traction bar help
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 517
Likes: 0
From: slidell, LA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L inline 6 cylinder
hey guys i just put 3 inch spacers on my 98 2door xj
and now my traction bar wont go back on it doesnt meet back up with the hole that the bolts goes threw to keep it in place
any suggestions
and now my traction bar wont go back on it doesnt meet back up with the hole that the bolts goes threw to keep it in place
any suggestions
Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
From: duncan b.c
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L h/o
u might have to run a aftermarket trac bar , but i had 4.5 lift and had stock trac bar but i just pryed my axle over with a big bar and slid it in but then make sure your axle is even side to side . i eventually went with a aftermarket adjustable one , you'll never go back
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,626
Likes: 1
From: Maryville Tennessee
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
It will go back in,just turn the steering wheel a little at a time one way or the other after you have the wheels back on and on the ground,should line up then
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 337
Likes: 22
From: Earth
Year: 1998
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.9 V8
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 517
Likes: 0
From: slidell, LA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L inline 6 cylinder
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Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
From: Portland OR
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4 liter
I turned the steering wheel till the hole and bar were closely aligned. For me in order to have the hole line up, the wheel needed to be cranked and held in one place while I stuck the bolt through. Can't be in 2 places at the same time I thought.
Crank it a bit look under crank a bit more look under etc...
I had no one to help me and it is really kind of a 2 person deal without being tedious.
Here's my suggestion (what worked for me)for the last adjustment:
I ended up tying a strap on to the steering wheel spoke, wrapped under once in the right direction and ran it through the passenger door to under the rig with me.
Needed to turn the wheel a bit more and hold it there so I pulled the wheel (now drum more or less) to the right spot kept the strap tight as I dragged it under the car and made minor tugs/adjustments till everything lined up.
You may consider getting longer shocks as well since your stock ones will have almost no down travel.
Kind of a PITA but effective and uses readily available supplies.
Just so ya know your axle is gonna be way off to the left now. You need a longer/adjustable track bar or the above mentioned relocation bracket. Iron Rock Offroad makes a beefy SOLID steel double shear bracket adjustable track bar for 189. About 30 bucks more than just an RE bar sans bracket. Worth it for an indestructible bar AND double shear style frame side bracket IMO.
OR just have someone help ya get the axle centered and mark where the track bar sits in the stock bracket and drill a new hole.
Seems around 5/8-11/16" is about ball park if y adon't want the hassle.
Of course if ya don't measure and drill anyways you MAY need a relocation bracket if it doesn't line up.
You may also consider getting longer shocks down the road since the lift has taken away most of their down travel.
Good luck!
Crank it a bit look under crank a bit more look under etc...
I had no one to help me and it is really kind of a 2 person deal without being tedious.
Here's my suggestion (what worked for me)for the last adjustment:
I ended up tying a strap on to the steering wheel spoke, wrapped under once in the right direction and ran it through the passenger door to under the rig with me.
Needed to turn the wheel a bit more and hold it there so I pulled the wheel (now drum more or less) to the right spot kept the strap tight as I dragged it under the car and made minor tugs/adjustments till everything lined up.
You may consider getting longer shocks as well since your stock ones will have almost no down travel.
Kind of a PITA but effective and uses readily available supplies.
Just so ya know your axle is gonna be way off to the left now. You need a longer/adjustable track bar or the above mentioned relocation bracket. Iron Rock Offroad makes a beefy SOLID steel double shear bracket adjustable track bar for 189. About 30 bucks more than just an RE bar sans bracket. Worth it for an indestructible bar AND double shear style frame side bracket IMO.
OR just have someone help ya get the axle centered and mark where the track bar sits in the stock bracket and drill a new hole.
Seems around 5/8-11/16" is about ball park if y adon't want the hassle.
Of course if ya don't measure and drill anyways you MAY need a relocation bracket if it doesn't line up.
You may also consider getting longer shocks down the road since the lift has taken away most of their down travel.
Good luck!
Last edited by Solomon7; Oct 22, 2010 at 11:57 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,626
Likes: 1
From: Maryville Tennessee
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
I turned the steering wheel till the hole and bar were closely aligned. For me in order to have the hole line up, the wheel needed to be cranked and held in one place while I stuck the bolt through. Can't be in 2 places at the same time I thought.
Crank it a bit look under crank a bit more look under etc...
I had no one to help me and it is really kind of a 2 person deal without being tedious.
Here's my suggestion (what worked for me)for the last adjustment:
I ended up tying a strap on to the steering wheel spoke, wrapped under once in the right direction and ran it through the passenger door to under the rig with me.
Needed to turn the wheel a bit more and hold it there so I pulled the wheel (now drum more or less) to the right spot kept the strap tight as I dragged it under the car and made minor tugs/adjustments till everything lined up.
You may consider getting longer shocks as well since your stock ones will have almost no down travel.
Kind of a PITA but effective and uses readily available supplies.
Just so ya know your axle is gonna be way off to the left now. You need a longer/adjustable track bar or the above mentioned relocation bracket. Iron Rock Offroad makes a beefy SOLID steel double shear bracket adjustable track bar for 189. About 30 bucks more than just an RE bar sans bracket. Worth it for an indestructible bar AND double shear style frame side bracket IMO.
OR just have someone help ya get the axle centered and mark where the track bar sits in the stock bracket and drill a new hole.
Seems around 5/8-11/16" is about ball park if y adon't want the hassle.
Of course if ya don't measure and drill anyways you MAY need a relocation bracket if it doesn't line up.
You may also consider getting longer shocks down the road since the lift has taken away most of their down travel.
Good luck!
Crank it a bit look under crank a bit more look under etc...
I had no one to help me and it is really kind of a 2 person deal without being tedious.
Here's my suggestion (what worked for me)for the last adjustment:
I ended up tying a strap on to the steering wheel spoke, wrapped under once in the right direction and ran it through the passenger door to under the rig with me.
Needed to turn the wheel a bit more and hold it there so I pulled the wheel (now drum more or less) to the right spot kept the strap tight as I dragged it under the car and made minor tugs/adjustments till everything lined up.
You may consider getting longer shocks as well since your stock ones will have almost no down travel.
Kind of a PITA but effective and uses readily available supplies.
Just so ya know your axle is gonna be way off to the left now. You need a longer/adjustable track bar or the above mentioned relocation bracket. Iron Rock Offroad makes a beefy SOLID steel double shear bracket adjustable track bar for 189. About 30 bucks more than just an RE bar sans bracket. Worth it for an indestructible bar AND double shear style frame side bracket IMO.
OR just have someone help ya get the axle centered and mark where the track bar sits in the stock bracket and drill a new hole.
Seems around 5/8-11/16" is about ball park if y adon't want the hassle.
Of course if ya don't measure and drill anyways you MAY need a relocation bracket if it doesn't line up.
You may also consider getting longer shocks down the road since the lift has taken away most of their down travel.
Good luck!
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 517
Likes: 0
From: slidell, LA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L inline 6 cylinder
thanks guys for all the help i finished putting the trac bar back on the turning the steering wheel thing really worked
thanks for all the help
thanks for all the help
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