2nd one. I'm also considering going to the JY and cutting out the connectors I need and using the 1st option.
01-11-2014, 07:51 PM
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Fuses are your friends (or should be).
ETA:
This link even has a video of the install, doesn't look like what I see here tho...
http://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-V...id=19981173485
ETA:
This link even has a video of the install, doesn't look like what I see here tho...
http://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-V...id=19981173485
Last edited by Turbo X_J; 01-11-2014 at 08:08 PM. Reason: Linky
01-11-2014, 08:52 PM
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Since you have LEDs, that's not so bad, but consider this:
The 2nd option does an excellent job of isolating your trailer wiring from your vehicle wiring. It can protect your vehicle from electrical problems cause by shorts in your trailer wiring. And vice versa!
I'm not sure the first option will provide the same protection.
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