Ok, for for xmas I got a reese class III hitch, I checkd out everything yesterday to see how it would line up and I noticed that on the passenger side in the frame theres like a strip of metal with welded nuts attatched to it, in the instructions it says I can use those weld nuts and then on the other side I have to put those metal spacer things in, but the hardware that came with the hitch doesnt fit in the weld nuts, so my question is can I knock the weld nuts out and use the other metal squares for that side just like I would use on the drivers side? Any advice to make installation easyer?

 

Pics?

 

Was your hitch made specifically for your year Cherokee? And was it made for a Cherokee? It might be a generic hitch. In the past I have bought my hitches from JC Whitney, and they are guaranteed to fit without modifications. Everything needed would have been included along with instructions for the Cherokee install.

 

did it not come with two sets? because i remember mine came with a few that didnt work for some reason. Mine was a uhaul tho. If all else fails you could grab the jcr nut strips which are thicker i believe and replace both driver and passenger side.

 

Our UHaul hitch ('98 specific) bolted right up. As mentioned, if the hitch is universal, may have to get creative.

 

Yes, you can remove the nut strip and use the metal squares on both sides. My nut strip was very corroded and also would not accept the bolts.

As far as installation tips, it's not that difficult really. It just involves a lot of fishing hardware. Having an extra hand around makes the job a lot easier as well. The trickiest part for me was removing the nut strip actually, which involved some cutting and bending of the strip to get it out of the frame rail and passed the bumper.

Not sure what you wanna see, but I have a couple pics showing how the hitch bolts up in my build thread on page 14.

 

No its not universal, its made for my year/model, it only come with one kind of screws but it doubled up on everything. The instructions are wickd confusing and gives me like 6 different ways to do it. Theres a nut strip on the passanger side but its kinda rusty I was gonna take that out and use the block things that came with the kit

 

The passenger side has a "nutstrip" installed. It is used on your model to hold up the tail pipe hanger. If you had a metal skidplate or a factory hitch, the other nuts would be used. There would also be another matching strip on the other side. The strips are riveted in place so trying to knock out the nuts will only likely bend the strip and leave it in the way when you try to fish hardware in. The hitch kit should have had some bolts that specifically fit that strip, if not you can find them at any auto store. A suggestion would be to clean up the threads and definitely lube the new bolts upon insertion. You can also buy a new drivers side strip for around $13 and it is well worth it. I bought both strips new and installation was a breeze for my new hitch. No fishing little washers and bolts with little wires. I did have to remove the rear bumper, but that was easy.

* (edit) Sorry Sanchezcruz, I missed your post entirely- (that is what I get for speed reading) There is a little aluminum rivet that you can drill out and will greatly assist in removing the nutstrip. Removing the rear bumper will help immensely whether you use the kit hardware or choose to add new nutstrips. It allows you to simply reach (and see) right into the unibody when positioning the hardware. I also would suggest a long pair of needlenose pliers if you have them.

 

Officially the nutstrips are called fuel tank sill reinforcements
they are under #44 on the diagram and appear to have gone up a couple of dollars, but are still worth the price. You would also need to get a couple aluminum rivets to hold them in place- those larger rivets can also be found at the auto parts store (found mine at NAPA) cheaply.

 

Should contain (at least mine did) SAE carriage bolts for the reinforcing tabs, & metric hex head bolts for the nut strip. You can try to use the nutstrip but like you posted the rust is an issue. I think I encountered 2 bolts with the nutstrip I gave up on and blasted in there with my impact, at least it's not going to fall off.

 

This video should be helpful.


The nut strip on my '00 was pretty badly corroded also but i was able to clean up the threads using a tap. For the drivers side i just used the supplied carriage bolts. Do yourself a favor and liberally antiseize everything.

 

I registered to give you the following advice:

• Get rid of the old rusty nutstrip. It's worthless. You'll probably have to drill out the rivet that holds it in.

• Don't use those square washers. They're almost impossible to get into the frame in the right position. They also don't provide the reinforcement and load spreading that a nutstrip does.
• Buy new left and right nutstrips and use those. You'll need the right metric bolts too. 12mm x 1.25 according to this thread https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/rea...olt-size-8921/
  
  Stainless steel is a good idea IMO, so they don't get stuck when the new strips rust in 10 years.
• Morris 4x4 sells the OEM nutstrips for $16 each http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-ch...ccessories.htm
  
  JCR also makes them. http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/...ry_Code=XJMISC

Edit: Why does this forum remove formatting? Argh...

 

You don't need the rivets. You put them in, screw in the front bolts (unused by aftermarket hitches), and then install the hitch using the remaining nuts.

 

Didn't even think about the hitch being shorter. Nicely done. The hitch on mine came from a cash/clunker XJ and I used all the holes on the nutstrips.

You are a wise man grasshopper.