tractor supply trailor spring/ rear shock bar pin eliminator ?????
04-26-2010, 03:03 PM
#1
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
tractor supply trailor spring/ rear shock bar pin eliminator ?????
ok so i was walkin through tractor supply yesterday gettin some tractor paint so i can paint my underbody, when i came across some leaf hangers wide enough to fit a shock eye in it. im thinkin if i cut to slices through the top of the crossmember hammer the leaf mounts through and weld em up that i might have a pretty strong upper shock mount for only 12 dolars..... what yall think????
04-26-2010, 03:20 PM
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 rebuilt w/ bored TB, banks header, upgraded ignition, 3 row rad, high flow h2o pump, 180* t-stat
get creative in paint and show us what you've macgyvered up...
04-26-2010, 03:34 PM
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ill pick them up this week and put them in and take some pics to show yall..... and tractor pain is the cheepest and strongest paint to put on a trail rig
09-08-2010, 10:47 PM
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Year: 97
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Its funny you should mention this. I just bought that exact kit from TSC tonight. For my new fox shocks. I have been searching around and it seems that the bar-pin bolts and mounts are junk. I'm planning on welding in these things and running with it.
They are made out of I would say right at 1/4" plate. The holes and machine bolts are right at 9/16".
I think I will buy these to accommodate the bolts/mounts for my Fox shocks:
http://www.offroadwarehouse.com/prod...2/113/sfID3/30
I will post pictures of the kit soon.
PoPs96: I never have considered cutting through the top and welding them in that way. That is a really good Idea. I would rather weld from the top anyway. Great Idea.
I was going to get a cut off wheel and completely get rid of the factory "cross-member-uni-body" and weld in 1" square tubing and attach them that way. That way I could get the most travel out of my shocks with out going completely through the floor and welding in hoops. But Pops Idea will be a lot less work.
They are made out of I would say right at 1/4" plate. The holes and machine bolts are right at 9/16".
I think I will buy these to accommodate the bolts/mounts for my Fox shocks:
http://www.offroadwarehouse.com/prod...2/113/sfID3/30
I will post pictures of the kit soon.
PoPs96: I never have considered cutting through the top and welding them in that way. That is a really good Idea. I would rather weld from the top anyway. Great Idea.
I was going to get a cut off wheel and completely get rid of the factory "cross-member-uni-body" and weld in 1" square tubing and attach them that way. That way I could get the most travel out of my shocks with out going completely through the floor and welding in hoops. But Pops Idea will be a lot less work.
Last edited by dhodgee; 09-09-2010 at 10:22 AM.
09-26-2010, 11:23 PM
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Year: 97
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I've done it!
Torched and welded the abortion of a factory bar pin unibody rear shock mount.
Here is what I started with:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Measure twice... Nah. Just start grinding.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Here it sets ready to weld
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Torched and welded the abortion of a factory bar pin unibody rear shock mount.
Here is what I started with:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Measure twice... Nah. Just start grinding.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Here it sets ready to weld
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Last edited by dhodgee; 09-27-2010 at 07:29 AM.
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09-26-2010, 11:25 PM
#8
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ONe side is done. One side needs bolted up! Success.
Here it is welded and painted. The welder went better then I thought considering the different sizes of metal.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
The mount sat farther down then when I first measured... But After a test fit. They are mounted as high as possible. Any higher... I wouldn't have gotten the bolt in.
Here it is welded and painted. The welder went better then I thought considering the different sizes of metal.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
The mount sat farther down then when I first measured... But After a test fit. They are mounted as high as possible. Any higher... I wouldn't have gotten the bolt in.
Last edited by dhodgee; 09-27-2010 at 09:29 AM.
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